How to make a new england clam chowder,confucius quotes positive thinking quotes,how great entrepreneurs think by leigh buchanan - .

Author: admin, 15.08.2015. Category: Positive Quote Of The Day

Southfield, MI (WXYZ) - This summer Vince & Joe's Gourmet Market wants you to "take a break from the steak."Another option for when your entertaining guests is a New England-style Clam Bake. If you've spent any amount of time in coastal New England, you've probably noticed how generously awards are bestowed upon clam chowders.
Having spent my entire life traveling through New England, I've grown accustomed to the fact that nine out of ten "award-winning!" or "#1 voted!" clam chowders are going to arrive at the table either thick as paste, bereft of clams, or packed with clams so rubbery they make your jaws bounce, and unfortunately, most home recipes don't turn up results that are much better.
The flavor of a clam chowder should be delicate and mild, the sweetness of the pork complementing the faint bitterness of the clams, accented by bits of celery and onion that have all but dissolved into the broth, fading completely into the background.
Chowders have a long, complex, and relatively apocryphal history that can be traced back to the fish and seafood stews eaten in coastal England and France.
Whatever the etymology, its history can be traced across the Atlantic to the fishing towns of New England—Boston, Mystic, Nantucket, New Bedford—where the European dish was adapted to work with sea journey-friendly staples like onions, potatoes, and salt pork or beef, along with local ingredients like cod, oysters, and clams. About a decade ago, I had a job as a cook at B&G Oysters in Boston's South End, a fancy-pants seafood shack run by Barbara Lynch. It was delicious, but It's decidedly not the way a traditional chowder is made; a poor man's food meant to take few ingredients and even less effort. Aside from the interesting technique of layering ingredients in a post to stew them and the very Victorian use of spices, the recipe essentially reads "put things in a pot and cook them." One thing you'll immediately notice is that dairy is conspicuously absent from the recipe. Slowly, as dairy became cheaper and more readily available in the region, it began making larger and larger appearances in chowder, at first simply being used to moisten the biscuit, before eventually completely replacing it as the primary ingredient outside of clams, pork, and aromatics.
I decided to break it down element by element and really figure out what it is that makes clam chowder tick. Most basic recipes for clam chowder call for rendering down some form of salted pork (bacon or salt pork usually), sweating onions and celery in the rendered fat, a touch of flour, followed by milk, potatoes, chopped, and occasionally bottled clam juice. Right off the bat, there are some issues I have with this process—flour-based roux can be pasty, and cooking the clams as long as the potatoes is a surefire path to rubbery clams.
With any form of pork, the key is to go low and slow so that the fat renders out completely without letting the pork burn.
Onions, celery, and bay leaf are the traditional flavorings here, and I found no reason to stray from them.
Clams are slow-growing bivalves, and their size can vary tremendously depending on the age at which they are harvested.
Littlenecks, the next size up, and what you are likely to encounter at a raw bar, or on top of a Connecticut pizza.
Cherrystones are quite large—usually around 4 to 7 to a pound—and are used primarily for stuffing and baking.
Quahogs (pronounced KO-HOG) are the largest, sometimes weighing as much as half a pound or more.
On the Cape, most chowders are made exclusively from quahogs—they're inexpensive, and very meaty.
I cooked batches of chowder side-by-side, using variously sized clams and found that in the end, cherrystones and littlenecks were actually superior to quahogs, offering a more tender texture. In no time, you should have a pot full of flavorful clam liquid, and a pile of chopped clams on the side. I chop up the clams, transfer them to a strainer set over a bowl (to collect any juices that drip out from inside), then set them aside until just before serving the chowder. Now, let's say that a few of those 49ers fans happen to find each other, forming a small group.
Similarly with an emulsified liquid, disturbing this careful mix even slightly—by, say, heating it—can cause the fat to rapidly separate out from the liquid. One way is to use a roux, which adds flour particles to the mix that physically impede fat droplets from coalescing. At first, I tried adding a few very thin slices of potato to the mix, figuring they'd break down into individual starch granules relatively rapidly in the broth. Alright, what if instead of waiting for the potatoes to break down naturally, I give them a bit of mechanical aid?


I cooked up another batch, this time forcing the potatoes through a potato ricer and whisking the resulting puree into the broth.
Next, I figured that perhaps my cooking method had something to do with the broth constantly breaking.
It's not that any of the chowders were bad, per se, certainly the flavor of the broth was superior to the vast majority of restaurant versions, and the texture of the clams and potatoes was spot on. For my next batch, I made a chowder using the most succesful technique I had attempted thus far, cooking the potatoes and vegetables in milk and adding the cream at the end. Indeed, I believe that if a traditional dish can be improved using modern techniques and equipment while still maintaining their historic and cultural core, then it is our duty to do so. What ended up in my bowl was more than just the platonic ideal of my childhood Cape Cod memories, it was a dish with a real sense of history about it. Now I've never met the folks who run these award factories, but I take issue with any organization that passes out praise like flyers.
And if finding great chowder in its birthplace is difficult, you can imagine what it's like outside of New England. A good grind of black pepper and a bay leaf or two are the only other seasonings you need, unless you count the requisite oyster crackers as seasoning. Like many old dishes, the name of the food stems from the word for its cooking vessel, a large cooking pot or "cauldron," known in French as a chaudiere. It was there that I first started taking a serious interest in chowder-making, there that I realized that chowder is not just the sludgy stuff I'd been raised to believe it was.
These days, the biscuits live on in the form of oyster crackers, which as any true chowder-head can tell you, should be added liberally to your bowl and allowed to soften slightly before consuming. Can the dump-and-simmer method be improved upon by some modern technique, or is there something to the classic that gets lost when fiddled with too much? It all gets simmered together with a bay leaf or two until the potatoes are cooked and the broth is thickened. It works in a chowder, but I find the smoky flavor of bacon can be a little overwhelming for the delicate clams. I tried a few versions with things like carrots, thyme, leeks, and garlic, but in all cases found them to be distracting, taking away from the inherent chowderiness of the broth.
Just as Eastern North Carolina Barbecue differs from Western North Carolina Barbecue, so does New England clam chowder made in Cape Cod differ from that made in, say, Mystic, Connecticut. The term is very rarely used—you're more likely to see them lumped in with either the littlenecks or the cherrystones at the fish market or in a restaurant.
Round where I grew up, they're known as "chowder clams," and it's for good reason—their large size makes them very easy to process for chowder, and not great for much else.
Smaller littlenecks and cherrystones are better reserved for more expensive uses like raw bars and baking. By adding a bit of liquid (plain water or clam juice work fine) to the pot after sweating my aromatics and adding the clams, I could get the suckers to steam open in a matter of minutes. If you're using canned or frozen clams, this is even easier—just dump the clams straight in during the last minute or two of simmering. But it also creates that "award-winning" sludge effect, where the chowder becomes so thick and goopy that the flavors—those delicate flavors of clam and pork—are muddied.
I knew that starchier potatoes like russets are more likely to break down into a broth than waxier potatoes like reds or Yukon golds, but I gave all three a shot.
They not only thicken the best, but they also have the most tender, potatoey texture in the finished dish. As a general rule, fat molecules like to stick together, while water molecules like to push them as far away as possible. This is because it's gone through a process called homogenization, in which the the milk is forced at high pressure through a super-fine mesh. Suddenly, that group is much more visible to the rest of the 49ers fans, causing them to get drawn towards it.


What's worse is that once a bit of fat starts to coalesce, it can quickly trigger all the fat to coalesce.
It's just the liquid that suffered appearance and texture-wise without the roux to hold it together. This time, instead of just stirring the chopped clams into the broken end result, Instead, I strained the chowder through a fine mesh strainer and dumped the liquid into my blender, figuring that the violent mechanical action of the blender should be powerful enough to break up those fat droplets, as well as to pulverize a few of the potato cells that may have made their way in there, releasing their starch and helping to keep the mixture homogenous. What came out of the blender was a rich, creamy, perfectly smooth liquid that tasted of clams, pork, and dairy. Chowders have been changing steadily for the past several hundred years, which, incidentally, means that anyone who tells you "that's not real clam chowder" or "chowder needs this or that" is, frankly, full of it. Some folks have tried to argue that barbecue is the only true regional American cuisine; The only dish with an identity in both time and place.
Kenji Lopez-Alt is the Managing Culinary Director of Serious Eats, and author of the James Beard Award-nominated column The Food Lab, where he unravels the science of home cooking. Tender chunks of potato should barely hold their shape, dissolving on your tongue, their soft texture contrasting with tender bites of salty pork and briny clam; god help the clam shack that dare serves rubbery clams in their chowder! Or perhaps it comes from the old English term for a fishmonger jowter, which had been in use in Cornwall since at least the 16th century. We made our chowder in the manner of a fancy restaurant—cooking and seasoning each element individually, combining, pureeing, straining, adding, mixing, until our broth was intensely flavored and light, our clams were perfectly tender, and every vegetable cooked just so. I pull them out of the pot as their shells pop open, draining their liquid into the pot, then removing the flesh with a spoon before roughly chopping it. That said, with the elimination of the roux, none of the chowders came out particularly successfully.
In order to get a smooth, creamy chowder, you need to figure out a way to get them to play nicely together and integrate. This breaks the fat into ultra-tiny droplets, each one of which gets completely surrounded by water molecules, preventing them from rejoining. But let them in one at a time, and it becomes much more difficult for them to find each other, leading to a more homogenous mix in the bar.
Eventually, you'll find that very rapidly, your balanced mix is broken, your 49ers fans once again forming a distinct blob in the sea of Ravens fans. I also know that the exact ratio of cream to milk, and when in the process the cream is added can have a big impact on how its fat and water content behaves. Why should we now choose to freeze chowders in time, when more than ever before, we have an understanding of the hows and whys of cooking? A restaurant-trained chef and former Editor at Cook's Illustrated magazine, he is the author of upcoming The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science, to be released on September 21st, 2015 by W. In an extra large stockpot over medium-high heat, bring the water, wine, Old Bay, sea salt, butter, garlic, tarragon, and andouille sausage to a boil.2. They'll go from sweet and tender to overcooked and rubbery in the blink of an eye, and cooking them for as long as it takes to soften a pot of potatoes is a one way ticket to Rubber City. That is, a little flour cooked in the rendered bacon fat used to bind together and thicken the chowder as it simmers. I poured the liquid back over my strained solids, added the chopped clams, reheated the whole deal, and season it. Many restaurants—reputable ones who make great chowder, at that—use canned or frozen chopped clams to great effect. Clam juice can also be an effective way of adding in some clam flavor—even when the fresh guys are available. Layer again with seaweed and add the shrimp, clams, mussels, corn, and top off with more seaweed.



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