I have a standard drill press, bits, cross-slide vise, digital calipers, center punches, etc. Any other tips for this are greatly appreciated and I'm sure I'll have some more questions as I think some more. As you cut into the metal, the chip curl can be kept from oxidizing right away if a lube or coolant keeps air from it. Most especially when using a fixture, the drill should be ground to try and accomplish chip form that clears itself nicely in twin helixes that toucheth not the bushing.
Drill bushings are likely to see some wear, and remaking the fixture or even pulling one-piece items can be a time-consuming PITA.
I use but two kinds; For short-run or 'throwaway' work, shop-fabbed air or oil hardening stock heat-treated glass-hard. For longer-run production, two-piece wherein one sets a headless sleeve, drills and taps a retainer stud hole for a removable shouldered insert. If you have never done any of this - and I've not yet met anyone born doing it - grab some scrap and make a test of it. 6061 works well enough if you don't have temperature issues or untoward bending stresses on the fixture. Old saying applies - 'systems designed by geniuses so they can be operated by idiots', so take advantage of any asymmetry to make it easy to use properly and impossible to do any other way but the 'right' way.


If you want tips on how to layout accurate holes with manual methods I recommend this book (free ebook), I know it is old, but it does cover precision layout, drilling and boring.
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This jig will assist in drilling holes in tubing and pipe.  It is specifically designed for use in a drill press.
Make this simple tool for your drill-press table and you'll never have to eyeball the angle of a hole again.
If you like this project, please check out more than 1,000 shop-proven paper and downloadable woodworking project plans in the WOOD Store. I will print out a template for the holes on the jig and tape it to the aluminum before making center punch marks. Those were usually store-bought, not shop-made, as the tool and die shops I've worked in kept a decent stock on hand in the sizes most used, made our own only for out-of-stock and odd sizes.
Get 'em tilted - as a C-clamp will try to do and almost always succeed at - and you either wear the drill unevenly or snap it off. Precise layout is important as the part is never quite as good as the fixture, so take the time and do yer best. Reliefs, holes or cutaways may be in order, even pockets where an air nozzle can bump a stuck workpiece out without distorting or marring it.


The V-block bolts to the table and the angled flats hold the material firmly in place so holes can be drilled without center-punching. The base (A) must be longer than your drill-press table so the friction lid supports (one at each end of the jig) clear the table ends. Then, using a T-bevel or an adjustable triangle to set the required angle of the support to the drill bit, tighten the wing nuts to secure the support in place. Mount casting onto fixture plate and position into vise on drill press, aligning drill in chuck. A pair of friction lid supports allow you to angle the support and lock it securely in position. Eine solche Verbindung konnte auch durch Schneiden Sie das Profil unter einem Winkel von 45 Grad vorgenommen werden.



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