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14.01.2015 admin
We were considering a pot garden but I think I would really to like to venture into things that need deep ground like corn, onions, garlic and broccoli.
Raised beds are usualy beneficial if you live in a challenging climate with cold winters, poor soil and or to wet or 2 dry of a climate.  They make things a bit easier, but limits the spread of beneficial soil organismsm which creates good soil. Jessi - I've admired raised beds, but never had one of my own, so I'll let others speak to that. The big problem is no one uses the path to the front door except for the occasional deliveryman who’s new on the route.
Despite the fact that no one uses the front walk, I maintain the illusion that this is the way into the house. You know, I might (might) be a sinister fellow, but I love the idea of a beautiful walk to the front door and it’s not in fact a front door.
And when I got to the end where I’m supposed to write about how I plan to solve this problem (spend $100K on the remodeling plan that goes through my head daily), I just clicked publish. I also like how you offset the straight path with those curving beds and arcs of lawn in front of them, Craig. I am on a corner lot, and have mock terraced both sides of the corner, 3 beds on one side, and 4 beds on the other, with a trianbular bed of roses at the actual corner. I still have weeds, but they aren’t nearly as noticeable, with all of the flowers growing. My front door is also never used, partly because, like yours, it opens right into the living room, and partly because the side door opens right onto the driveway, so everyone getting out of a car (99% of our visitors drive a car to get to us) naturally gravitates to that door. The people who lived in our house before us outlawed use of the front door and never let anyone set foot in the living room. Craig, you’ve mentioned lack of light before…maybe seal off that door for good and make a nice big fat window there that looks onto the fabulous plantings? In my day job, I work as a communications specialist in the Department of Horticulture at Cornell University. My great uncle, Father Romauld was a Franciscan monk  (seen here with my brothers and sisters, and my Edie Gourmet look-alike Aunt Helen) and to my recollection he wasn't stinky, laughed a lot, and was sweet, short, bald and loud. Later, as a throw away remark, he asks me if I ever worry about being abducted from my front yard while gardening. About ajuga-transplanting time, a buddy of mine working on the windows of a two story house across the street, descends from his ladder to stretch HIS back and say hey. Lawns, paths and hedges are all a major part of the framework of a garden – they are the backdrop and the foil. Areas for sitting or sunbathing could be hard surfaced or gravelled instead and surrounded or patch-planted with low-growing plants such as chamomile and thyme. Grassed areas can be established in three ways: seeding, turfing and cutting the natural cover regularly. For most grassy areas, hard-wearing recreational rye grass mixtures are a better choice than the less competitive fine grasses intended for bowling greens. When sowing a lawn it is a good idea to include seeds of companions such as dowers, chamomile, creeping thyme, daisies, yarrow and other scented and pretty turf plants.
Turfing is the most expensive way to get an area grassed, but is less work than seeding and gives more rapid results.
Cutting the natural groundcover regularly is the slowest method of getting a good sward, but produces the most ecologically balanced mixture of plants with the minimum work and expense. Scarifying with a wire rake in the autumn or spring is hard work but benefits the sward if done once every few years.
The regular cutting of grass is best done with a rotary mower that can collect the clippings. Although the design and shape of lawns and grass paths must be aesthetic and practical, they also need to be kept neat. Using a nylon line trimmer first greatly increases neatness as it can be used not only to do the edges and to cut around trunks and bits the mower cannot reach, but also on the awkward and difficult spots, further simplifying the work for the mower. Because hedges need to grow densely, the ground must be well prepared and weeds controlled for the first two or three years until the hedge is well established. Young hedges benefit from a temporary screen to reduce wind damage, but do not make this too close or dark or it may kill the foliage. George’s “Pennsylvania Month-by-Month Gardening” helps you know when to do what in the landscape. Some of the best gardens come in small packages, like this Buffalo Garden Walk garden built by Arlan Peters and Dom DeFillippo.
This statue at the Guercio residence in Buffalo is a good example of an eye-grabbing focal point. This entry was written on August 9th, 2011 by George and filed under George's Current Ramblings and Readlings. In order to achieve the best match, use the same kinds of plants in the side garden as you did in the front and in the back garden. Some people don’t really have the imagination and the creativity to do something big with their side garden, but you don’t have to be one of these people. If you put shrubs or fence around the side garden, nobody will see it and you could turn it into a nursery with a potting bench. In case the side garden is on a slope, you could make it easier to maintain by getting rid of the grass.
You could add a courtyard feeling to the side garden with the help of lush planting at the edges.


Garden for some men and women might be an important component and can not be separated from a property. Unfortunately, the side door opens right into the kitchen, so it becomes the de facto mud room–and looks it. We have four doors that come into our farmhouse, but none of them have any problems like your front door! The setting is so charming, and it looks like you get some lovely light effects there as well. In very small gardens, give serious consideration to dispensing with grass altogether, saving the need to buy and store a grass cutter as well as liberating ground space. In the largest gardens grass is a sensible groundcover because it is relatively easy to keep neat and tidy, though can be time-consuming if poorly planned. Seeding gives you a choice of grasses and the option to include companion plants; it is not expensive but is quite hard work.
The former prefer limy conditions and produce a tough sward productive of grass clippings and resisting weeds and disease. Of course if you are a recidivist and desire pure grass, then you can choose this, but mixtures are more interesting and ecologically sounder as well as staying greener in droughts. The area still needs to be dug, enriched and levelled, but much less thoroughly, and weeds can often effectively be ignored — many will be killed by the disturbance, by burying and by the grass cutting that follows. The procedure is the same as that for regularly maintaining or improving an existing sward and basically consists of making the conditions most suitable for grasses and unsuitable for everything else.
Acid-loving weeds can be discouraged and the tougher grasses aided by liming heavily twice a year with calcified seaweed or dolomitic lime.
Cylinder mowers are not as good in damp conditions or with longer growths and mowers that do not gather the clippings build up too much thatch. With areas near the house the cutting needs to be weekly; further away and in orchards you can get away with fortnightly and in wild areas once or twice a year, but then these are no longer swards.
A nylon line trimmer is also good for trimming grass to different heights depending on the situation. They are much more ecological than fences as explained earlier as they warm the garden and provide a nesting habitat as well as decoration. Cut back the sides and top hard each and every winter until the hedge is nearly at its required size, then cut back again in late spring and once more in late summer for the neatest effect.
Even in yards no bigger than kitchens, what really looked great was having dedicated little spaces. That could be a simple waterfall dropping water into a small pond, it could be a waterfall dropping into a buried container with a pump at the bottom, or it could be a plug-in fountain. With fencing (which most Buffalo city yards have), the canopies of small trees and the use of vines on trellises, it’s amazing how private a space can be when neighbors are a sunflower-seed-spit away.
They tend to plant around the perimeter with a patio off the back door and one, big, open grassy yard in the middle.
Here’s something else most people overlook: little eye-grabbers that add a ton of interest and personality to a garden. Your plants might look great, but they usually look so much better when you add just one well-placed accessory. In bigger gardens, you run the risk of having a jumbled mess if you don’t work in bigger masses. A small yard with a few masses of a few plants won’t have nearly the interest or seasonal change. Our goal is to offer our valued clients dependable lawn care that is performed by experienced and knowledgeable staff. We take great pride in providing our clientele with quality lawn care with that personal touch.
Find out why so many homes and business entrust their lawn care and yard maintenance to DJ’s. Although it is true that you have a lot of work to do with it, it also offers you a lot of options. It is also a good idea to leave a view from the front to the back because this way you will achieve the illusion that your garden is larger than it actually is.
In these planters you could put asparagus plants, and so the garden would be beautiful and low maintenance in the same time. There are some clumping types, such as black bamboo that spread slower than the other, more aggressive types. You can put the plants in holing beds until you decide what to do with them and you can also start new plants. Also consider buying or building a bench that has doors so that people won’t see what you are storing under it.
The geometric paving adds a little more fun to it and a lush container garden could become the focal point of the side garden.
Attempt to take benefit of the garden about the house as a gathering location that blends with nature.
If they are in poor condition they draw attention to themselves instead of enhancing the rest of the garden. Grassed areas do compete with the plants in them, but grass clippings can be collected to use as a mulch (they are especially good for roses, shrubs and soft fruit) and to suppress grass around and underneath trees. The area needs to be dug, de-weeded, levelled and raked to a seedbed, removing all stones and rubbish.


The fine grasses can make a showy sward but do not take hard wear and prefer acid conditions, which in turn favour mosses and turf weeds. Concerned gardeners should be aware that much turf comes from unecological sources such as old meadow land, and that it is frequently pre-treated with inorganic fertilisers and herbicides. If the area is too rough for a mower or contains hidden junk, use a nylon line trimmer or brush cutter for the initial attacks. Patches of clover which stand out green in times of drought are blended in by sowing clover seed in the remaining areas, as clovers are of immense benefit to the lushness of sward. This frequency of work means that a few minutes saved each time adds up to many hours in a year, so careful planning and possibly redesigning can be well worthwhile. It is really worthwhile reducing the amount of edging that needs clipping by amalgamating small beds and borders into bigger ones. For example, either side of a close mown path in a wild area or orchard the grass can be trimmed a foot or so high so that it does not fall over the path. Most hedging plants are best spaced at about a foot to two foot apart — closer for small hedges and wider for tall ones. Really, the idea is much like how we break the inside of our houses into small parts (rooms) through the use of walls and doorways.
Find out why we are known for our attention to detail as well as our dedication to customer service and satisfaction. In case you happen to have a front and back garden, it might be a good idea to create a small side garden, just to create a link between them. As an example, you could use bamboo to create a screen and to add some shadow to the garden. We are daily publishing decorationg ideas, interior design ideas ,home design tips, creative ideas and very useful tips for you. Then ground rock dusts, ground seaweed and lime or calcified seaweed must be incorporated to enrich the soil.
Oversow with tough grass seed and keep strimming till the growth becomes a rough sward, then mow once a week from early spring to late autumn, returning the clippings. This same feed can be used annually in spring, but I use diluted urine instead and sprinkle this on the turf during light rain. With a nylon line trimmer the height of cut is so adjustable that chosen plants can be left standing alone after others around them have been cut hard back. Informal hedges can have scented flowers, but clipping them into a formal hedge removes the flowering shoots and thus also any fruits. Like everything in the garden hedges benefit from monthly sprayings with seaweed solution during the growing season. For the first year, you might want to try regular in-ground plots for some things - green beans, cucurbits, onions, garlic, corn, broccoli - and growboxes for other things - peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, salad greens. I might have to adopt this policy as I’m always out back in summer, and the doorbell rings, and I never know it.
The first flush of weeds can be raked or flame-gunned, then the area sown in spring or autumn with grass seed.
Give the young grass a cut and a roll when it is more than toe high; thereafter mow regularly and walk on it as little as possible for a whole growing season. If you like you can reduce the height of the cut gradually, but I prefer to keep it set as high as possible. It is absorbed rapidly and is converted by the sward into lush growth that can soon be removed as clippings for mulching elsewhere. Do the same with odd little corners where you have to push the mower in and out several times.
Cutting grass and weedy areas with a nylon line trimmer can thus encourage bulbs, primroses, cowslips and violets as the area can be kept neat without becoming overgrown and choking out these treasures.
Informal mixed hedges are rarely pruned or cut once established; they are effectively just long, narrow shrub borders which take up a lot of space but produce a beautiful flowering screen. Sloping the plants over at a 45-degree angle gives a lower, thicker base and interweaving can increase this, giving a low, dense hedge from fewer plants. Rosette weeds such as plantains and thistles may survive scarifying, cutting and soil improvement treatments, but they can be hand pulled with a sharp knife severing deep underneath at the same time – they rarely regrow. Long paths should be made just to fit a given number of passes without leaving an odd strip which you have to go back over and finish up at the wrong end. In heavy shade where ivy often predominates as groundcover, weeds such as nettles growing up through it can be eradicated and returned as shreddings at the same time.
Arranging your plantings so that there is a shrub or fruit bush deserving a mulch near to hand each time the grass box gets full can halve your working time.
If you have to take the clippings far, a wheelbarrow will consolidate several loads in one trip. It was SO hard when daughter was little and the dog was young and only wanted to play with the plastic seedling containers and all I wanted was some peace and quiet and time to dig in the dirt! But, of course, time passes and now daughter is grown and on her own, miles away, and dog is no longer in this world…but now I live where neighbors stop by all the time.



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