The Ford Mondeo Estate models, the independent rear suspension is of “SLA” (Short and Long Arm) type.
The following schematic illustrates the Ford Mondeo Estate Rear Suspension System Parts and Components Assembly.
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Unbolt and remove the master cylinder from the booster, without disconnecting the brake lines. Remove the booster and bracket assembly from the dash panel, sliding the valve operating rod out from the engine side of the dash panel. Mount the booster and bracket assembly to the dash panel by sliding the valve operating rod in through the hole in the dash panel, and installing the attaching bolts. Working inside the vehicle below the instrument panel, install the rubber boot on the valve operating rod at the passenger side of the dash panel. Connect the valve operating rod to the brake pedal with the bushings, eccentric shoulder bolt, and nut. BRAKE BOOSTER PUSHROD ADJUSTMENTThe pushrod has an adjustment screw to maintain the correct relationship between the booster control valve plunger and the master cylinder piston. To check the alignment of the screw, fabricate a gauge (from cardboard, following the dimensions in the above illustration) and place it against the master cylinder mounting surface of the booster body. Do not loosen the axle wheel hub retainer until the wheel and tire are removed from the vehicle. Make sure that the press adapter outside diameter is slightly smaller than the hub outside diameter or damage to the knuckle will result.
This allows a larger load area, since there are no suspension points projecting into the luggage area. My AC system was working fine on the highway driving home from the airport when is decided to go FULL HOT when it was only 83 degrees outside. When all 3 brake lights are out, this will be a problem with the Brake Light Switch, located at the top of the brake pedal arm.

Usually what happens is the switch goes faulty, and blows the fuse, and both need to be changed.
Working inside the vehicle below the instrument panel, disconnect the booster valve operating rod from the brake pedal assembly. If the plunger is too long it will prevent the master cylinder piston from completely releasing hydraulic pressure, causing the brakes to drag. Adjust the pushrod screw by turning it until the end of the screw just touches the inner edge of the slot in the gauge. Wheel bearing damage will occur if the wheel bearing is unloaded with the weight of the vehicle applied.
There are three side arms on each side: one forged upper arm, and two pressed-steel lower side arms. The truck sat baking in the July Florida sun for the 4 days previous and had it’s share of summer thunderstorms as well. If the plunger is too short it will cause excessive pedal travel and an undesirable clunk in the booster area.
If the fuse is good, and still no brake lights, inspect the electrical connector to the Brake Light Switch, looking for any loose or broken wires. Please read everything!Are all 3 of the brake lights out, or does the center-mount still work?

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