How to worm bin composting,gardening ideas for the front yard,eat to live grocery list pdf free - How to DIY

06.01.2014 admin
Worm composting bins can be constructed in minutes, and provide a great way to reduce your household waste while producing useful and nutritious compost for your houseplants or outdoor gardens. Drill about 20 holes in the bottom of the storage container, spacing holes evenly across the surface. Add the first meal of kitchen scraps to one corner of the bin; rotate corners every time you feed the worms.
It’s basic stuff, but the increased crop productivity, and long-term benefits of vermicompost are undeniable.
Chambers estimates that there are between 10 and 12 million worms working on his farm on any given day.
Lots of folks buy Chambers’ worm compost, from high-end Napa Valley wineries to celebrities with names like Oprah and Martha.
It's easy to find 18-gallon tubs, a popular size for worm composting bins, at hardware and department stores. Worms are available to order online from various retailers; buy one pound of worms for every half pound of kitchen waste you produce daily.
This may take 3 to 4 months to happen completely, or you can harvest as you go, though you may accidentally take some worms with you into your garden using this method.
Though it's tempting to get rid of your dog or cat's waste this way, their feces can contain diseases that can infect humans. It contains five times more nitrogen, seven times more phosphorus and 11 times more potassium than ordinary soil.
Soil conditioned with this “black gold,” is what keeps many farm and garden operations from going under. This is subject to what Chambers calls the “pre-composting phase.” The waste is delivered to the farm and pile composted at high temperatures to kill weed seeds, and pathogens.


After their work is done, a blade slices off the finished compost from the bottom of the rows. “We might slice a couple worms, but most are in the top six inches of the bed because that’s where the food is,” explains Chambers.
That’s when Chambers’ crew bring out the “worm separator,” a giant rotating disc that pushes both worms and compost through a long rotating screen. Alternatively, you can grow your own “black gold” in your backyard or apartment. To be master of your own worm farm, round up some simple materials and some red, wiggly employees, and get to it.
Add the garden soil, and leaves if using, to the newspaper; the soil helps the worms digest the food scraps you'll feed them. Dog and cat feces should never be used in worm composting.) Place the lid with ventilation holes on the bin. To harvest the entire bin and retrieve your worms for a fresh bin, put the compost in cone-shaped piles on sheets of newspaper outside in the light. Feces are generally not recommended for composting, except when using compost pile methods that generate extremely high temperatures that can kill these organisms.
It’s vermicompost – super soil produced as a result of the digestion process of the humble earthworm.
It improves soil structure, increases yield and even improves the taste of fruits and vegetables, and makes them last longer in the field. And, it doesn’t require fancy chemicals or industrial packaging. The heavier material goes into a wheelbarrow and the worms are screened out and fall into a waiting bucket.
Once your bin is all set, bury a small amount of food scraps and let your worms loose on it. Worms naturally go for the dark, so they’ll bury themselves in your table scraps.
To avoid fruit fly infestation, and worm escapees, take a few sheets of wet newspaper and lay them flat on top of your bedding. Then take a few more wet sheets and roll them up.
This project is fun for families, too, with the wriggly worms teaching us how nature processes what looks like garbage into fuel for life.


Chambers bought the 1-acre operation in 1992, and since then, he figures he’s diverted 1.8 million tons of food from entering landfills by recycling agricultural waste, and selling worms to home composters. Each of the beds are 80 feet long and measure five feet across. Then the worms do the dirty work. Tuck them around the corners to form a seal so that everything stays in place and your worms are protected.
You can then retrieve them and add them back into your container with a fresh set of bedding, leaves and soil, then begin the composting process all over again. To get some, without using fancy machinery, lure the worms to another area of the bin with fresh food. In a few days most of the worms will be working the new area, so you can carefully scoop out the finished compost. So, if you put in roughly 1 pound of worms, try putting in just about a pound of scraps a day. Don’t worry if you put in too much or too little, just make sure you add a variety of food scraps, so that the little guys will have something to munch on. You can feed them every few days, or as infrequently as once every two weeks. Just make sure you replace the food that is disappearing. You’ll see that some foods break down quickly (like ripe fruit) and others take forever (like root veggies and cabbage).
You can also detach the top bin and pour out the “juice” that accumulates in the bottom bin.
To avoid bad smells, bury your food scraps underneath some bedding and vary the location of the food throughout the box. This stuff is like a high-energy drink for your plants. Dilute it or aerate it and feed your houseplants.



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