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The floor and the various vertical bits have different colours, so the pieces have been attached to each other but not the floor to make painting easier; trying to squeeze a brush through that little maze at the front seems sub-optimal to me.
From the work I've done today, I'd say this is not a difficult kit, but it is one that requires the patience to build it according to instructions, and with plenty of time between relatively small steps to let the glue do it's work. This is a bad way to do things, obviously, since it leaves you with this huge connecting strip on the inside, and jam jar bottom windows. Delivery times may vary, especially during peak periods and will depend on when your payment clears - opens in a new window or tab. Find out more about your rights as a buyer - opens in a new window or tab and exceptions - opens in a new window or tab. By clicking Confirm bid you commit to buy this item from the seller if you are the winning bidder. Import charges previously quoted are subject to change if you increase you maximum bid amount. This required some careful balancing, followed by careful application of a small amount of very thin glue (do not let the glue reach the floor, or you'll fuse the modules in place). Barely adequate, even when only seen from the outside.To their credit, Airfix acknowledged this problem, and did their best to fix it.

It doesn't bother me, but the more AMS inclined will probably want to consider aftermarket replacements.
The decal includes a large black area sticking out below the actual panel, no doubt intended to cover the centre console. If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable.
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Alternatively, you could glue up most of the interior with fast setting CA, and bet (with considerable safety) that it doesn't go so badly that is shows from the outside.
They did so by making the holes for the windows too large, but fitted with a rim on the inside, to which transparent parts consisting of the window and it's frame are attached from the outside. I'm convinced this is the best C-47 kit in this scale, but it is not completely shake-and-bake (not a bad thing, but it might surprise you with a brand new tool).Another point to be aware of is that the plastic used is quite soft, reminiscent of the material Airfix used decades ago.
Of course, I did an uncharacteristically thorough job of glueing it in place, and there's no way it's going to budge any more. Physics has a thing or two to say about two objects occupying the same space, so something has to give. Personally, I like this since it's easier to work on (less force required, therefore more accuracy), but it does mean that an single overenthousiastic swipe with a blade can do serious damage.
Keep it in mind when working on this kit.If, like me, you're accustomed to working out of sequence, take a good long look at the main wings before you proceed.
Again to their credit, Airfix have delivered an extremely close fit, and I would have no qualms about just sticking the windows in as is, especially not on a painted (as opposed to NMF) subject.The second is painting. Airfix decided to break the monotony by putting these a bit off center (good idea), but the left and right pair are in different positions. On other kits I typically assemble the main wing halves early on, but to do so with this kit will cause grief later. The transparencies are very thin, and the demarcation between frame and window very light (which is good, by the way). If I did something wrong here, it doesn't twist things out of shape so far that fit problems result; in fact, I did a dry fit with all the interior bits in position, and the hull closed perfectly around all the assemblies.
I consider this main spar a good idea, and Airfix have make certain it's assembly is as close to idiot proof as it can get.
A bit of filler and sandpaper ought to put paid to the wedge once everything has properly set.Although all of these bits basically fall into place, alingment with the floor in not perfect, as can be seen from the picture.

With good quality, well behaved paint touch up with a brush should work, with lesser paints spraying a bit of decal paper along with the fuselage should provide excelent patch material. Well aimed sanding might have worked too, probably better, but it's very hard to see where things are too tight inside an almost closed fuselage); sometimes I wonder why we bother. As an entertaining detail, the spar ends just behind the landing lights, and the actual lamps are moulded as part of the spar. Maybe this is just the way it is, maybe I need to learn to balance large numbers of small pieces better while applying glue Some fiddling and twiddling will be required to get this to look really good. On the brighter side, if one were to really want to, I think it would be a relatively easy matter to replace one or two of the top panels with a clear part.
Right now, I'm thinking near as possible assembly with CA applied from below the floor, followed by a small amount of milliput squashed and washed in, followed by touch up with a small brush.The benches for paratroopers, surprisingly but accurately, are not attached to the floorplate, but to outer walls of the hull. This makes sense if you consider that these were in reality fold out benches, attached to the walls.
Absolutely anything will stand out like a very sore thumb on a finish like that, so the fit has to be so good that you can't see or feel the line between parts, and handbrushing corrections is out of the question.Since this build involves an olive drab and grey airplane, I'll go with the combination of 1 and 2 for this. This may result in some finicky work to get rid of the seam between the halves.This build is part of a larger Market Garden project, so I will not be using the kit decals.
The kit provides both deployed and folded flat options for this, just like the real thing, allowing us to choose between a troop or cargo carrying configuration (a narrow row of cargo in the middle, and seats folded out for non-conbat passengers on one or both sides is also possible, both in the kit and in reality).
It is, however, allmost certain that at some stage I'll be using this kit for a very shiny civilian, and at that point I'll have to invest in option 3.. I've left them closed, in hopes that I do not live to regret this later on.The join between the centre wing and the fuselage halves can be challenging, if my experience with the Esci and Italeri Dakotas is anything to go by. When assembling the hull, the benches (if deployed) actually help line up the inherently wobbly floor with the sides, which is quite welcome.Also seen in the picture is the centre section of the wing, with the main spar in place. Airfix have attempted to solve this by extending the centre wing section to include about half the length of the bottom of the fuselage, and supplying the wingroot fairings as separate parts. Lilly Bell II was one of the planes that dropped elements of the 101 Airborne near Son, in other words, in what now is my back yard, so that's a natural choice.Enough for now, time for some glue and filler to set, and for me to grab some grub. I consider this a partial success; fit isn't perfect, and some strongarm tactics will still be required, but it does look as though it's going to be easier to beat into submission than the alternatives.

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