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22.03.2014 admin
When it comes to survival knives, there’s generally only 5 main design areas to a good survival knife. This type of blade will have the whole metal part running through the knife from tip to pommel end. You quite often find that a cheaper knife will barely have any tang at all, thus making it very weak and liable to snap if any pressure is put on it. This type of blade offers you a combination of half smooth and half serrated – the serrations are used for cutting as on the Gerber, Bear Grylls Survival Series Ultimate Knife, Serrated Edge and are ideal for cutting rope or through small twigs of wood.
Serrated blades are not particularly a good choice when being used for hunting and skinning. This style of blade is generally the preferred blade grind by most survivalists and anyone using bushcraft skills in the wilderness. It’s a full length edge along the blade which makes it an ideal edge for wood splitting, wood carving skills and is definitely the better blade for any skinning and gutting work.
As usual, it goes without saying that a cheap, normally foreign imported  knife will have a thin blade – so keep away from them.
The type, design and form of your survival knife blade determines what survival and bushcraft skills you can easily perform. There are several types of knife blade to choose from, however, if you are after a very specific style of knife with certain, unique personal features and a certain style of blade, then your only option is to have the knife hand made by a knife craftsman.


The drop point blade – This knife is the Gerber Myth Fixed Blade Pro, Drop Point, and has a nice chunky, thick end at the point.
The grip of your survival knife is one of the essential things to consider when using the knife for long periods of time.
It must be a comfortable fit in your hand, but the grip must also be strong and solid,  as you may well require your knife to be used more as a hammer to bang in nails or to break glass or even using as a ‘non lethal  self defence weapon.
But, the main thing to consider over the actual material is,  as long as your knife handle feels comfortably and sits nicely in your hand, that is the main thing.
A solid knife sheath is the last essential bit of kit to make your survival knife complete. A basic sheath is designed to carry and protect your knife but, the trend nowadays is to incorporate  knife sharpeners and straps to fit your leg and Molle bag straps and other gizmos – not necessarily needed but quite handy to have. In fact, for skinning, filleting and fine bushcraft carving, this is one of the best knives around, if not, THE BEST skinning knife for the price. Mora 2010 bushcraft forest knife review - survival blog, Mora 2010 bushcraft forest fixed blade outdoor knife – amazon.
Morakniv bushcraft survival knife - willow haven outdoor, A impression review morakniv bushcraft survival knife mora sweden.. Mora garberg bushcraft survival knife, The mora bushcraft survival knife trade show received bit brainer.


It will still have good, overall knife strength, but can offer some additional features to the knife itself. They tend to rip into the animals skin and make a real mess – generally avoid serrated knives for hunting and stick to a smooth blade.
The typical style of bushcraft smooth edged knife would be a Mora Companion, as shown here. The fact that the edge goes along the full length of the blade makes this a very easy edge to sharpen.
Many by very good, reputable manufacturers, which offer you the ability to store something in the handle, this could be some matches or money or a fire starter or a small map maybe –  but consider these two very important main points. Normally, anyone involved with bushcraft would never advocate a non full tang knife, but I have my reasons, as I will explain later.



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