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Designed for use in vises and machine tools, Acme threads are wide-bodied for strength and steeply inclined to efficiently transfer clamping pressure. The offset post creates different clamping points for fast setup and maximum adjustability. These wooden clamps won’t mar your workpiece or leave unsightly stains, the way steel or iron bar clamps can.
Thanks to their flat-bottom design, these clamps won’t tip over, even when they extend well beyond the edge of your bench. For Comfort and increased gripping power, wrap the handle like a tennis racket, using rubber cut from an inner tube. American Woodworker magazine was acquired by F+W Media (parent company of Popular Woodworking) in 2014.
Making of this bar clamp requires not much of your time and you don’t need to have some special skills. You can use various types of wood to make this type of clamp, but we recommend Birch, Beech, Oak, Maple, Ash, Alder, or some other types with similar qualities. The measurements within this text and 2D documentation are given both in millimeters and inches (in brackets). All woodworking and metalworking plans are under Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported license.
The measurements are given in millimeters, while the measurements given in inches are in brackets (1 inch = 25, 4 mm).
I already have quite a few clamps: pipe clamps, c-clamps, spring clamps and six (at last count) bar clamps. One thing that makes them less convenient to use is that there is a lot of space between the notches, making for a lot of cranking of the handle to close the jaws together. The piece of wood being clamped is 17" long, and I've put more force on it than I'd normally use during a glue up. After the glue had dried, I shaped the fixed jaw, sanded it smooth and got ready to glue in the threaded rod. The moving jaw is made nearly identical to the fixed jaw, the only difference is a bevel at the back of the cutout, to enable the jaw to slightly rotate.
This is what locks the moving jaw in place during clamping, by meshing with the rod on the bar.
The four holes are for the spikes on the t-nut - trying to drive this into the jaw would be asking for trouble. An interesting project, it's always more fulfilling when you get to improve upon an earlier design and bring it to fruition.

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This item will be sent through the Global Shipping Programme and includes international tracking. Items delivered internationally may be subject to customs processing depending on the item's declared value. By clicking Confirm bid, you are committing to buy this item from the seller if you are the winning bidder and have read and agree to the Global Shipping Programme terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab. By clicking 1 Click Bid, you are agreeing to buy this item from the seller if you're the winning bidder. These wooden clamps are easy to make, a joy to use and they exert plenty of clamping pressure. They’re faster to adjust than standard V-threads, because they have fewer threads per inch. For storage, simply plant this jaw in the hole nearest the headstock and secure it with the headstock jaw. All you have to do is to precisely make the items with the exact measurements as given in this documentation, then join those parts together. Often, we only need two or three at a time, but occasionally there is that big glue-up that requires at least four more than you have. My reason for making the notches this far apart was to try and prevent this wood from breaking off under clamping pressure - by reducing the distance to half, I would be making the clamp more fragile. Of course all bar clamps bend while in use, but these can bend quite a significant amount, making it seem that they may break. The threaded rod mates with another short piece of threaded rod that is glued into the moving jaw and locks the moving jaw in place. This pre-stress counters the compressive force of clamping, preventing the bar from bending back.
There is so much force, the clamp is actually twisting slightly, as seen in the picture above. The end of the bar is rounded and has a hole drilled into it to receive the hooked end of the threaded rod. This tension goes a long way toward keeping the bar straight by countering the tension from the clamping action. This rotation lets the short piece of threaded rod in the moving jaw clear the one in the bar, so that the jaw can be slid back and forth.

The two major shortcomings of the previous version were addressed, making for a much better clamp. Delivery times may vary, especially during peak periods and will depend on when your payment clears - opens in a new window or tab.
By clicking Confirm bid you commit to buy this item from the seller if you are the winning bidder. Import charges previously quoted are subject to change if you increase you maximum bid amount. If you build them with scrap lumber, they cost less than half the cost of a comparable aluminum bar or steel I-beam clamp. Good news is that you can get some pretty decent clamps at a good price - great if you are buying one or two. Bar clamps are fast and don't give up much clamping pressure (in comparison to c-clamps) in exchange for their ease of adjustability. The threaded rod replaces the notches that were cut in the bar in the previous version, allowing for much finer adjustment before tightening. Although I knew this would be somewhat effective, I was pleasantly surprised to see just how well it works - under quite a lot of clamping force, the bar deflection was minimal. If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. Unfortunately, even reasonably priced clamps can still be a hefty financial burden, if you need a large number of them. Making the bar wider would help but also make the whole assembly more bulky and necessitate the use of stock that was not deemed as 'scraps'. The outside diameter of the socket is 1" - perfect for the 'candy cane' shape I needed on the rod. The nail is there in case the glue holding the handle on fails, even though that is unlikely to happen. Using up scraps counter balances the time spent building them, making for a really economical project.

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Comments to «Wooden Bar Clamps Plans»

  1. milaska writes:
    Accessories and worktables do not play.
  2. Xariograf writes:
    Field fairly similar to this when designer.