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Author: admin, 19.05.2014. Category: The Power Of Attraction

Gebruik van deze website is onderworpen aan onze Gebruiksvoorwaarden en aankopen zijn onderworpen aan onze Verkoopvoorwaarden. After determining the correct code requirements for your stair, consider the stair’s design aspects. After you have determined the proper codes to follow for your municipality, you are ready to begin the layout and calculations of your stair.
First determine the size of your stairwell, making sure to allow for the proper headroom to accommodate the stairs.
Assuming the distance from one finished floor to the other (total rise) measures 118 inches, find out the number of risers needed by dividing the total finish rise by 7.5. Knowing the number of risers tells you the number of treads a€” 15 (the sixteenth riser will be positioned approaching the upper floor with no tread on top).
Next, calculate the length of the stairwell, or the width of the upper floor’s vertical shaft in which the stairs are located. First, account for the required headroom and the upper-floor construction, including floor-joist height, floor thickness and drywall thickness.

The answer you get (12.542) is the number of treads needed in the clear opening to make headroom.
Remember, the construction materials that you use will dictate the outcome of your finished product, and quality materials will produce a quality job. Grab a pencil and commit your plans to paper, sketching a rough blueprint of your staircase. The building code that we are implementing for this project is BOCA 96 for residential use.
The run of the stair will then be 15 treads at 10 inches per tread, or 150 inches of total run. The first class is a mill-made stair, which is usually fabricated in a mill shop and shipped to the job site as a kit, ready for assembly and installation.
Before beginning construction, you should consult not only the national building-code requirements, but also the local building-code requirements. Many a stair has been torn out due to incorrect calculation of this item before the stair is built and installed.

To determine the actual total length of the stair, you must add the nosing of the bottom step and the thickness of the top riser.
The second class, a carpenter-built stair, is just that a€” a stair built on site by a carpenter. Some municipalities have stricter codes than others, and checking first will eliminate the need to rebuild later. When you use a lower grade of material that contains knots and voids, the stair may encounter cracking at a later date. There is nothing worse than having some common stair-building sense knocked into you by bumping your head.

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