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This 12 in., 80 tooth alternate top bevel design circular saw blade is specially engineered for keen cutting and enduring performance.
Northern Tool + Equipment, Generators, pressure washers, air compressors, power tools, trailers, heaters, stoves, food processing, go karts, and more! In-Line Saw – These are the most common types of circular saws and tend to be the least expensive. Make sure your blade is sharp and not dull.  Dull blades tend to heat up more which causes more wear on your tools and more chances to bind.
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This portable circular saw blade sharpener allows any craftsman to sharpen multiple blades in one sitting! Your use of this website constitutes acknowledgement and acceptance of our Terms & Conditions. TCT Circular SAW BladesOur TCT Circular SAW Blades use C3, C2 and C4 (YG8, YC1, ) carbide tipped progress by the auto and laser machine, it is designed for cutting hard and soft wood, Plywood, Bamboo, shaving board, joinery panel, Aluminum, aluminum alloy, copper, Brass, Lead and Plastics etc. Constructed of a die cast aluminum base and indexing arm, this saw blade sharpener is durable but lightweight. If you don't see the specific product you are looking for, please contact our Customer Service Department for assistance. Features include a motor block that tilts 25 degrees left and right to adjust for different blade tooth configurations.
From reading these, it seems that you have to be a master machinist to even have a chance to make it work.
A narrow kerf provides specially engineered body slots to dissipate heat for improved cutting performance. This saw blade sharpener is great for any metal or wood worker that wants to make sure their circular saw blades last!

Two things changed my mind.First, I recently had some engineered wood flooring installed by a pro at my house. Since I have my woodworking shop in the garage, the installer asked if he could use my saws. By the time I got back to my shop, two of my good blades were shot (a 12-inch 96-teeth and a 10-inch 50-teeth). 24T Mini Table Circular Saw Blade:this carbide blade is so much better than the steel blade that came with the unit. I tried to hone them, but they were too far gone.I was even less happy when I was told my my local sharpening shop that it would cost almost $60 to sharpen these two blades ($20 for the 10-inch and $34 for the 12-inch, plus tax). Diameter (metric): 110, 125, 150, 180, 185, 200, 230, 250, 255, 275, 300, 350, 400, 450, 500 mm etc. Worked fine, but after a hundred cuts or so I can tell the blade is not cutting as nicely as it was when I first got it.
Thanks to him for this great video.So I took my chance (not much risk for $32 after using a 20% supercoupon), and I am delighted. It took me half an hour to go through the basic adjustments and set-up the sharpener as shown on the video, and less than that to sharpen the first blade. After looking closely at the blade, I saw that the teeth faces were clean but the edges still ragged. This time I changed my method and used the click-stop to pre-position the blade, then simply rotated the teeth into the diamond wheel for 2-3 seconds (instead of using the click-stop and bringing the diamond wheel into the tooth). I later honed the teeth with a small diamond file to eliminate some of the roughness created by the coarse diamond blade, but that did not really improve the cut quality, so I would not worry about it (and the diamond blade will get finer as it wears). I then went on to my expensive 96-teeth blade, and it came out perfect, with no scoring at all on the cuts.
If you are interested in our products, Please kindly sent us your inquiry in full range, we will make offer to you as soon as possible. Overall, it is a lot simpler to initially set-up than most power woodworking tools, and the setup required to adjust the grinding angles for each blade are simple to do and would be required even with the most expensive professional sharpeners.

Only after looking at the box at a local HF store did I determine it was also capable of sharpening carbide. I waited for a sale price and could not wait to get my sharpener home to try out.Yes, the machine is a bear to set up for a particular blade, but once you get everything in order, the sharpening part goes fairly quickly. I picked out a pretty dull 80T 10" blade and, using the carbide wheel, put a nice new surface on each tooth. I even wire wheeled the blade beforehand to remove the built-up sawdust resin that accumulates on a used blade.
Instead of each tooth surface being smoothly polished as it was when new, the newly sharpened surface looked like it had been sharpened with 80 grit sandpaper. I realize it was finer than that, but keep in mind I was looking at it under magnification.
Bottom line is that the sharpener did not work on carbide blades as I had expected and I packed it up and returned it a few days later.
One would be to make the set-up a simpler process and make it so that you can dial in specific angles instead of trying to eyeball it and then tighten up some screw. Second, and more importantly, would be to have a diamond wheel with a much finer grit to actually polish the carbide instead of coarsely grind it. You can't do a good job using just one stone.I had to give this sharpener only one star because I found it totally useless. I marked the front of each tooth with a marker to tell if I was sharpening the tooth evenly and completely. I next sharpened 3 12" carbide toothed compound table saw blades worth about $40 each.

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