Here is the dust collector under the stairs, I have since upgraded to a top filter and have removed those dusty bags.
CF this might not be exactly what you're looking for but it could be done without the long tables on either side.
Another suggestion - a solid core door makes a wonderful table - use full length or cut to needed size.
1: Make a separate fence about as wide as the saw itself that can be adjusted and replaced. We have one of the Original Saws in a shop with 10 cabinetmakers - it is a very heavy duty machine, nicely made, and seems to stay in adjustment. The comments below were added after this Forum discussion was archived as a Knowledge Base article (add your comment). My Dad bought a Dewalt in '64 and has adjusted it twice, once when he bought it and once when we moved in '69.
As far as setup goes, I can't agree with "squaring the fence to the arm," in fact, I'm not real sure how the heck you'd even do that.
I've operated a Craftsman 10" cast-iron RAS since I bought it new in 1974 and it?s worked like a charm. Most people I have met simply do not know how, or do not want to take the time to properly make their radial arm saws accurate.
I would suggest getting a copy of "How to Master the Radial Arm Saw" by the late Wallace Kunkle.
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If he gets the saw as close as he can to cutting square to the table and fence and builds some adjustability into the fence, he can do alright. And yes, if your stop is working off the fence, be sure it is attached to table and will not shift as you tap your parts against the stop, thus shifting the entire fence and ending up with a cut that is too long. I took my time setting it up on a bench around 30 ft long that's bumped out wider where the saw is. It has replaceable inserts in the table (for tearout reduction) and fence (to register the cut quickly).
You never have to lift your material a second time after it is ripped, and that Jet Xacta fence for a length stop looks tough. If your fence is curved or wavy, you will never get the arm square because one cannot generate a 90 degree angle from a curved surface. Only after the fence is flat and straight for its entire length will you succeed in squaring the arm up to it.


When set up properly, they are incalculably valuable for cross cutting squarely, running dados squarely (that you can see while you cut), and making compound angle cuts. My guess at the reason for all this is that there are a ton of later model Craftsman saws out there, poorly set up.
I had a "high end" 80's vintage Craftsman and ended up giving it away after a year or two of fooling with it. Yes, like all RAS's it needed careful adjustment to set it up initially and regular TLC to keep it that way.
The older Dewalts and Deltas have massive cast iron arms that were aged before finishing, and the motors run on purpose made ball bearings. It is specific to the earlier DeWalt saws, but provides in depth instructions for table and saw setup. The more information you provide with your question, the better your chances are of receiving responses.
By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. I would also suggest cutting rough lengths on it and getting a good miter saw for finish cuts.
And last, a groove where fence and tables contact will help reduce sawdust and small things from getting behind the parts you are about to cut, causing unsquareness. I built a 16' long bench that the saw sits in and I adjust the saw to the table - not the other way around. If the fence is not perfectly flat and straight, it will produce the very problem you have. You may then use any of the several good procedures already mentioned by others to finish squaring the arm to your now flat and straight fence. Even properly set up, these saws have trouble with consistency due to poor adjustment systems and arms made from stamped sheet metal beams, vice the robust adjustment mechanisms and cast arms you find on older Craftsmans, Dewalts and Deltas. This is particularly critical if you're going to cut dadoes with it, which I do because it's not a blind cut, like it is on a tablesaw. In my opinion, however, most if not all complaints about RAS use stem from improper set-up or from saws that need re-adjusting.
Additionally, it provides excellent instructions on how to safely make all of the cuts the saw was designed for. As metal scrap becomes available I will add a door to the planer area, a panel to the trash can pullout and a 4" tall drawer between the planer lift arms. Any ideas on how he can set this saw up with a good fence that produces accurate repeatability and is more consistently square?
The problem with the setup on the RAS is that the fence is almost always in some way separate from the saw itself. There are screws that mount the table to the under rails - loosen these enough to shift the table to the blade travel.
If you follow the manual closely and remove all looseness in column (adjustable screws), then it will remain quite true. I've readjusted it once in 3 years when I had a kickback and everything went down the toilet. I then attached my 2x4 rail system with angle iron that's built for shelving - predrilled with holes and slots. I suggest that you joint the back edge of your table - the one the fence rests against and any other edges which may come into contact with the fence.


Also, your fence should be held in the saw table's clamping feature, not fixed, that way you can remove it and slip in a 45 jig. If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
However, it is always wise and basically necessary to check squareness to fence with square before making important cuts, and the cut part itself with square (using the same edge as was against fence) - you'll learn what it tends to do after it's moved from angle to angle and such - kind of like knowing how to start some old car that requires one tap on the gas before cranking.
Contact Maya for adjustable stop considerations - not cheap, but have several models, many great for gang cutting. I used threaded inserts to bolt down the fence, which give me adjustment in the fence to fine tune for square. You can't compare a home shop tool or an abused and worn tool with a new industrial grade tool. If it's half of a one-car garage and you make a lot of small stuff, I'd rather have a radial arm saw because it sits against a wall as opposed to the middle of the floor and rips small pieces just fine. It's often quicker than moving the arm and allows you to use a spacer in the table so you can reposition the fence to the back for wide cuts.
Only once in over 30 years did I ever have a piece of wood being ripped caught by the blade and get fired back towards the in-feed side of the table.
Delta should be able to send you the manual for your model or one similar, which will illustrate the steps involved.
The key to the RAS is using the right blade, proper mounting of the saw to a good solid long table, and building the adjustment for tilt back to front and side to side into the table.
The RAS has pretty much replaced my table saw, except when I need to make a new sacrificial cover for the RAS table (go figure). I use a fair amount of rough-sawn mahogany for projects and I can plane, chop and dump the dust without leaving one spot.
I use a framing square off the back edge of the table, mark a tooth on the blade, and tap it (the table) until I just touch that tooth full in and full out on the arm travel.
Once that is done, you can extend the fence using a string or long straight edge for alignment.
I can now hear the moans and see the wide open eyes at the suggestion of ripping with a RAS. Well, no, a tablesaw does that better, but does that mean a tablesaw is a superior tool overall? The bottom line is to buy a good saw, and set it up in accordance with the manufacturers instructions. I rip with my RAS all the time, and never have a problem, but I prefer to rip on a band saw, as the blade is traveling dead perpendicular to the table. I intentionally positioned the table saw 12' from the rear wall (8' panel + 2' of machinery on the rear wall + 2' standing space) and the chop saw 16' from the rear wall so it wouldn't interfere with a panel cross cut.
My bench is not anchored to the wall because of the size and weight but if doing it as a stand alone I'd probably bolt it to the wall. Better than plywood factory is fine, because I darned sure am not going to square sheet goods before I cut them.



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