The copy of earlier insurance policy effectively owns the car until the designated proprietor or driver of the vehicle. There is an app for Apple and the.

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Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.Ask follow up questions if you need to. OK, I can give more info, the truck doesn't run bad once running, about 10-15 minutes into a drive it will start to buck and cough occasionally.
Hi again- there is no learn mode in the DRB, several techs advised me wrong as they were thinking of a different version than the vin 6 24v diesel.
Have you tried while the truck was running, pulling hard on all the connectors and harness to see if the truck runs differently? Yea, thats pretty much where your cummins controller comes into play because since its not OBD2 compliant. How check vehicle specification vin number ehow, How to check a vehicle specification by vin number. In any event, don't jump to conclusions until you've made a thorough inspection of the steering gear, suspension, wheel bearings and tires to determine the exact nature of the problem.
The best way to inspect a front mounted rack & pinion steering unit is to use the "dry park" check.
You can't see looseness in the inner tie rod sockets with a dry park check because the bellows are in the way. Lock the steering wheel, raise one wheel off the ground, then grab both sides of the wheel and try to rock it back and forth. The presence of power steering fluid in either bellows of a power rack indicates an internal seal leak, and unless you're adept at overhauling power racks yourself, a leak means a replacement rack.
If your inspection uncovers a problem with the inner tie rod sockets (or the rack itself), the next step is usually to pull the rack.
One you've extracted the rack from the chassis and have it on your bench, mount it in a rack vice or clamp one of its mounting ears in a bench vice.
Hard plastic bellows, on the other hand, are more resistant to ozone and oil contamination than rubber so it might be argued that replacing plastic bellows as a preventative measure is unnecessary. Jam nuts or staked housings can be loosened with a crowfoot wrench, pipe wrench or locking pliers (on the socket housing, not the rack!).
On sockets held with a spiral roll pin, use an easy out tool or a small slide hammer to extract the pin from the housing. How the inner sockets are installed will depend on the type of rack and replacement socket used.
With OE multi-piece type sockets, however, the socket has to be torqued until the specified preload is established -- which you measure with a pull scale. Thread the jam nut and new socket onto the end of the rack and tighten to the manufacturer's recommended specifications.
Once you've finished your inner socket R&R, be sure to refill a manual rack with 90 weight gear.
Center the rack, and position the new bellows so the rack has its full range of travel in both directions.
When the rack goes back in the car, most experts recommend installing new mounting bushings. On Ford racks with three mountings, tighten the center bushing first, then the two end bushings.
If you need further assistance with any of the issues below, please do not hesitate to make a new thread. Or upload it to the post by going to the "Go Advance" post tab next to "post reply" at the bottom then to "Manage Attachments" near the bottom. Fuel gauge doesn't work- A common problem in these trucks are gas gauges that put out erroneous readings.
Unfortunately, at some point, they integrated the fuel sending unit with the fuel pump, so not all years have a separately serviceable sending unit. Truck will not start.- A common problem in the trucks, primarily ones made between 1993 Through 1995, was failure (corrosion) of the splice that feeds battery power to the automatic shutdown (ASD) and fuel pump relays.
Daytime Running Lights (DRLs), how do I disable?- Simply disconnect the electrical connector from the DRL module.
My dash lights do not work, but they illuminate my radio and heater controls- The connector on the back of the instrument panel is not making good contact.
My truck idles odd, or does not idle at all- It could be an Idle Air Control (IAC) motor problem. My heater blower doesn't work on all the settings- Chances are that the blower resistor block is faulty. While 1996 model years ARE fully OBDII compliant (code scanners will work), you still have to use the "count the flash" just like previous years. How do I check my automatic transmission fluid level?- Start engine and bring it to operating temperature (usually done by driving a several miles). Tune-Up, What to do?- Spark plugs (avoid "multiple-electrode" plugs [such as Bosch+2,+4]), spark plug wires, distributor cap, distributor rotor (located under the cap), air filter, PCV valve, and crankcase breather filter fuel filter are all things to change or at least inspect.
Jack up one tire if you have an open diff, or both tires if you have a working posi or locking differential. Where can I find more information?- As gb6491 pointed out, many libraries have access to repair manuals, either in print, or on-line.
Here you will find Technical Information and help about automotive and electronic producs and services.
Do you know or have any information that you think would be helpful to the community and would like to share it in this blog?You are welcome to post it if you would like to! What are those infamous IAT resistor mods and performance modules and how do they compare with real EPROM racing or performance chips? Just like your PC, car computers or ECUs have a CPU (Microprocessor or Microcontroller), RAM memory and a boot device. Once you put your car key to “ignition” or “on” position, it powers up the ECU, among some other circuits, and right after it is powered up, it immediately boots from the memory chip and reads the operating system from it, which is the program that will run and control the ecu itself and the engine. When an aftermarket memory chip is installed in your car’s ECU, you are changing the program or operating system running it.
The IAT sensor is a passive or discrete electronic component that will simply vary its resistance depending on changes in temperature (also called a thermistor). It is accomplished by putting a fixed resistive value (fixed resistor) instead of the regular IAT sensor, simulating a cold intake air situation. Even more and more people that have bought those IAT mods are claiming that it does nothing.
If you successfully modify the IAT sensor and the engine makes some noticeable changes, remember that the air will not be truly colder or denser, so no extra oxygen will really be present, ending up in a richer mixture, higher emissions and very probably lower performance, unless your car is already running way too lean because any previous modification or any existing engine problem and a richer mixture will benefit its performance. If you live in a cold area, you will notice no difference as the original IAT sensor installed in your car will already be in a better resistance value than the one you would insert.
Regardless of the all mentioned above, if you finally make the car computer do a positive modification by installing that 10 cents resistor, remember that changes will be on the factory program range limits or specifications anyway, as the chip or computer program is still the factory installed one. All IAT sensors have two wires, but though many of them are installed alone in the incoming air path elsewhere after the air filter, some of them are incorporated inside the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor assembly.



In the first case, the installation is done by disconnecting the plug to the IAT sensor and inserting the resistor leads, making contact with the IAT sensor plug connections (the part that goes to the ECU and NOT the part that goes to the sensor).
In the internal IAT sensor case, you will need to cut the two wires that connects to the internal IAT sensor to some length, to attach the resistor. Now, since the resistor has a fixed value and the IAT sensor is out of the circuit, resistance will no longer vary with temperature. After connecting the resistor, just make sure it is covered with tape or any other insulator and you can leave it hanging in a safe area on the engine bay as long as it doesn’t receive too much heat. As mentioned before, the resistance values of the IAT sensor averages between 4.7k – 5k, but if you want to try the exact optimum value for your car, just take out the IAT sensor, if it is the stand alone version of course, and put it in an ice bath prepared in glass or cup. If your IAT sensor is the MAF type (5 wires) you can not submerge it as it will be damaged, but you may find a component cooler spray sold for electronic circuits thermal troubleshooting and spray it directly over the IAT sensor inside the MAF assembly and then measuring it with the ohmmeter before it warms back up. Make sure that the MAF sensor is completely dry before installing it back, since cold spraying it will make some condensation moisture. Those shiny small boxes called “performance modules” that comes for a variety of models and model years, mostly with 4 wires coming out of it or even with a power select switch or rotary power control are the same cheap resistor, boxed, given fake attributes and some of them added a fancy control (variable resistor or potentiometer) along with the fixed resistor or a switch to select from different resistor values or “power ranges”. People no longer wanted to buy a 10 cents resistor for $15-$70, so they boxed it to make it look cool and hide it at the same time to avoid recognition, making people think that it is something way much more sophisticated than a simple, cheap and most of the times, non working resistor. This time it is selected a resistor with lower value to be fixed as the minimum circuit value. In this case, minimum resistance will be the value of the fixed resistance, which is 220 ohms (equals to hot incoming air) and can be adjusted by turning the potentiometer all the way up to the sum of both resistors, which in this case will be 220+10,000 ohms = 10220 ohms, making it equivalent to very low temperatures. I personally bought one once from an online store and it didn’t even was enclosed in a box. I was told you can connect a 20 k adjustable resistor pot in parallel to the original car IAT to retard the timing is it true? You will also feel a loss in power due to that, so if you feel the loss, then the resistor is doing the job. As for the potentiometer, I think that using 20K for that purpose is in the right track, since that value would cover 99.9% of the values presented in an IAT sensor.
As a final comment, as you mentioned that are using HHO, please note that as noted above, the fuel injected will also be less. Well, if you refer to modules like the one offered by Superchips, for example (Micro Tuner), they do work as they are a completely different approach. They connect to the ecu through the OBD-II (diagnostic) port and reprogram (flash) the internal memory, inserting a performance program. It is done through the diagnostic port because most 1996 and newer vehicles did not come with a replaceable chip on their circuits.
With those modules, still assuming we are talking about the same modules, performance varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. Once you connect it to your vehicle and perform the first programming, the VIN number or any other code is automatically stored on the device for it to identify your vehicle.
If the modules I described are not the ones you refer to, just reply to this thread with details so I can help you better.
The only thing I has changed from instruction that instead using the clip to connect the wires, I sliced out the wires and connecting them to make sure that they have a good contacts with each other.
No offense, and if you feel it works, nice for you, but sure you haven’t tried a real chip or a real tuning.
From the same seller, here are some people that think different than you do, just to list a few. It is part the buyer and part the people that keep sponsoring such actions by buying his fake products. I could make it falter, rev a little further past that point, and run fine, and drop the revs and come back down and make it fail again.
I am almost wondering if I should not pull the whole harness off, strip it open and inspect it all. Does the Chrysler DRB monitor the data, and determine if there is a problem with data transmission?
The module is located on the passenger-side inner fender (engine compartment) near the firewall. As stated in the above paragraph: For clarification purposes, the use of "ATF+4" on transmission fluids labeled as such (not to be confused as "recommended where ATF+4 is called for") is strictly licensed from Chrysler. Rotate the tire one full revolution for posis and lockers and 2 full revolutions for open diffs. It is similar to Chilton's in price and material, it will run you $25 at most parts stores. In the case of the newer OBD-II cars (1996 and later), manufacturers use a different approach, being either an EEPROM (also called E2PROM) or (more commonly) FLASH ROMs. It could be either slight changes or a major reprogramming, depending on the intended purpose and the chiptuning Company. It has a negative coefficient, meaning that the higher the temperature is, the lower the resistance it will offer to the current flow and vice versa. This swing is caused by the mentioned variation of resistance of the IAT sensor, that at the same time causes variation in voltage drop.
Cold air is denser than hot air, having higher mass by volume, meaning more oxygen content.
Going back to the facts above, “the higher the temperature, the lower the resistance”, to benefit form this modification, we would need to make the resistor value high enough to make the computer “think” that the temperature is low enough. It is probably attributed to the fact that not all cars depend only on the IAT sensors alone to make the necessary changes. If you live in a hot area (tropic, desert), it will be worse than the ones in a cold area, as even less oxygen will be available for the combustion. All changes made by sensor modifying (any sensor), will stay in the factory specs since sensors can be read but can not bypass or override functions in the ECU, unless a memory chip with a modified program (performance chip) is installed. You can experiment it yourself if you are a little skeptic about this or just want to try it (I would do). The trick is to replace the IAT sensor by a resistor with a “cold temperature” equivalent resistance value, similar to those mentioned above. In that case, the MAF sensor connector will have 4 or 5 wires, where 2 of them will be connected to an internal IAT sensor. This will help in (1) knowing where to spray with the component cooler can when measuring for best value and (2) you can determine what wires are connected to it by using an ohmmeter, measuring between the IAT sensor leads and the connector wires. That is, you will connect the resistor to the cables going to the ecu, but will leave the sensor in its place.
The car computer will permanently think that incoming air is very cold as long as the modification is in place.
Leave it submerged for 1 or 2 minutes and measure the resistance across the two connecting wires or terminal with an ohmmeter, preferable a digital one, in the 20K or equivalent range. Probably you won’t find an exact commercial value that matches the measurement, but you can get the closest one.


Some sellers went farther than that, making people believe that the resistor was “tuned” specifically for your car model.
That is, instead of having a fixed 4.7K resistor as a total and absolute value, it is made adjustable by placing a potentiometer in series with the circuit. In this picture, it is shown both pictorial and schematic versions for better understanding, along with direction of maximum and minimum resistance. I mention that just in case you are counting on the actual fuel supply and haven’t consider a variation (injection). Instead of being a plain resistor, they are complete hand-held micro computers, each one programmed for specific cars.
It will be the same as installing a performance chip in your ecu, with the exception that such modules often offer a menu with different performance levels to choose from. One good thing is that it stores in memory the original contents of your ecu, in case you wish to go back to stock mode. Since this website is mainly oriented to gasoline models, I can not comment on this and will be open for discussion for Diesel savvy people. It has the transfer pump recall completed, where the new pump is installed in the fuel tank.
When it is cold, it will be hard to start, but once started, runs OK until it starts to buck. The diesl shop is suggesting checking the Tone wheel for the crank sensor (which by rights should throw a code, but never has) and I am going to hook up the Labscope to the crank sensor (Which is newly installed) to see what kind of signal it is giving.
This could also cause intermittent problems, or could possibly "kill" the truck when driving down the road. You should probably cover both ends (on the unit and on the connector) with protective tape. It has a pintle that moves in and out (to control air flow to the engine when the engine is idling).
If the other tire spins the opposite direction you have an open differential, and if it spins the same direction you have a posi (LSD) or a locker. You may change between economy and power or just go back to stock (factory) settings any time.
These EPROM chips contain the ecu’s operating system and operating parameters data, and hold it even if the power is removed from the ecu for any amount of time, even years, due its internal architecture. Both methods are very similar to an EPROM device type, but with newer features, like on board re-programming for example. The ECU will also read from the same memory chip, the parameters data, which is the data that will tell the ecu how much fuel to inject, how much ignition timing to apply, what to do if the engine is hot or cold, etc. The new parameters programmed on that new memory chip will hopefully affect the behavior of the ecu and its response to the different signals received from the various engine sensors in a positive way, aimed in the direction of more power, or to accommodate new engine hardware like a Turbo system, aftermarket camshaft, or any other modification that require an ECU reprogramming. The voltage fluctuation at the output of the resistive network will be interpreted by the ECU as a direct reading of incoming air temperature variation.
That would hopefully induce the ecu to inject more fuel and advance ignition timing accordingly, in an attempt to compensate the supposed incoming cold air. So, it is very probable that modifying the IAT sensor of your car will do nothing, or at least nothing noticeable.
If you live in a high altitude area, you will have similar or worse luck that the ones in the hot areas as oxygen and pressure progressively decrease with altitude, even if it’s cold.
You will either need to find the stand alone IAT sensor in the incoming air path or identify the wires connecting to it on the MAF sensor connector if it is internal.
You must cover the other remaining two cut wires with electrical tape or better, with a terminator connection for protection. For example, if it measures 4633 ohms, then a 4700 ohm (4.7k) is a very common commercial value and will do the job just fine.
You may go from performance to stock and back as many times you wish, as long as it is used in your vehicle. If using a metal runner on the ram air intake, it will work even better if you insulate it with a heat resistant material like that used on air conditioners that is made of foil and glass fiber.
How in the world can it save fuel if it is injecting more fuel in the case that it would work??? We tried a used ECM, a new ECM that was reflashed by Dodge x2, and four new injection pumps have been installed.
I t will buck a dozen times, then smarten up for 5 minutes, then it will stall whenever you try a hard acceleration, even in neutral. This truck never has the same problem twice, it always changes, it wont start 5 times in a row, with coughing and stalling, and the next time it will start and idle perfect. The splice is located underneath the Power Distribution Center (PDC), which is the black box located behind the battery. The result will be a change in performance that will depend on the program written in the chip. It helps to the understanding of this, knowing that a mixture of air and fuel (gasoline in this case) will only be highly flammable at certain proportions.
Color rings for a 4.7K resistor will be Yellow – Purple – Red with either a Gold or Silver fourth ring.
The less heat the runner absorbs from the engine, the cooler the air will enter the engine and since cooler air has more oxygen concentration, will turn in even more power! So we ordered a new APPS from dealer (they had it in stock) bolted it on, truck would not even start.
The last time I parked it after towing back from diesel shop to our shop, I accidentally left the APPS unplugged- it started and idled perfectly to drive around- does this mean anything?
Check transmission fluid (remember, engine must be running, transmission must be warmed up, transmission must be in neutral, and parked on level ground). Some models use central axle disconnect (CAD) similar to Wrangler, others have no disconnect system. It will do a hard start, with black smoke on startup, 5-10 times in a row, then run fine, idle fine to get back to the shop. Turning the tire for twice the number of full revolutions and dividing the drive shaft revolutions by two will give you a more accurate reading. They just have several internal resistors in parallel of the same resistance value to save space in circuits. We never lose power or ground to the fuel pump control module, ASD relay, or fuel system relay. I did the slow pedal push 5-6 times now, the truck will start and idle now, 9 times out of ten will rev when the throttle is jabbed quick, but once in a while will stall on a quick accel. Talked to Taylor Auto Tech line, he said there is an APP learn mode on the Chrysler DRB II to learn it, any suggestions?



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