Building a garden shed on a slope

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In this story, we'll show you how to create smooth bends in rebar and how to assemble the trellis. Also, if you’ve followed my blog for any length of time at all, you know the reasons why we launched our old home salvage business. Create a garment rack using a branch.  More ideas provided here and here and here and here.
Build a floor lamp.  See another idea  here, here, here, here, and here.    The latter is a DIY project! Create a Christmas tree.  Want more ideas?  Click here, here, here, here, here, here, here, and here. Filed Under: Inspire, Popular Posts, Tutorials Tagged With: animals, bedroom, benches, DIY, fences and gates, floors, flowers, furniture, gardening, jewelry, lighting, little shelves and cabinets, staircase, trees, Upcycling, wallsIf you liked this post, consider signing up to receive new posts via email!
With Instructables you can share what you make with the world, and tap into an ever-growing community of creative experts. I wanted to build a decent-sized torii so I hunted around for some large posts to use for the Hashiras. The logs, by nature, have numerous splits and, although I had chosen wisely, there were many both small and medium sized splits in them. I added enough water to the holes to mix the rapid-set concrete and then quickly leveled up the posts. The Kasagi is decorative and is held in place by a piece of 30mm quad screwed into place with galvanised screws, at about 150mm centres, from the rear.
Thanks, the colour is vermillion but is probably called something else in your neck of the woods.
It is by far the best and most informative instructions,And Iam doubting I will find anything remotely as informative and so easy to follow.
Click on the PDF icon near the top of the page and you can download the entire instructable in PDF format.
Yes, Coppers Logs are pressure treated timber that resists pests and has a degree of rot resistance when buried in the ground.
The distance between the inside edges of the hashira at the ground be equal to the height from the ground to the bottom of the nuki. I also recommend tenons at the top of the hashira, and corresponding mortise in the shimagi.
For a gate with both shimagi and kasagi, the shimagi height and width dimensions should equal the nuki diameter. The ends of the shimagi should touch a line drawn from the outside edge of the hashira at the ground to the end of the nuki (and extended through the horizontal plane of the shimagi).


The angles of the ends of the nuki and shimagi are found by cutting according to that same line just described.
The length of the kasagi (and the angles of the end cuts for it) are found by drawing a line from the center of the gate at ground level to the outside edge of the nuki, and extending it through the horizontal plane of the kasagi.
Since my gate would be a bit heavier, I recommend no less than 1 mm below ground for every 3 mm above ground.
When pouring in the concrete around the hashira, have a mold at the top so that the concrete will rise 10 - 15 cm above ground level.
These are all recommendations, made in part from what I have been able to gleen from a variety of resources, including living in Japan for four years. There is a written work, The Five Secret Books of the Master Carpenter, which gives the proportions of the length of the nuki, and the stipulation about the relationship of height and width of the opening that I described above. Wayne San, thanks for your comprehensive comments concerning the classical ratios of a Torii.
In no way would the Gakuzuka accurately fit into the space between the Nuki and the Shimagi.
Instead of cutting a strip from the topside, what you should do is mark the curvature on the bottom edge and carefully cut of the lower corners. I will be saving this for the day I eventually get a house, Or maybe I will make a smaller version for my apartment door.
Great one, If I were to recomend one change I would say extend the concrete foundation above the existing ground.
With a helper, center the rebar on the middle stake and push the ends around the semicircle. You'll need a few simple tools, including a conduit bender ($30) for tight curves and a hacksaw for cutting the bar to length. Once you’'e mastered the process, you should be able to build a second one in less than half a day. Then form the curve by pulling the handle and pressing down on the tool with your foot (Photo 5).
New Zealand's kauri wood is workable after 45,000 years buried in the wet, boggy ground. Dad is a handy at wood work, together we scaled down the dimensions for the smaller yard that I have.
In the “fun-to-buy-tools”department, you may want to pick up an angle grinder ($50) and a metal-cutting blade for quicker rebar cuts.
You can use some other firm but flexible item, like vinyl siding or a strip of flexible hardboard to cushion the rebar as well. Logs from the Louisiana swamps and the American Great Lakes are being recovered and used after centuries underwater.


In reality, the dimensions are not that critical, whatever is pleasing to your eye is good. Once the trellis is covered with climbing plants, the steel disappears and you have a dramatic entryway into your garden.
Don't worry about that; the arches will form the correct radius when you set them in the ground. Would it be possible, considering your climate, to use the material that you excavated for the hole as back-fill? So if anyone is thinking of making a smaller version, just scale down the existing dimensions and you should be right. You then simply join the arches with rebar circles, lashing them together with wraps of copper wire.
Probably the most famous torii is the one at Itsukushima Shrine located at Miyajima, near Hiroshima.
With 4-foot eaves to protect the wood from rain and snow, and stone sills to keep them from ground contact, the buildings are in good shape after 500-600 years. Due to its upturned ends (30mm), you would need to begin with a piece of timber 2700x160x30. Then 30mm, tapering down to 0mm at the ends, is cut off what will become the top edge of the kasagi. Another tip is to assemble it before you put the posts in to make sure it all sits in nicely.
When you pull the string taut, you create a compass and can mark a smooth arc with chalk (Photo 2).
Minor imperfections will be minimized when you wire them to the arches and hidden when your greenery grows.
We measured up the positions of the posts, the height, the level across all dimensions and it assembled so well.
Space the other nine stakes evenly in a semicircle around the arc, driving them at least 5 in. One trick is to buy a 16-ft.-long 2x4, attach it to your roof rack and then lash the rebar to it.
As I dug, and wiggled the posts, they snapped off at the rotted areas at ground level; however, digging for the buried portions revealed solid timbers.



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Comments
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