Click an auction's title to start bidding or to see more information, a map, and additional pictures of items up for grabs, click the info icon .. Snowboarder Girl Chased By Bear - I Was Singing Rihanna Work And Didn't Know It Was Behind Me! I bought a digital angle gauge on sale at Woodcraft recently and it has REALLY helped with my mitered boxes. If I must make the cut on the saw, I’ll pre cut it just shy of the line, then make a second cut to the line. In most cases I prefer to pre cut the angle on the saw and then clean up the cut on the router table using a 45 degree bit. Here are the three things that I’ve learned to get accurate miter cuts for making boxes. I use s smallish crosscut sled dedicated for 45s and also use a digital guage zeroing from the sled bed near the cutline.
I was just getting ready to post an answer, but I see Sawkerf took the words right out of my mouth! OK I relent, it is three corners, but the nice thing is, it ends on the back left corner which unless you look real close it appears to be completely around the box.
Another way I had thought of doing it was to split the back wall of the box in half when laying out the cuts then join the cut with a vertical spline. One possible problem: You must also ensure your miter gauge slot is parallel to your TS Blade.
With your saw set at 0° on the miter scale, place a board (the wider the better, but your saw must be able to cut the board in a single pass) against the fence, about center of the board. I have plans for a donkey’s ear, miter jack and a 45 degree shooting board that I can scan and post if you like. If you would like any of the aforementioned plans, let me know and I will get them to you one way or another. To the others suggesting a miter saw or table saw I am aware of their capability of cutting nice miters, but my shop is so small I don’t have the space to put either. All good points….Make sure miter is square to bladeMake sure wod does not more while cutting (sandpaper, clamp, whatever)SNEAK UP ON CUT! I find having the ability to fine tune miters rather than relying on a machine to provide perfection is much easier and often much less stressful. Somebody please explain how you sneak up on a miter and have the box sides come out equal length??? DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. The other important factor is to be sure your miter gauge is square to the blade on the tablesaw. Making certain that there will be NO movement of stock after you begin your cut until you finish the cut.


Actually the article I read describing the procedure stated the grain was intact all around the box. The joint would be a straight cut with the board flat on the table and only the four corners would be 45 degree cuts. Both are used with hand-planes and are similar to a shooting board in operation, but are made to fine-tune miters. Grasping the technology of old and relying on skill rather than the precision of a machine is a much better way to build and to look at woodworking in general, IMHO. While a low-angle jack-plane is best for tuning larger miters, a low-angle block-plane, will do the job just fine.
I do use it with a 45 degree miter bit and you are right, it does a fine job of cutting miters. I normally cut the miters in home made miter box or on my table saw and then tune them in with a hand-plane and my 45 degree shooting board. This way if one side is 44 degrees and the other 46 degrees you will still have a clean cut and a 90degree corner. It’s important to have a method of indexing the true angle required for the number of sides of the box.
First of all I take my board and lay out the size for each side, starting at 1 inch from the end and mark each cut leaving one inch at both ends. If it wasn’t for that last inch that is removed in essence it would be all around the box.
In order to not screw up the miter cuts it would be advisable to cut the spline slots in each end of the board before cutting the miters.
Now flip one half of the board over placing the side of the board that was nearest to you against the fence. It will put a glass smooth surface on the end-grain and give you an exact 45 degree miter every time.
Yes, you want your machines tuned well, but you do not want to rely 100% on them to provide you with tight fitting joints.
In reality, even a standard angle block plane with 25 degree bevel, or a #4 or #5 bench plane, will work if needed. I made one serious mistake over the last few months that has used up more than a third of my shop space, I bought enough wood to build a small house.
If you manage to cut one piece too short, you’ll have to either start over, or just cut the opposing side to match. Leaving the two one inch sections is my way of cutting the board and not the article procedure. I am a very unconventional person and do a lot of off the wall things that sometimes work, but more often than not, they don’t. I also use a lot of scraps for box lids from different contrasting woods and those I also use splines to connect the pieces.


Zero gaps.To me box miters have to be perfect as its the first thing people look at when they look at your boxes. Having the ability to fine-tune your joints with simple hand-tools will take your woodworking to another level that machines simply can not give you. And any will be better than relying on your tablesaw to deliver perfect joints 100% of the time.
To cut the miters and keep the grain intact on a 24 to 48 inch board won’t work hence the hand held router and a 90 degree V bit. Even as small as it is I still have ample room and tools to build boxes and clocks as well as other small projects. If any images that appear on the website are in Violation of Copyright Law or if you own copyrights over any of them and do not agree with it being shown here, please also contact us and We will remove the offending information as soon as possible..
Once I have all the cuts complete I turn the board over, tape each joint and turn the board back over, cut off the two 1 inch ends and fold the box up. At the present time I am on a search for Waney wood or live edge with or without bark that has one very irregular edge and 3 basically straight edges, or at least long and wide enough I can square off to use for box lids. If you stop and think about it the only way to get continuous grain is to use one long board, lay out and make your miter cuts at the corner joints and have the joints cut so the box folds to where the grain begins and ends at the left rear corner when facing the front of the box. The bull nose fit perfectly with no modifications, with the number of miter cuts involved it wouldn’t be possible without a high degree of accuracy from the miter saw. I learned a long time ago a person doesn’t need all those large high dollar tools to accomplish the same thing small hand held tools will. Didn’t mean to hijack this thread but we’re all trying to learn something here right? Doing it that way keeps the grain pattern intact all around the box as well as assuring the miter joints mesh together correctly.
Before I glue it up permanently I mix a solution of equal parts water and glue to apply to the end grain. Zero it to the table surface, then on a fully extended TS blade ensure the blade is tilted to exactly 45.0. Like I said, doing it that way keeps the grain pattern intact all around the box and if done correctly the miter joints fit together perfectly. I installed heavy sandpaper on the fence to eliminate any board movement once the cut starts.



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