Lowes seems to have 2 new saws rolling out, this Delta, which I have a strong belief that it will have a LOT in common with the Porter Cable PC270TS. I didn’t look too cloes since I was in a rush, but def looked like table mounted trunnions, and no mention of trunnions on their site.
As far as cabinet mounted trunnions go, some of the modern designs have cheapened them to the point where it’s nearly more of a marketing feature than a functional design advantage.
Wheels might be a problem they look to be on the small size compared to most contractor saws. This Delta is too new and there are too many variables with the new ownership for anyone to make predictions. The fence and angle guides are easy to read and can be dialed in a lot more accurately than other contractor saws I have used.
The base is very sturdy (lots of rubber o floor surface area) and easy to level while the single caster on one side makes it extremely easy to move around when necessary. Whenever I see WATTS… AMPS… I feel they are playing games forcing everyone to utilize Ohms Law!
Tyler,Do you have any problem with the throat plate screws not mounting flush with the throat plate, the display model at lowes did not look good, wanted to know if that was because they did not set it up properly or design flaw.
So, Tyler and Ice… Do you think you made a good choice in choosing the Delta over the Ridgid? OK… I now have about 100 pictures of all aspects of the 36-725 on display at my local Lowes, including a few up into the cabinet from below and detailed shots of the fence, rails, miter slots, pauls, riving knife, and guard. I did notice that the blade deflects very slightly toward the fence and back again while raising it up out of the table, and deflects about a 64th at full height (within the last quarter turn) not an issue for actually USING the saw, just something I noticed at the store… Have video if interested. Thanks for the Pics… do you have any more detailed pics of the how the fence and rails work? Hey Rick, Yes, I noticed that as well, at the very top end of the vertical travel the insert does rise causing the level to move as well.
On the lowes website it says that they will match % off coupons so I took the 25% off coupon to the check out told them their ” lowes website” website said they matched and the checkout gal called a supervisor and they looked to see that the coupon was legit and rung me up! If a competitor is offering a percent off discount, we’ll match the final net price the competitor is offering. I know there are plenty of naysayers, but as a contractor that saw could quickly pay for itself. Looks like the blade should be tilted a tad more to the Right to fill the Light gap at bottom. I’ve seen some posts about the foot pedal for raising the saw is to be on the left side. I know I have yet to post a project but I am working on several with what time I have… BUT I just talked the wife into letting me pick one of these 36-725 tonight! Forgive me if I have missed it- post is long – has anyone REPLACED the stamped metal portions with a single piece? Hi Tss1065 – regarding adjusting your blade to the arbor slot, Delta rep says it was not designed to be adjusted.
I’m wondering if you could elongate or ream out the holes on the trunnion bracket to allow for more adjustment if necessary. I hope it is OK with you, I posted a link to your writing in a comment at the bottom of my review of this saw because the alignment question was asked and I could only answer how we did it smacking the trunnion around. I suppose I could have used the table saw fence, but wanted a split type fence without much fuss.


I purchased the Delta 36-725 about three weeks ago and it was pretty much set right out of the box. Well it’s taken me a while (been busy) but I finally got my Delta 36-725 table saw put together and I have to say that I am most impressed.
If you have this saw and want to use a thin kerf blade, according to the customer service rep.
For full disclosure, I don’t OWN this saw, I only played with it in the store (I have a Dewalt DWE7491RS due to my space constraints, but regularly frequent other shops and use an older Delta Unisaw, or Sawstops).
Well, I Pulled the trigger yesterday and bought the Delta 36-725, with my military discount, out the door $548.00 (including sales tax). But if it doesn’t have the alignment issue of the riidgid, then I think I might be sold. I have an old old ryobi 10 table saw and it has seen better days, and needless to say I was in Lowes and saw the 36-725. Historically Delta has produced excellent saws and beginning with the Unifence then Biesemeyer acquisition their fences have been 2nd to none. The fence is solid and I didn’t detect any flex just pushing on it, it glides smoothly and locks securely.
I have a smaller portable saw and a big old Unisaw, but the saw posted occupies a legitimate niche between the two. As a professional carpenter, my opinion is that Delta probably has a good chance of success, with their target market, with this product. Re-stick the new insert face up to the old one so all your holes will be in the right place.
You can take a walk on the wild side and free hand route your ears out without drawing little igloos, but thats just crazy talk. So my fat head went opposite of the destructions, and ended up with the pedal on the right.
I’m thinking of making a couple of inserts and was pondering as to what material to use. I was worried since it’s mainly plastic that it would get hot and melt while being routed and planed and end up with crappy edges. There are no instructions for aligning the blade to the miter slot if that’s the alignment being asked about.
When looking I just noticed that Delta has revived the Homecraft brand, maybe it will be rebranded and put there.
Conventional wisdom would prefer a metal, but I can’t think of why a plastic skin would be necessarily be inferior (on a contractor saw). No personal experience with the T2 (which this fence should be based on) but by all reports it is an accurate and reliable fence.
The bad news is they don’t have one in stock they said it would be on the next truck! Here the square does not move, nor does the insert, only the square to blade gap distance changes. I think too many people have been trying, which would explain the eyerolls I recieved when I tried.
The fiddly part was routing out for the leveling screws and where the motor housing and blade lock button hit the underside of the insert when the blade is fully raised.
Even though the router has a vacuum hookup (Coming out under of table), I’m going have to do something to catch the chips coming off the bit at the top.


I am on this site more than once a day and thanks to all who have reached out and to all that have responded so far. Hopefully Delta will update the owner’s manual soon so we can all do it the easy way instead of the old fashioned way.
I got excited and came home to research it since I though I’d read on every saw in the price range. The Rigid is a pretty good saw for the money but with the alignment issues I would look hard at alternatives. When I say right side, I mean your right when standing in front of the saw and looking at it. We cracked the trunnion bolts (just crack them-don’t loosten them) then tapped them with a piece of wood and hammer. It has storage for the fence and miter gauge when not in use that is much improved over my 90’s Delta.
Feel free (like a bird now) to remove some of the bottom of your insert to gain your full blade height back. Personally I have no problem reaching the pedal with it being under the long side of the rip fence rails.
One bracket screwed to under edge of the router table that mates with the saw extension wing.
The split rail is not a problem and lined up perfectly without an bump moving the fence across it. It wasn’t that difficult until we retightened the bolts only to find that tightening the bolts moved the blade again. I currently use a Delta T2 fence, so I’d have no problems taking it off the craftsman, and slapping it on this new Delta saw- negating the split front rail. The blade guard is better than my 90’s model, has a riving knife and anti-kickback pawls. But as I said before the pedal can be placed on either side based on your personal preference. Fine tuned the inset later by scraping the top of the strips to get the router to sit flush with the table top. That end of the router table is perfectly level with the cast iron saw table (sometimes you just luck out).
I did get down on a knee look up inside from the bottom but the dust collection hood covered most of the innards. The only non-positive I found is the throat plate is not held down by anything except part that slides between the table and the throat plate. One of the things I did change was to put the third wheel lift on the left side instead of the right. So far it does look to be a good saw, at least for what I need and beats the hell out of my old Craftsman 315 model.



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