GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 3DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIR BASICS 3-1(a) "GREEN" PLUGSDON'T use them on refrigerators. GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 2TROUBLESHOOTING TOOLS AND SAFETYTIPS AND TRICKSLets talk aluminum foil for a minute.
The different designs are differentiated by being a different "model" or "series." Confusing the issue even more, some manufacturers "private label" their machines for large department stores. The Original Pink Box Drill is the best cordless drillA designed for smaller hands and light duty tasks.
Such as Sears' Kenmore and Montgomery Ward's Signature machines. Check the following list to determine if you have one of these "cross-branded" machines.
Its case may be powder-puff pink, but inside it is still a substantial 18-volt Lithium-ionA battery-powered drill.This is not a drill meant for heavy, continuous use.
But even in an oven with natural convection, it can mess up airflow and cooking and even cause burners to malfunction.
It is marketed for women who want to fill out their home toolbox for this-and-that repairs, such as installing curtain rods, reattaching seat bottoms on chairs, or tightening pot handles in the kitchen. Not only that, but you need a drill that will hold a charge as long as possible and fits comfortably in your hand.With all of the cordless drill choices available today, it can be a bit overwhelming trying to compare and decide between the various models, features, and prices on drills.
If you simply must line the bottom of your oven with foil, at least poke holes in it where there are holes in the oven floor.
Good news for you, we're here to make this decision as easy as possible for you!Let's take a look at the best cordless drills and compare their most important features.Easily compare voltage, weight, speed, price, and chuck of the most popular cordless drills. They're there for a reason.2-1 BASIC REPAIR AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS1) When working on gas cooking equipment, if you've disconnected a gas pipe to replace a valve or other component, always test the pipe joint for leaks when you reassemble it. This drill is not only externally cute, but is the best cordless drill in this niche inside its pink body.Men may even consider buying the Original Pink Box Drill as a way to deter other workers from a€?borrowinga€? their tools at the jobsite.
With our sortable guide below, the time consuming task of collecting all of this data has been done for you. You can do this by coating the joint with a solution of liquid soap and water and looking for bubbles. You can find them in the Yellow Pages under the following headings: APPLIANCES, HOUSEHOLD, MAJORAPPLIANCES, PARTS AND SUPPLIESREFRIGERATORS, DOMESTICAPPLIANCES, HOUSEHOLD, REPAIR AND SERVICECall a few of them and ask if they are a repair service, or if they sell parts, or both.
Compare a few drills, then just click on the name or image of the drill to dig in a bit deeper, and read the customer reviews and get the latest deal. Apply it with a brush to make sure you coat the joint thoroughly, and use a mirror to look at the back side of the joint if necessary. Your appliance parts dealer has gas leak testing solution, with a brush built into the cap, made specifically for this purpose. 2) Always de-energize (pull the plug or trip the breaker on) any oven that you're disassembling. If you need to re-energize the oven to perform a test, make sure any bare wires or terminals are taped or insulated. Energize the unit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then disconnect the power again. 3) If this manual advocates replacing the part, REPLACE IT!! The compact size helps make this the topA cordless drill forA getting into spaces between joists for installing electrical boxes, for example, or drilling holes for cabling. The exact height of the desk will fluctuate depending on how tightly you’re able to screw the pipes to the couplings, as well as the thickness of the boards if you choose a different type of table top.View in galleryView in galleryGood luck making your own Standing Desk! These machines were sold as GE, Hotpoint, and "private-labelled" as JC Penney and Penncrest brands. In 1995, GE redesigned their dryers. Bosch says this two-step speed feature provides twice any competitor’sA speed for screw driving and drilling.
They'll tell you it's too complicated, then in the same breath, "guide" you to their service department. Knowing the different features of a cordless drill and why they are important is essential to helping you decide between models. If you don’t know what the features do or why they are important, then how can you compare them?POWERThe power of your cordless drill will have the largest impact on how fast and well your drill will work.
There is a reason that it stopped - you can bet on it - and if you get it going and re-install it, you are running a very high risk that it will fail again.
The Bosch warranty provides a three-year protection plan: full replacement of the drill in the first year, replacement of the battery for two years, and free repair in years two and three. WCI's machines were sold under these original brand names, as well as Westinghouse and White-Westinghouse brands. In the '90's, WCI was bought by Swedish giant Electrolux, who changed the company name back to the Frigidaire Home Products Company. The voltage of the battery is what determines your drill’s power, and the voltages range from about 6 volts all the way up to 36 volts.
If they genuinely try to help you fix it yourself and you find that you can't fix the problem, they may be a really good place to look for service. We recommend buying a drill with a battery that is between 9 volts and 18 volts for general home repair, and a drill that is between 18 volts and 36 volts for construction professionals who need a lot more power and are going to use their drill for much heavier uses. The Festool T 12+3 Li-Ion Cordless Drill Set is the best cordless drill in this size.Interchangeable chucks set this drill apart.A Offset drilling and driving? Think about it if they sold you this book, then they're genuinely interested in helping do-it-yourselfers!When you go into the store, have ready your make, model and serial number from the nameplate of the fridge (not from some sticker inside the fridge). Another thing to consider is that drills with higher voltages are heavier, making them a bit harder to hold for an extended time.CHUCK SIZEThe chuck size is the width of the part that holds the drill bits or screwdriver heads in place. Replace the part. 4) Always replace the green (ground) leads when you remove an electrical component. A low speed is considered 300 to 400 rpm and a fast speed is considered 1,200 to 1,500 rpm.
This will be an incomplete model number, but it is better than nothing and it should be good enough to get most parts with. If all else fails, check the original papers that came with your fridge when it was new. Many drills have the capability to switch between slow and fast speed which makes them great for a wide variety of uses. They have continued to manufacture these "Herrin" machines as Maytag "Performa" models and high-end Crosley brand machines, but they have gone through a LOT of evolution. They should contain the model number SOMEWHERE. If you have absolutely NO information about the fridge anywhere, make sure you bring your old part to the parts store with you. Slow speeds are great for screwing in screws, and high speeds are great for drilling.THE BATTERYThe best batteries for a cordless drill are high-capacity lithium-ion batteries.
Wear gloves, and be careful not to cut your hands! 6) If you have diagnosed a certain part to be bad, but you cannot figure out how to remove it, sometimes it helps to get the new part and examine it for mounting holes or other clues as to how it may be mounted. 7) When testing for a 110 volt power supply from a wall outlet, you can plug in a small appliance such as a shaver or blow dryer.
This shaves even more depth off the tool and you can reach into tight spaces for repetitive work, so long as you are using hexagonal shank bits.Weight a MinuteThe Festool weighs just over three pounds. These batteries do add a bit to the price tag, but when you consider that you’ll get 4 times as much drilling time as a standard battery. You can find them in the yellow pages under the following headings:APPLIANCES, HOUSEHOLD, MAJORAPPLIANCES, PARTS AND SUPPLIESREFRIGERATORS, DOMESTICAPPLIANCES, HOUSEHOLD, REPAIR AND SERVICECall a few of them and ask if they are a repair service, or if they sell parts, or both. Battery charges often take hours to recharge a drill battery, so make sure that you have at least one extra so you can rotate them. If you're testing for 220 volt power you need to use the VOM. 8) When splicing wires in an oven, remember that you're dealing with high temperatures.
When dialed below 10, drill speed is reduced.The electronic clutch gives an audible signal to let you know the clutch is engaged. A smart charger charges faster and it also avoids overcharging by slowing down as the battery charge gets full.
Your parts dealer has high-temp connections, porcelain wire nuts and fiberglass-insulated wire for this purpose. I want to impress upon you something really important. In drill mode the tool automatically overrides the clutch, saving wear and tear and providing maximum torque: 300 inch-pounds in steel or 220 inch-pounds in wood. The brushless motor produces less heat and less motor wear than brush motors.Festool FinesseFestool has a motto, a€?Faster, Easier and Smarter,a€? and this tool is evidence of that philosophy.
However, you don't want to badger them with TOO many questions, so know your basics before you start asking questions. Some parts houses may offer service, too.
This is great for masonry drilling, but also makes drilling with Forstner bits or auger bits easy. It's unpleasant, but unless exposure is more than a second or so, the only harm it usually does is to tick you off pretty good. They'll tell you it's too complicated, then in the same breath "guide" you to their service department. An onboard LED light helps you see your target.Get a GripMilwaukee put a carbide-jawed ratcheting metal chuck on the hammer drill.
They should contain the model number somewhere. In any case, and especially if you have absolutely NO information about your dryer anywhere, make sure you bring your old part to the parts store with you. It is a long, stiff-bristled brush especially made for knocking out massive wads of dust from your condenser grille. At slightly over five pounds, this big drillA takes full advantage of composite plastic housing to shed weight.What You GetThe carrying case holds the hammer drill, side handle, two 18-volt rechargeable batteries, and the charger.
I have seen jury-rigged bottle brushes and vacuums used, neither of which clean sufficiently.
However, you don't want to badger them with too many questions, so know your basics before you start asking questions. Some parts houses may offer service, too. It's true that diagnosing and repairing electrical circuits requires a bit more care than most operations, due to the danger of getting shocked.
Remember the rule in section 3-4 (1); while you are working on a circuit, energize the circuit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then take the power back off it to perform the repair. If they genuinely try to help you fix it yourself, and you find that you're unable to, they may be the best place to look for service.


An inexpensive one will suffice, as long as it has both "AC Voltage" and "Resistance" (i.e. You will only need to be able to set the VOM onto the right scale, touch the test leads to the right place and read the meter. In using the VOM (Volt-Ohm Meter) for our purposes, the two test leads are always plugged into the "+" and "-" holes on the VOM. On some models, you will also need the lot number to get the right part, so if there is one on the nameplate, write that down, too.2-3 TOOLS (Figure 2-A)Most of the tools that you might need are shown below.
For example, if there's a 50 setting and a 250 setting on the VAC dial, use the 250 scale, because 250 is the lowest setting over 120 volts. Touch the two test leads to the two metal contacts of a live power source, like a wall outlet or the terminals of the motor that you're testing for voltage.
It's true that diagnosing and repairing electrical circuits requires a bit more care than most operations, due to the danger of getting shocked. It's derived from the word "continuous." In an electrical circuit, electricity has to flow from a power source back to that power source. Remember the rule in section 1-5 (1); while you are working on a circuit, energize the circuit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then take the power back off it to perform the repair. It should peg the meter all the way on the right side of the scale, towards "0" on the meter's "resistance" scale.
If the meter does not read zero resistance, adjust the thumbwheel on the front of the VOM until it does read zero.
When testing 220 volt circuits (usually in electric dryers) make sure you always follow the precautions in rule 1 of section 1-5!Figure B-4: Testing Voltage1-4(b) TESTING FOR CONTINUITY (Figure B-5)Don't let the word "continuity" scare you. If the heater's leads are still connected to something, you may get a reading through that something. It's derived from the word "continuous." In an electrical circuit, electricity has to flow from a power source back to that power source.
If there is still live power on the item you're testing for continuity, you will burn out your VOM in microseconds and possibly shock yourself. Touch the two test leads to the two bare wire ends or terminals of the heater. You can touch the ends of the wires and test leads with your hands if necessary to get better contact.
Remember the rule in section 2-1; while you are working on a circuit, energize the circuit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then take the power back off it to perform the repair. If there is GOOD continuity, the meter will move toward the right side of the scaleand steady on a reading. You will only need to be able to set the VOM onto the right scale, touch the test leads to the right place and read the meter.In using the VOM (Volt-Ohm Meter) for our purposes, the two test leads are always plugged into the "+" and "-" holes on the VOM. If the meter does not read zero resistance, adjust the thumbwheel on the front of the VOM until it does read zero. If the meter moves only very little and stays towards the left side of the scale, that's BAD continuity; the heater is no good.
In a glass-tube or bare-element heater, you may be able to see the physical break in the heater element, just like you can in some light bulbs. If you are testing a switch or a thermostat, you will show little or no resistance (good continuity) when the switch or thermostat is closed, and NO continuity when the switch is open.
If you do not, the switch is bad.3-3(c) AMMETERSAmmeters are a little bit more complex to explain without going into a lot of electrical theory. If you own an ammeter, you probably already know how to use it. If you don't, don't get one. If there is GOOD continuity, the meter will move toward the right side of the scale and steady on a reading.
This is the resistance reading and it doesn't concern us; we only care that we show good continuity. The greater the current that's flowing through a wire, the greater the magnetic field it produces around the wire.
The ammeter simply measures this magnetic field, and thus the amount of current, flowing through the wire.
If you do not, the switch is bad.   1-4(c) AMMETERSAmmeters are a little bit more complex to explain without going into a lot of electrical theory. To determine continuity, for our purposes, we can simply isolate the component that we're testing (so we do not accidentally measure the current going through any other components) and see if there's any current flow. To use your ammeter, first make sure that it's on an appropriate scale (0 to 10 or 20 amps will do). It should peg the meter all the way on the right side of the scale, towards "0" on the meter's "resistance" or "ohms" scale. If the meter does not read zero ohms, adjust the thumbwheel on the front of the VOM until it does read zero. If the ignitor's leads are still connected to something, you may get a reading through that something.
Turn the "energy saver" switch to the "economy" position to shut off the anti-sweat mullion heaters (See section 4-1.) Close the refrigerator door to make sure the lights are off. The greater the current that's flowing through a wire, the greater the density of the magnetic field, or flux, it produces aroundthe wire. The ammeter simply measures the density of this flux, and thus the amount of current, flowing through the wire.
To determine continuity, for our purposes, we can simply isolate the component that we're testing (so we do not accidentally measure the cur rent going through any other components) and see if there's any current flow. To use your ammeter, first make sure that it's on an appropriate scale (0 to 10 or 20 amps will do). There may still be a tiny mullion heater energized in the butter conditioner or on the defrost drain pan, but the current that these heaters draw is negligible for our purposes (less than an amp).
If you don't, the defrost heater or terminating thermostat is probably defective.3-4 BASIC REPAIR AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS1) Always de-energize (pull the plug or trip the breaker on) any refrigerator that you're disassembling. If you need to re-energize the dryer to perform a test, make sure any bare wires or terminals are taped or insulated.
If you need to re-energize the refrigerator to perform a test, make sure any bare wires or terminals are taped or insulated. If you do not, the switch is bad. 2-4(c) AMMETERSAmmeters are a little bit more complex to explain without going into a lot of electrical theory.
Energize the unit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then disconnect the power again. I want to impress upon you something really important. Energize the unit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then disconnect the power again. 2) NEVER EVER chip or dig out ice from around the evaporator with a sharp instrument or knife. You WILL PROBABLY puncture the evaporator and you WILL PROBABLY end up buying a new refrigerator. If you use a blow dryer, take care not to get water in it and shock yourself.Better yet, if you have the time and patience, leave the fridge open for a few hours and let the ice melt naturally. You can remove large, loose chunks of ice in the evaporator compartment by hand, but make sure there aren't any electrical wires frozen into the chunks of ice before you start pulling them. 3) Always re-install any removed duck seal, heat shields, styrofoam insulation, or panels that you remove to access anything. It's unpleasant, but unless exposure is more than a second or so, the only harm it usually does is to tick you off pretty good.However, 220 VOLTS CAN KNOCK YOU OFF YOUR FEET. They're there for a reason. 4) You may need to empty your fridge or freezer for an operation. If you do not have another fridge (or a friend with one) to keep your food in, you can generally get by with an ice chest or a cardboard box insulated with towels for a short time. Never re-freeze meats; if they've already thawed, cook them and use them later. 5) If this manual advocates replacing a part, REPLACE IT!! If the meter shows any reading at all, something in the oven is using power.2-5 WIRING DIAGRAMSometimes you need to read a wiring diagram, to make sure you are not forgetting to check something.
There is a reason that it stopped you can bet on it and if you get it going and re-install it, you are running a very high risk that it will stop again. And if you get it going and re-install it, you are running a very high risk that it will stop again. The symbols used to represent each component are pretty universal. Wire colors are abbreviated and shown next to each wire. Replace the part. 6) Refrigerator defrost problems may take a week or more to reappear if you don't fix the problem the first time. That's how long it will take the evaporator to build up enough frost to block the airflow again.
Replace the part. 3) If you must lay the dryer over on its side, front or back, first make sure that you are not going to break anything off, such as a gas valve. After fixing a defrost problem, keep an eye out for signs of a recurrence for at least a week.
GR or GN are green, GY is gray.A wire color with a dash or a slash means --- with a --- stripe.
Lay an old blanket on the floor to protect the floor and the finish of the dryer. 4) Always replace the green (ground) leads when you remove an electrical component. The sooner you catch it, the less ice you'll have to melt. 7) You may stop the compressor from running using the defrost timer or cold control, by cutting off the power to the fridge, or simply by pulling the plug out of the wall. However, if you try to restart it within a few minutes, it may not start; you may hear buzzing and clicking noises.
And NEVER EVER remove the third (ground) prong in the main power plug! 5) When opening the dryer cabinet or console, remember that the sheet metal parts are have very sharp edges. In some wiring diagrams, wiring and switches inside a timer or other switchblocks are drawn with lines that are thicker than the rest of the wiring. The small white circles all over the diagram are terminals. Wear gloves, and be careful not to cut your hands! 6) When testing for your power supply from a wall outlet, plug in a small appliance such as a shaver or blow dryer.
If the system has not had enough time for the pressure within to equalize, there will be too much back pressure in the system for the compressor motor to overcome when trying to start. These are places where you can disconnect the wire from the component for testing purposes. Simply remove the power from the compressor for a few more minutes until the compressor will restart. 8) Do not lubricate any of the timers or motors mentioned in this manual. If two wires cross on the diagram without a black dot, they are not connected. Switches may be numbered or lettered.


Usually the terminals on the outside of the timer or switch are stamped or printed with markings that you will see on the wiring diagram. To test a switch, mark and disconnect all the wires. In a cold environment, oil will become more viscous and increasefriction, rather than decrease it. For example, in figure 2-F, if you want to test the door switch, take power off the machine, disconnect the wires from it and connect one test lead to COM and one to NC.
If it does, you know that contact inside the switch is good. Remember that for something to be energized, it must make a complete electrical circuit. You must be able to trace the path that the electricity will take, FROM the wall outlet back TO the wall outlet.
In this simplified circuit diagram, notice that only the heating elements operate on 220 volts.
Since the locking mechanism is interlocked with the heating circuit, the oven will not reach cleaning temperature either.Let's start at the lock motor and find out which switches feed electricity to it. If they genuinely try to help you fix it yourself and you find that you can't fix the problem, they may be a really good place to look for service. Think about it if they sold you this book, then they're genuinely interested in helping do-it-yourselfers!When you go into the store, have ready your make, model and serial number from the nameplate of the fridge (not from some sticker inside the fridge). Tracing the other lock motor lead, we first end up at the "C" terminal of the 4-position selector switch. Looking at the switch for the chart, the "C" to "LM" contacts are closed when the "clean" button is depressed on the switch. Power then leaves the thermostat through the "5" terminal, so we need to check for continuity between terminals "5" and "6" of the thermostat. Since it is a thermostatic switch, only heat will open the switch, so we only need to test it for continuity. They are shown in the diagram in their "normal state." So continuing with our circuit, if the locking motor is not turning, you need to check switch "B" for continuity between the "COM" and "NC" terminals. If there is no continuity, it might mean the switch is bad. It might also mean that the switch was not returned to its "normal" state the last time it was activated!You need to examine the switch carefully to determine what the problem is. If the locking motor stopped turning before the switch unlocked, you've got other problems. You will need to trace other circuits in the diagram to figure out what. From the "COM" terminal of switch "B," the circuit goes back through the door switch to L1. The door switch feeds several other oven circuits, too, so unless there's something else not working, we can eliminate that as the problem. The door must be closed to close the switch that feeds electricity to the thermostats and heating circuit.To check for a wire break, you would pull each end of a wire off the component and test for continuity through the wire.
You may need to use jumpers to extend or even bypass the wire; for example, if one end of the wire is in the control console and the other end in underneath the machine. It will then be up to you to figure out exactly where that break is - there is no magic way. An ammeter is a safer way to test energized circuits if you have one, especially testing 220 volt circuits.
Occasionally, if the component is inexpensive enough, it's easier to just replace it and see if that solves the problem. Following is a primer on how to test each individual component you might find in any given oven.
Take all wires off the component and test continuity across it as described in section 2-4(b). Switches should show good continuity when closed and no continuity when open. It's true that diagnosing and repairing electrical circuits requires a bit more care than most operations, due to the danger of getting shocked. NO means "normally open" and with the switch at rest, you will see no continuity through it. SELECTOR SWITCHBLOCKS A selector switchblock, located in the control panel, is a group of switches all molded into one housing.
In your oven, a switchblock might be used to allow you to choose a cooktop heat setting, for example, or a cleaning cycle instead of a baking cycle.
You must look at the wiring diagram to see which of the terminals will be connected when the internal switches are closed. Keep in mind, however, that you must also know which of the internal switches close when an external button is pressed. When you press one button on the switchblock, several of the switches inside may close at once.To test a switchblock, in addition to the wiring diagram, you must have a chart that gives you this info. It's true that diagnosing and repairing electrical circuits requires a bit more care than most operations, due to the danger of getting shocked. Usually this is a part of the wiring diagram. Using the diagram and chart in figure 2-J, lets say we want to test contacts "T1" to "FM" for proper operation. We see that with the "clean" button pressed, these contacts inside the switchblock should be closed. Although error (fault) codes for most major brands may be found in Chapter 7, usually diagnosis consists of simply replacing circuit components until you find the bad one. Usually the problem turns out to be a bad oven sensor, stuck or defective keypad, ERC (clock) unit or a circuit board. These can be tested and rebuilt or replaced as described in this chapter.2-6 (c) THERMOSTATIC CONTROLSA thermostat is simply a switch or a gas valve that opens and closes according to the temperature it senses. If the heater's leads are still connected to something, you may get a reading through that something. If there is an automatic oven cycle, main control thermostats must also be wired through the timer. And if there is a cleaning cycle, they must be either bypassed or adjusted for the higher temperatures of that cycle. That's where you start to get dual-control thermostats, thermostats with twelve leads, and other complexities.
Some even control two levels of the same pilot. Main control thermostats are about the most expensive commonly-replaced parts in an oven. It should be the last thing you conclude, after you have checked out everything else in the system.The liquid inside the bulb and capillary of an oven thermostat is usually a mercury or sodium compound or some other such nasty and dangerous stuff. So when you replace an oven thermostat, do not cut open the capillary or bulb, and dispose of the old thermostat properly. The definition of "properly" varies between jurisdictions, but check with your appliance parts dealer or local fire department hazardous materials professionals.ADJUSTING THERMOSTATS The oven is adjusted by a small adjusting screw in the center of the oven thermostat valve stem.
In other words, if you set the thermostat at 350 degrees, you want the heating system to cycle on if the temperature is below 340 degrees, and off when the temperature reaches about 360 degrees. With nothing else in the oven, place it in the middle of the oven, where you can see it through the oven door glass. The greater the current that's flowing through a wire, the greater the magnetic field it produces around the wire. The important thing to remember about clocks in an oven unit are that often the thermostat controls are first wired through the timer. Also, if you are troubleshooting a no heat complaint in an oven with an automatic cycle, the first step is always to check the timer controls. The greater the current that's flowing through a wire, the greater the density of the magnetic field, or flux, it produces aroundthe wire. The woman who greeted me was the ultimate Susie homemaker; everything was spotless in HER kitchen.
Including the oven, which looked new, but this gal swore she'd owned it since it was new 35 years before, and by golly she knew it inside and out and didn't know why two ovens out of three suddenly didn't work. You must have a wiring diagram to determine which terminals are connected when a switch inside the timer closes.
Put a resistance meter across those terminals and advance the clock to determine if the switch is opening and closing. If the clock motor doesn't run or the switches don't open and close as they are supposed to, replace the timer. If there are any special wiring changes, they will be explained in instructions that come with the new timer. Clocks and timers can usually be rebuilt. Ask your appliance parts dealer for details.2-6 (e) ELECTRIC HEATERS AND IGNITORSElectric heater elements and ignitors are tested by measuring continuity across them as described in section 2-5(b).
Replace heater elements if they show no continuity.2-6 (f) RELAYSHeating elements use a lot of electricity compared to other electrical components. The switches that control them sometimes need to be built bigger than other kinds of switches, with more capacity to carry more electricity. The switches involved in running a heater or ignitor can be too big to conveniently put inside the control console or timer. Besides that, there are safety considerations involved in having you touch a switch that carries that much electricity directly, with your finger. The way they solve that problem is to make a secondary switch. A little switch activates an electromagnet, which closes a big switch that carries the heavier current load. That's how long it will take the evaporator to build up enough frost to block the airflow again.
Energize the unit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then disconnect the power again. 3) If this manual advocates replacing the part, REPLACE IT!! It's unpleasant, but unless exposure is more than a second or so, the only harm it usually does is to tick you off pretty good.
If they genuinely try to help you fix it yourself, and you find that you're unable to, they may be the best place to look for service. If the ignitor's leads are still connected to something, you may get a reading through that something.



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