Building a garden shed on a slope

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Can I inset the block a bit 'inside' the floor framing so that all you'd see from the perimeter is the edge boards?
Yes it will make a difference for the same reason that outriggers on boom trucks stick out and to the side. I think realistically you COULD move them inside the outside edge of the wall, but do not rely on your flooring to hold the weight of the structure.
I remember a few months ago on another shed build where there was some concern on the framing, but I think that was where the wall framing didn't come in direct alignment with any flooring structure. My concern is exactly as you've described above - that there will be weight coming down the walls and redirected (hopefully) to the blocks.
If you had a couple of 4 x 4 bearers running under the joists at 90 degrees and set in 6 inches or so, you could then put your blocks under them and set them in a bit from the ends.
If you built the base out of the better treated lumber you could just let it sit on the ground. To further clarify your plans can you tell us more about the site such as: what soil conditions you have, what is your frost penetration depth (if any), and is the shed going to reside on level ground? I would just double the load bearing sill(I think that is the right name, someone will if it is not) and use half the blocks.
Read previous post:Free App Helps Measure Sky BrightnessFree App Helps Measure Sky Brightness. I have found that most counties in the vicinity of where I live want you to use a 4x4 treated post (pier) anchored in concrete in a hole that is dug just below the frost line.
Headers For Windows and Doors Feb 07, 16 10:01 AMHow to make headers for door and window openings in your shed framing. Pictures of Sheds, Storage Shed Plans, Shed Designs Dec 27, 15 10:46 AMVisit our library of pictures of sheds built from our shed plans.
Awesome 10x12 Barn Shed Dec 27, 15 10:41 AMSee how Jason built his very own 10x12 barn shed and had a great time doing it. Last week I had the opportunity to help a friend build the foundation for a new shed that will be delivered in a couple of weeks.
Tip: Pressure-treated lumber is infused with chemical and rated by the amount per cubic foot of wood. The shed measures 10 x 18′, and we started planning the layout by marking the corners of the shed with stakes. The shed will be constructed on a skid of 4 x 4’s running left-to-right along the length.
Where the strings intersected, they just barely touched so as to not interfere with each other. From our string guides, we determined the locations for our post holes and marked them with spray paint. Knowing the approximate height for each post (from our string guides), we rough-cut our 6 x 6″ posts and put them cut-side-up into each hole. As we leveled the posts, we used a small amount of pea gravel and dirt to temporary hold the posts in place. In this picture you can see that I placed my pencil between the post and the string (and another pencil on the far post).
When we were satisfied that all the posts were in-line with each other, equidistant and completely level, we began filling in around each post, tamping the dirt as we worked. We want to keep the shed as low to the ground as possible while still keeping everything level. Each support beam is a double 2 x 10″, and we notched each post where the support beam will sit.
Using a framing nailer, we put rows of 5 nails every 24″ or so on both sides of the support beam.
Next, we placed our carriage bolts, washers and nuts and used a wrench to tighten everything down.


For additional support and to keep our foundation from racking, we added 2 x 8″ joists between the support beams. We also installed lateral braces on the backside posts using a combination of carriage bolts and lag screws. Subscribe and never miss an article!Free articles delivered conveniently to your inbox(and no spam, we promise)Enjoy this?
I know you guys have done and watched a lot of projects like this, but how much drawing and planning went into this foundation before the first piece of lumber was cut?
It might be worth it to move the shed down the slope a little bit to buy some room to approach from the back. I know this is the way quick foundations are done, but you didn’t mention that, eventually, the pressure treated wood will rot because it is in contact with the dirt. The foundation should be concrete poured into sonotube so that the concrete is at least 6 inches above ground level.
2) In this area and for this size of a shed, we didn’t need to get anything inspected. In view of the kind of wind that we’ve had in the past few years, I want to fasten these things, rather than just rest them on the footings. I believe manufacturers (like Simpson) make ties for connecting above-ground footings to posts or directly to PT framing.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. If you are asking can you set block inside so the material on the outside of your building covers the block then yes. If you don't want to see the block sticking out then bury it and raise the floor joist of the shed with a cinder block resting on the dek block. My worry is whether this would make the walls unsupported and therefore weaken the overall structure. Underneath the shed I'm planning on throwing down some landscape fabric to keep weeds down. I'm leaning towards keeping it more conventional and then think of creative ideas to hide the gap. Anyone see any issues or as others have said, should I just put the blocks under the exterior joist and do something creative to hide them?
I'm in Vancouver so we don't have a frost issue to consider and the ground as it sits now is fairly level.
I chose a garden shed because of its relative low cost, immediate delivery, and because it blends in well in an urban backyard. Most if not all sheds that I build with wooden floors are anchored with a minimum of 2 to 4 piers set in concrete. These 4"x4" treated posts are usually set in concrete in a hole that is a minimum of 6", usually 8", and dug to a minimum depth equal to your areas frost line.The piers are 'held' on to the skids with either mending plates on each side, or post caps.
His back yard has a bit of a slope, and it would take too much concrete to pour a slab (read how to pour a concrete shed foundation here). To keep everything square, we measured the diagonal distances to make sure they were equal.
For that reason, we want our support beams to be perpendicular and run front-to-back.¬†For this project, we decided that 6 posts, (2 rows of 3 posts) would give us a solid foundation. The string guides were useful for determining the slope of our site, finding the high-point and marking the locations for our post holes. We were careful not to dig too deep because we wanted the concrete footers to rest on undisturbed ground. The posts are oriented this way because the cut sides will have slightly less pressure-treated chemical in the center. Starting at our highest point and using an 8′ level, we marked the bottom of our support beam just a few inches off the ground and then scribed this line across all of the other posts.


Using a quick-clamp and speed square as a straight-edge, we cut each post to the right height.
You can see each joist is secured with hanger ties and sits flush with the top of our support beams.
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Side entrance could use a retaining wall either above or below the entrance to create a level spot for an entrance. Also, they can point out decks built the same way that are 25+ years old and still in great shape (much like my own deck). With a great deal of moisture, even this type of wood will rot over time; however, with good drainage I think you can expect at least 25-30 years.
While my friend was shoveling, I was constantly making changes to keep everything level, and good thing because after backfilling, we couldn’t budge the posts at all.
My friend got the shed through Maryland’s Best Sheds, and the link is at the beginning of the article. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. I was thinking the block product would have a larger footprint (more like a patio stone) in the advice I was giving above. The design of this shed is very suitable for use as an observatory because the roof slides up and down very easily. For that reason, we decided that building a post and beam foundation would be the best way to go.
If you look closely, you’ll see the front, far-left corner was our high point, and the back, right corner was the low point. To make this cut, we used a circular saw on each side of the posts and a reciprocating saw to cut through the center. The foundation is very solid, completely level, and I’m excited to see the shed delivered. A foundation done in this manner will last forever, whereas the foundation described in the article will last for 20 years or so. Furthermore, local code offers three acceptable ways to construct supports and this is one of them.
I would think that in the case of the slope here, you’re probably going to get pretty good drainage around the footers.
I’d think that once you finished your framing, you’d have no movement so as long as you staid true, you were good, right?
The shed is made by Royal Outdoor Products, model YM808 model, but almost any similar shed will suffice. Then I will use the blocking described above spaced evenly between the anchors about every 4' or so.If your shed has 3 runners, the middle runner can just be supported with the blocking at equal intervals, usually about every 4'.
I personally would be OK with this setup for a shed, but obviously wouldn’t use it for my house. If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us. There are other models that are still available that are built in a similar manner and can be easily converted into an observatory. I always suggest that buyers of my storage shed plans check with their local building inspector to make sure which method of anchoring your shed floor is acceptable in your particular locality.
No modifications were necessary for getting the roof to open and close, rather the roof panels are not completely screwed into place.



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