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30.07.2016 admin
When it comes to making sure that you’re able to survive everything that Mother Nature throws at you, you need to go into any situation prepared with the very best outdoors survival knife you can find. Luckily, our list of the top 10 wilderness blades will help you to make the right kind of investment. Getting any of these will make you more prepared than anyone else would be! However, some of our options are better than others. There is a real reason the United States Marine Corps issues KA-BAR fighting blades to each and every single one of their enlisted men and officers.
They have been giving these ever since the World War I as this is hands down the very best model ever crafted and created by Ka-Bar. Most of the other solutions on this list are much thinner, but many of them lack the strength, durability, and reputation that this brand and model has built up over time!
This brand has been designed and developed from the ground up by a team of former special operations members. After all, SOG stands for Special Operations Group, and all of their products live up to incredible expectations! Their Force model offers a 6-inch blade, making it relatively more compact as other products on this list (especially the KA-BAR mentioned above), but it is still a durable and reliable knife for survival situations. Sharp & strong – Featuring a straight edge across the board (and a full tang that goes entirely through the handle), you’re going to be able to count on its professional performance times again – even if you don’t give it the kind of care and maintenance you should! Great look – With a black matte finish, this tool has a slightly dangerous look to it!
Size – The biggest knock against this knife is that it is a little bit on the large side.
Amazingly affordable, you should be able to purchase SOG Force for under $100 (with discounts) all over the place.
Firm grip – You’ll also be pleased to feel just how strong and “grippy” the handle feels – thanks to black Kraton rubber used throughout. With this option, you know that you are dealing with a blade that has been designed to withstand years and years of use (and abuse).
Medium length – That’s exactly what you’re going to be able to take advantage of when you use the Becker BK2 Campanion. The drop point also helps it to be more stable during “rough work”, giving you the confidence in your gadget even if you haven’t been using it all that often!
Though not “original issue” to any of the United States military groups, infantry members in the U.S. One of the more adaptable “fixed blade” solutions available that has just small enough of a footprint to fit perfectly on a flak jacket without getting in the way (while still being amazingly useful). Partial serration – Offering a partial serration (as well as a straight edge), this version is useful in various scenarios. Urban usage – There is a plexiglass punch included at the bottom of this model to break windows for urban survival.
At just $65 (I was able to find discounts for this product online), it doesn’t get a whole lot better than this!
This is a kind of knife that is also going to hold its edge far longer than most other solutions available on the market right now due to the vanadium steel that is used throughout. It has been crafted in the form of a “modified” tanto blade. This is making it amazingly useful in many situations where a straight version simply would not be as effective or maneuverable. Better handle – The grip has been reinforced and encoded with a “non-slip” rubberized material, guaranteeing that it stays in your hand regardless of how much you’re sweating, how much rain or snow continues to dumb down from the heavens, and irrespective of whether or not you are wearing gloves. Pay attention: A little bit on the expensive side, you need to expect to spend around $240. As far as traditional knives are concerned, you’re not going to find a knife on this list with more history than the Buck 119 Special. The most popular fixed version for hunting, survival, and wilderness made by legendary American crafter Buck.
There is a real reason why generations of hunters, explorers, hikers, and those that just love the outdoors continue to turn to this model times again. Universal usage – With a full straight edge across all 6 inches, you’ll be able to use this particular tool for much of the “fine” work you may have to take care of around camp – but it’s also large enough to tackle most of the “heavy lifting” as well. Medium price – Often offered online for less than $50, you may not find a better model on the market right now.


An instant classic and since the moment that it was first created, this continues to be one of the top knives accessible year in and year out.
Anyone that has spent some time out in the woods knows just how crucial it is that all of your tools do “double duty,” so to speak. You’re going to need to bring stuff that can take care of a multitude of other things. This particular knife is going to fall into that “multipurpose” category – just because it doubles as a fire-starter that you can use reliably in a pinch.
Regular maintenance – Sure, ESEE Laser Strike uses high carbon 1095 steel (the choice of high-end knives around the world) – and yes it will rust or stain if you don’t maintain it regularly – but there are so many benefits to using this solution that far outweigh the drawbacks.
Sharp edge – So long as you can properly lubricate and clean it on a routine basis, you’ll be able to count on a durable cutting edge that stays razor-sharp far longer than traditional steels would. Lightweight, flexible, and one of the top currently available, for $120 or so as this is a bargain basement purchase you can rely on. Sturdy – Built in the same mold of the traditional fighting blade, this is the kind of “heavyweight” tool that you might need to call upon in any different number of situations – especially when your life or the lives of those closest to you are on the line. Looking a bit like a “baby machete”, the RAT-7 version is more than prepared to do the bulk of the “heavy lifting” when it comes to life around camp or surviving in the wilderness. Though there are probably better knives available all throughout this list, if you’re looking for a budget based solution (that comes in at a cost of somewhere around $100 or less), this is a tool that you can rely on while moving forward through the wilderness!
Hi, my name is Jim and my motto to live by is: Hope for the best while prepare for the worst. I have never had much luck with the smaller S&W knives but I have heard that the larger ones are made by a different manufacturer.
Would you like to learn how to protect yourself from the elements by making expediant primitive shelters, using different natural materials, and also different construction techniques? Learning to build an expedient survival shelter will provide you with the skills to protect you and your group from excessive heat loss (hypothermia), excessive heat (dehydration), and will provide shelter as an emotional boost. Here I make a propane gas forge out of a large #10 steel can, and homemade refractory lining and a new burner design. However, if you are looking for a quality made “full tang” knife it’s hard to find more than two or three models any better than this one! Not only is the 6-inch blade amazingly durable (and razor-sharp), but the steel that it has Black Tuff-Ex™ finish, so it holds its edge even after hours and hours of use. Because the company that stands behind this model provides you with a full lifetime warranty!
What is more, you will be able to use it instead of various other tools due to its strength and durability!
The dual combination allows for cutting through the rough material on one hand and also for “fine work” – however, there are other “extras” you can take advantage of.
What is more, it can be converted into a spear or a hammer in an instant and included sheath comes with an integrated sharpener that you’ll be able to use to maintain its edge on a regular basis.
Learning to build expediant primitive survival shelters and to recognise natural shelters in survival situations, can mean the difference between life and death. It will give you a positive outlook on survival situations, and help you maintain your comfort. Learn how to recognise what makes a good site, and also what materials will help you build a better shelter. The survival rule is that you do not spend time on building a shelter if nature has already provided shelter for you. The type of hardwood will depend on where you live, but include woods such as maple, beech, oak, ash, yew, hickory, black locust, and orange.When you are out in the forest, you might not know what types of trees are around you.
If it breaks but in a way that bends the fibrous interior of the branch, it is ideal for bow-making.Once you find the right wood, you need to find a good piece of it. One end will already ideally be tapered to half an inch, but you will need to shape the other end to match.Shaping the BowIt’s important to work with the natural shape and tendencies of the wood. Your branch will have its own way of moving and bending and when learning how to make a survival bow, you need to familiarize yourself with the natural tendencies of your wood.Place one end of the branch on the ground and place your hand on the other end.


The inner part of that bend is called the belly of the curve and outer part of the bend is called the back.Once you found the natural curve of the branch, mark three inches on either side of the center of the branch.
Then place one end of the branch on the ground and hold the other end and push the handle of the branch.Anywhere along the end of the branch closest to the ground does not bend easily, use a sharp knife to whittle away the wood from the belly until the right bend is achieved. The final result should be a branch on which both ends bend evenly to form the shape of a parabolic curve (think satellite dish).Finally, when learning how to make a survival bow, you will need to know where to place your notches to hold the bow cord. You must tiller the bow, which is one of the most important parts of learning how to make a survival bow.To tiller the bow, hang it horizontally on a tree branch by its handhold.
If the ends do not bend by the same amount, then you will need to remove wood from the belly on the limb that bends less. Once you get to your maximum draw weight and both ends flex evenly, you are done shaping the bow.Testing the Poundage of the BowPart of learning how to make a survival bow is learning how to determine if it has the desired draw weight.
The weight registered on the scale is the draw weight of the bow.You can also hang the bow the same way you did to tiller it and hang a hanging scale on the bow cord. Here is a video that shows you how to measure the draw weight of your homemade bow:Making Good ArrowsWhen learning how to make a survival bow, you need to be able to make good arrows to go with it.
You can have the best survival bow in the world, but if your arrows aren’t good, the bow won’t matter.
Fortunately, arrows can be made easily out of any number of wood types, such as many fruit trees, willow, maple, or dogwood.Any wood that has straight-grained shoots or branches will work. Any thinner and they will be too weak to be of use and any thicker and they will be too heavy.Just as when learning how to make a survival bow, when making arrows you have to make sure the shoot or branch is straight and doesn’t have a lot of knots or branches. Ensure the narrow end of the shoot is wide enough to be notched for the bow cord without compromising the integrity of the wood.
You can use a knife or sharp stone to cut off any branches and smooth out any bumps on the shoot.The first thing you need to do with the shoot is remove the bark.
If you have time, the preferred method is to let the shafts dry for a month, after which the bark will flake off. If you need your arrows more quickly, then strip the bark off it using your knife or a sharp-edged stone.Just be careful not to remove the white material under the bark or make the arrow too thin in the process.
If you have been able to dry the shoot, then sanding it will be easy and should be done with medium-grained sandpaper.The shoot must be absolutely straight so you will need to remove any bends in the wood, no matter how slight. If you look down the length of the arrow you are making, you can judge if there are any bends, even slight ones, in it.These bends are removed with the use of heat, so you’re going to need a fire.
You can then sharpen the end of the arrow with a knife or sharp stone so that it forms a sharp point. However, if you want to take out anything bigger than a rabbit, you will need a stronger point.If you are making arrows at home and have access to steel, you can make awesome arrows heads with that.
There are also plenty of materials in the wild you can use to make an arrowhead, such as rock, bones, and seashells.Choose your material and the use a knife or saw to help shape the arrowhead.
A small saw is ideal for this, but you can manage with any sharp tool as long as you are careful not to split to wood.
In a pinch, you can lash the feathers or needles to the arrow shaft at the narrow end just below the notch for the bow cord.
You can have the best survival bow in the world, but unless you take care of it properly, it won’t be of service to you over the long term.
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