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28.11.2015 admin
That plan was quickly squashed by Lisa and we decided that it might be a good idea to start with a 1 x 2 from home depot and see how it turned out. I was going to do a video about How to make a homemade long bow with wood from the hardware store, but I decided that because Go Geronimo has done such a great job with his videos, why reinvent the wheel. In the video below he goes through what tools you will need and how to pick the right piece of wood. Choosing the right piece of wood for your bow is crucial because with all the work and attention to detail you will be putting in, picking the wrong piece of wood will cause problems down the line. Finding the right piece of wood is easier said than done, you won’t be able to find a “perfect” piece of wood from Home Depot, but do the best you can. This video goes through the main part of taking a 1 x 2 and making it start to look like a bow. It’s a little tricky getting the wood to stay in the right place when gluing, but don’t worry, you will be filing and sanding this later anyway.
As you can see in the picture below I applied a layer of glue, then 1 strip of fiberglass tape. A tillering tree is important because you want to exercise the wood and condition it to the bending and flexing. The above video explains how to build the tillering tree and in the video below  he explains how to use the tillering tree. After you have the bow tillered you will cut out the arrow rest and begin to shape the handle and give it some character.
You will want to use really fine sand paper because once you apply the stain (if you choose to) all the little imperfections will be magnified. After you use 220 grit sandpaper on the bow and wipe off any residual dust from sanding you can apply one layer of stain to the bow.
After that give it another sanding (fine grit sandpaper) and apply 2 or 3 layers of spur urethane, sanding between each layer but not the last. Spur urethane is important because it is provides protection from weather, moisture and sunlight. The videos didn’t go through how to string the bow so I just went to eBay and bought a premade bow string for a 72 inch bow. I don't believe that the end of the world will be the "end of the world" I believe it will be the end of the world as we know it now. Thanks Tom, The Red Oak and the Maple 1 x 2 were about $8 each, the string was about $10 and the urethane and tape were around $20. What iwe heard, you would get a better bow if you combined not 1 type of wood, but 2 types of woods together. Your web page has been the most helpful for a beginner to make his first bow that I’ve seen yet. I made my first bow (and arrows) strictly out of bamboo, mainly because I lived in SE Asia and the stuff was plentiful.
I’m now over 50 years old and looking forward to embarking on the same journey into bow building only this time armed with the help of your Web page and videos.
I was wondering if eucalyptus is a good wood, there is loads here, oak and the other woods you suggest is not available due to my location.
If you want to make a survival bow whilst in self imposed or forced exile, your going to be stuck to Self-wood bows or Turkish re-curve like animal tendon jobs, and should look for Osage Orange, Purple Heart, Ash, Elm or Hickory. Hi Dale, just a little info but the bow you made is not actually a longbow, it is what is known as a flatbow, close to the longbow but with a handle like yours than the limbs and usually with flat limbs, as its name implies, A longbow does not have wide limbs but instead they have round ones, they also do not usually have a shelf to fire the arrow from, you fire the arrow off your finger.
When we decided to start raising chickens about 3 years ago we went the quick and easy route and decided to buy a premade chicken coop, and after I saw the prices of some of these chicken coops I basically purchased the cheapest chicken coop I could find. The chicken coop I purchased was about $350 from our local feed store and initially looked and worked great. My initial investment of $350 for the cheap chicken coop plus the $275 cost of building a chicken coop to replace the original just under 3 years later is a total of $625 that I could have spent on the original coop, and it would have lasted much longer.
If you decide you want to try your hand at building your own, this article will show you how to build your own chicken coop. I can’t add all the pictures I took to this article so I made a PDF that might give you a litle more detail about this chicken coop that you can download at the end of this article.
Miter Saw or Circular Saw: A miter saw will help get perfect angles but is not absolutely necessary.
This chicken coop is 6 foot wide X 4 foot long, and 4 foot tall in front, sloped to 3 foot tall in the back. This chicken coop design is basically a dwarf sized storage shed, it is built with 2 x 4’s and OSB board which is like plywood only cheaper and better quality. Just like anything else it all starts with the foundation, I used a piece of 4 x 6 OSB board framed with 2 x 4’s around the bottom along with 2 x 4’s across the middle for support. The next step is building the wall frame, this is much easier to do if you assemble the walls before you nail it to the foundation. The walls are made from the OSB board, but only attach the side walls at this point because you are going to want room to finish the inside before you close the chicken coop up. The side walls are 4 feet tall at the front, and 3 feet tall at the back, the back wall is 3 feet tall x 6 feet long. The roof gables also extend 6 inches past the front and back of the chicken coop to keep water out when the roof is added. I was reminded by my wife that this was just a chicken coop, so I decided to keep the inside simple, the right half was where their eggs, and the left half was where I put their loft and door. Instead of trying to measure all the openings on the front I just tacked the first 2 foot x 4 foot OSB board up, traced the chicken entry outline with a sharpie and cut that pieces out with a jig saw.
I also framed the OSB board with some 2×2’s I had in the garage to give it a little extra strength. Finally I added some steel netting from the old chicken house over the vent and sealed the edges around the roof with 1×4’s and extra OSB underneath the overhang and put on the roof which measures 7 feet long by 5 feet wide. Finishing the chicken coop is not absolutely necessary, after all it’s just a chicken coop.
After a lot of research I found that 6 inch fence pickets and 1×2’s was the best option at the lowest price.
The one thing I have left to do is decide whether I want to stain it or paint the chicken house…I’ll let Lisa decide, and maybe she will do it!
I know these aren’t the most detailed instructions, but if you decide to give it a try and have any questions leave a comment below or send me an email, I will answer you to the best of my ability.
Like I said, I am not construction worker and I learned how to build this chicken coop as I went and it has exceeded my expectations.
Filed Under: DIY Prepping, Featured Posts, Off The Grid About DaleSurvival and being prepared should not only be a passion, it should be a lifestyle. Enter your email address to subscribe to Survivalist Prepper and receive notifications of new posts by email.
Before discussing the parts of a knife we must first discuss what type of knife we are discussing. They might say that if a folding knife is all you’ve got in an emergency, then it’s a survival knife. Although terminology can get out of hand, it’ll help to make a quick mental picture of a ‘standard survival knife’ (a slightly fictitious concept) and its associated parts.
For example, a bolster is usually a protrusion of metal between the blade and handle that protects the hand.

Fortunately, for everyday use of a survival knife you don’t need to know the fine points of knife nomenclature, but in order to handle and maintain the knife you should instantly recognize these parts of a knife: point, blade, edge, spine, guard, handle, and butt (or pommel). Obviously, the blade is the most important part of a knife, which we cover in four Survivor Knife 101 articles.
There is one very important part of a survival knife, which needs a separate illustration – the tang. While full tang may be intrinsic to a survival knife, how the handle incorporates the tang varies. Extended – The tang extends beyond the handle at the butt, usually functioning as a hammer surface.
Skeletonized – The tang metal is hollowed out, to cut weight and often to make a storage compartment.
Tapered – The tang is tapered from blade to butt to gradually reduce the size, thickness, and weight. Several of the tang styles (stick, skeletonized, tapered) deliberately cut tang metal to reduce weight. Utility knives, such as the survival knife, will more often feature a heft that feels solid and strong.
Another point, full tangs that expose the metal at the butt, especially those that flatten out into a pommel, are particularly good for hammering and batoning techniques. Other than that, you have to rely on manufacturer reputation, knowledge of the materials and your own sense of the handle. The style of the tang (see above) may determine something about the design of the handle, especially with a full tang where the metal is usually exposed. Likewise, the material of the handle comes in every type, synthetic and natural, including Kratan (synthetic rubber), molded plastic, leather, nylon polymer, hytrel, polyester elastomer, nylon resins, epoxy resins, or even the bare tang. These three parts of a knife: bolster, quillon and guard are difficult to categorize because sometimes they’re part of the handle, sometimes part of the blade or tang, and sometimes they’re not part of the knife at all.
As mentioned earlier, bolsters are protrusions of metal that more or less cradle the hand, either at the point where the handle meets the blade or at the butt of the knife. When there are guards on both edges of the knife at the handle, each is called a quillon (kwil’ en). Unfortunately, for many knife manufacturers, even reputable ones, the sheath is an afterthought.
There are many types of sheaths, different in materials, attachment capability (MOLLE), body position and storage capability.
Because a survival knife is on the relatively big side (it’s certainly not made for pockets) and intended for routine use (meaning it should be quickly accessible), it pretty much has to have a sheath. Whatever your preferred position, make sure the sheath comes with or can be fitted with appropriate strapping to keep the knife in the sheath and keep the sheath in position on your body.  You may even want a ‘quick draw string,’ one that holds the end of the sheath down to allow unhindered removal or replacement of the knife – much like gun holsters had for western gunfighters. Some sheaths are designed with additional storage space to hold a sharpening tool and knife oil.
Instead of diving straight into the technical details of a survival knife, let’s start with something very basic –  Survival Knife Uses.  Most everybody knows that survival knives are fairly large, arguably around 6 to 8 inches in blade length with relatively thick blades and sturdy construction.
If you’ve read Survival Knives 101: The Uses of a Good Survival Knife, you’ll know that the name of the game for this type of knife is versatility. It would be simple to say that when you purchase a survival knife, especially an expensive one, what you’re paying for is the best knife steel, or the quality steel of the blade. There are thousands of blade designs – wandering through a well-stocked knife shop or website can be bewildering. Knife Brand – Ultimately, the reputation, policies and specifications of a brand (knife manufacturer) are the only things short of your own field-use that indicate the quality of a survival knife.
The Zombie Apocalypse Store is located close to the Strip, so if you are visiting Vegas, it’s not too far away. Never heard of this place but I’m sure my hubby would drag me out there for the Venison Jerky alone. By Dale 23 Comments In my attempts to learn more skills that could be valuable in any post collapse society or shtf situation I decided to try my hand at making a homemade long bow. Now that this has been successful, she might come home to a few branches missing off of the ash tree very soon. I will however go through all the steps in the process and add the videos here in this article to save you time searching around if you decide to try your hand at making a homemade long bow too. I didn’t use Gorilla Glue because after doing some research I found that Titebond III wood glue is better for bow making because it “flex’s” and lasts longer. You can also use wood like Hickory, White Ash, Green Ash, Black Cherry but Oak is just fine. I chose maple for this because I wanted a different wood grain, but you can use the Oak if you like.
In this video he used epoxy, I decided to go with fiberglass tape because I couldn’t find the epoxy and glue is cheaper. Take your time with this though, the better you do at this, the better your bow will perform and reduces the risk of snapping.
The notches are cut 1″ apart (angled up) and the scale under the tree will give you the pull weight.
Be prepared to test, sand, test, sand, test, sand until you get the bow to bend evenly at different pull weights. This video shows how easy it is to get it to fit your hand even if you have minimal wood working skills.
You will need to round off the tips of the bow, down the edges and make everything look nice and professional before your apply the stain or finish. I put stain on this bow, but on my next bow I might just use the urethane because it shows the wood grain better. It would have been a lot easier with a jig saw and a sander, but the reason I wanted to try this is to see how difficult it would be to make a homemade long bow without access to electricity. I took the strands out of the 550 so it would lay flat on the handle and used some Coban behind the paracord to give it a better grip. If I did or you have any questions about making the long bow, leave a comment below and I will let you know what I did. The definition of a prepper is "An individual or group that prepares or makes preparations in advance of, or prior to, any change in normal circumstances, without substantial resources from outside sources" Like the Government, police etc.
I was really fun to make and other than the time it takes waiting for everything to dry and tillering it was pretty easy. You will find thickness to poundage graphs online or in books like “Flat Laid long bows by Aussie Alan Clerk at Cross Bow developments Australia, Use Bow-Tuff fibreglass outside laminations as this is where the real power is stored in a leaf spring like a flat laid long bow. Thank God it survived the first bending, but there is a huge difference in the bend on each side.
By Dale 4 Comments If you are thinking about getting chickens or have chickens already you know (or will know) that buying a chicken coop is a large investment. The problem was that over time the chicken coop began to fall apart because it was it was exposed to the elements and made from cheap materials. I have had very little experience with construction so I can say that this is a fairly easy project and takes about 30 hours to complete. I purchased the $70 pneumatic brad nailer and small air compressor. You will also need regular construction nails. We have our chickens fenced in so this just sits on the ground, but you can also add a fenced in area underneath if you need to.

To keep these upright you will need to fasten a temporary piece of wood angling from the wall to the foundation.
Don’t worry about the front wall or yet because it will be 3 different 2 foot wide sections. I made another frame for the door out of 1×4’s to make sure it was square and fit with the hinges.
When you nail the door frame to the chicken house make sure it stays level and square, it will save you headaches when you put the door and hinges in.
You could just paint and waterproof the OSB and call it a day but if you want it to last more than a few years you will want to put some siding over the OSB and 2×4’s.
It was fairly easy to trim the chicken house out, it was just a little tedious because every piece needs to be measured individually. As with most things that people prize, collect, and use, almost everything about knives is up for discussion and often disagreement. We’ll look at some of these points of agreement in detail throughout the Survival Knives 101 articles. This article covers the other parts, which are also important to the overall quality and use of the knife. If there is any unanimity of opinion about survival knives, they should have a full tang, one piece of steel for blade and tang, roughly the same width and thickness, extending to the butt of the handle – in other words, one piece of steel all the way through the knife.
If done properly these styles can retain strength and durability but are usually not recommended for survival knives.
Still, the weight and feel of a knife is mostly a matter of personal preference, as long as the inherent strength of the knife isn’t compromised. Determining these things when you buy a knife is difficult; mostly they require a lot of field experience.
Fit and feel are highly subjective, but you can get a decent impression on the first opportunity to handle the knife. However, manufacturers have found innumerable ways to shape, fit and attach handles – sometimes concealing tang types, sometimes not. Keep in mind the handle should also feel right when wet, covered in sweat, iced over, or dirty. Regardless, they all do about the same thing – protect the hand, either from slipping off the handle (possibly onto the blade), or from being struck by something else (like an opponent’s blade). If they’re long enough, the bolsters also act as guards, protecting the hand from being struck. Manufacturers and reference works often substitute guard, bolster and quillon, which make it difficult to arrive at a precise definition, but really, the fact is most knives, including survival knives, try to cradle and protect the hand. Most of the time, the butt is the generic name for the end of the handle, while a pommel is a specific piece – either part of the tang or an end cap – that reinforces the butt so it can be used for striking or hammering. Many of them are not well designed, or at best, minimal in quality or not appropriate for the way you intend to use the knife.
It’s up to you where to mount it – hip, belt, shoulder, chest, thigh – although most supplied sheaths are belt or hip mounted. Mattie is quite the expert, so if there is ever such a thing, I know our family will be in good hands. Noelle found a Hello Zombie t-shirt that she thought would be perfect for Comic-Con this summer. I would recommend stopping in and checking them out — it makes for a cool photo opportunity and you can even pick up one of their t-shirts so you can brag to your friends back home that you went to one and only Las Vegas Zombie Apocalypse Store. My plan original plan was to make the long bow the primitive way and use one of the branches off of our ash tree.
In this article I will explain how to build a super simple chicken coop, but depending on your needs this might or might not be the best option for you.
Here are the materials I bought for this chicken coop, If you have some of these building materials already you can reduce the cost quite a bit.
Later on I took the ramp from the old chicken house and added it to this one (not pictured here). So if we say, for example, that “a knife that folds is not good for a survival knife” probably ninety percent of knife experts would agree, but there will always be those who dispute it. As you’ll see, survival knives are about versatility but in a different way than a Swiss Army knife or a multi-tool.
However, if there are two at the blade in a cross formation, they are called a quillon or crossguard. More than anything, this illustrates the essence of a survival knife – the emphasis on strength and durability.
Knives used for quick manipulation with the hand, such as for skinning or fighting generally are lighter in weight. You need to trust the manufacturers of reduced and skeletonized tangs that cutting away tang metal hasn’t affected the ability of the knife to take leverage and torsion. For example, any environment where dropping the knife risks permanent loss, such as the sea or in the high mountains, having a lanyard around the wrist is good insurance.
In survival knives, a pommel is common, as it adds the ‘hammer’ functionality, even if it is limited. Of course, you pay for it and finding just the right sheath to fit the knife may not be easy.
As someone who isn’t into survival gear, I was actually hoping for even more novelty zombie items, but I would imagine the average survivalist would say there was too much novelty zombie stuff. I think there was stun guns somewhere too, although I either missed them or I wasn’t paying much attention. We still joke to this day that his Dad could never find or keep his flashlights because Little David always found them and took off with them.
The kids also got some jerky to snack on and some zombie target practice sheets, which Mattie uses with his Nerf guns. I understand why people might like zombie movies, but I don’t get how it got to the point where there are zombie themed stores and people actually take the concept of zombies seriously. I believe cooking doesn't have to be complicated or fancy to be memorable, so I share easy recipes that get you out of the kitchen fast. Similar principle is used in katanas: hard edge to keep the slicing power, in bows case, making it resistant, snapping it back to the original shape. Survival knives are about versatility and strength; being able to do jobs that require a lot of force, for example, chopping wood. You’ll see illustrations of the parts of a knife all over the internet and the differences in terminology may be confusing. There was many years that Little David got a flashlight in his Christmas stocking or as one of his birthday gifts. They’re also inexpensive, which causes some folks to turn up their nose at them despite the fact that they are tough and don’t become brittle in subzero temperatures.

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  1. NaRkAmAn_789 writes:
    Risk, so should avoid all massive.
  2. turkan writes:
    Suffers from Stupidity (There are ways to set this up so the particles from the underside.
  3. KAYF_life_KLAN writes:
    Able to just drill the holes.
  4. DeLi writes:
    Otherwise be injured by winds or abundant manufacturing.