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MOBILE HOMES, DOUBLEWIDES, TRAILERS - home - CONTENTS: Mobile home, trailer, doublewide, manufactured home inspection & troubleshooting guide. We address all of the major parts and systems of mobile home structures and suggest field inspection procedures as well as common hidden problem and common repair procedures.
Steve led our interest in mobile home inspections by offering us an opportunity to join with him to work pro-bono in behalf of agricultural workers in the Hudson Valley -- a service which we continue in his memory. Definitions: What is a Mobile Home, Trailer, Doublewide, Modular Home, Factory-Built Home, Panelized-Construction-Built Home? The following is the opinion of the author and has not had a technical review by other industry experts.
We found so many unsafe and un-healthy conditions in the trailers and mobile homes occupied by migrant farm workers that there was almost no safe habitable housing at the facility. Many of the photographs used to illustrate defects and needed repairs at these mobile homes, trailers, and double-wides came from Steve or from our own photos when we worked together.
Definitions: What is a Mobile Home, Trailer, Camper, Doublewide mobile home, Modular Home, Factory-Built Home, Panelized-Construction-Built Home? Modular vs Panelized Construction an explanation of terms and how to identify these structures. The double-wide home shown at left, as seen from a distance, appears to be in good condition, but only on close and thorough inspection can we become confident about the condition of and potential safety hazards at any home. Question: How can I track down what's causing high moisture in a doublewide manufactured home?
A competent onsite inspection by an expert usually finds additional clues that help accurately diagnose a problem with too much moisture in a home. That said, gee, with absolutely no information whatsoever about the home you mention, I'd be just arm-waving to offer a specific diagnosis. Leaks or moisture sources that are wetting the building interior or its ceiling, wall or floor cavities or space below.
Check the crawl space for signs of water entry right in the crawl itself; the skirt around the mobile home can keep the area from drying out.
If I'm right that you're in Colorado, you're not in such a high humidity area as the Southeastern U.S. If the moisture is uniform around all of the interior of the home I suspect it could be coming from a source that would equally wet the whole structure - below the entire structure up through floors, or leaks across a wide area of roof. If your renovation permits, you might need to make some test cuts to be sure you know where water is and is not, and to be sure you're not renovating by putting a new skin over a rotting or inset infested structure. Sorry I can't be smarter but that's about as much arm-waving as I can dare with no more information. At WATER ENTRY in BUILDINGS we collect a series of building moisture or water entry diagnosis & cure articles that might be helpful. We have seen several points of frost or even ice accumulation at house eaves and even deeper into the attic in uninsulated HVAC ductwork.
WATER & ICE IN DUCT WORK - occurs when uninsulated or under-insulated HVAC ducts in a cold attic ceiling receive moist indoor air during freezing weather. At Inspect Attics for Moisture or Mold we discuss inspecting (and correcting) building attics for evidence of condensation, moisture, or even ice. Continue reading at MOBILE HOME CODES & STANDARDS or select a topic from the More Reading links or topic ARTICLE INDEX shown below. Try the search box below or CONTACT US by email if you cannot find the answer you need at InspectApedia. I don't think there is a single right answer to the mailbox responsibility question as it varies perhaps by local jurisdiction and certainly by the practical matter of where the mailboxes are physically located.
In general a building or home owner is responsible for the condition of a mailbox that is attached to or part of their home or that is on their own property.
If the mailboxes at your home are grouped in a gang in a row at the front of your complex, you might expect the property owner to maintain the support system for the mailboxes.
I am interested in buying a 1989 doublewide manufactured home in a retirement community in Hudson, Florida.
Anon, I'd start outside the home, inspecting the roof and roof edges for evidence of leaks or animal entry.
Jackie: unfortunately not all professional home inspectors are willing to inspect manufactured homes, doublewides, trailers, etc.
I bought a 2008 double wide and i have this terrible smell that smells like tuna that seems to be coming from the ceilings? Don't forget to inspect and check in the crawl space too - odors travel in structures so you could be fooled about a source.
I've rarely found a doublewide that has a usable attic, though there may be access to look into that space via an access hatch or a gable-end louvered vent. Also I'm confused about "bricked-in" - use the CONTACT US link on any of our pages to send me some photos and I may be able to comment further. Question: Rental-unit double-wide mobile home with no insulation, no heat, flickering lights: is this normal?
The house has nowA  formed a gap in the floor where it looks like the house is coming apart. Do I have to pull them [wall finishes, ceiling finishes, trim] off and insulate underneath them in a double-wide? Low water pressure to a building would not normally affect the operation of a heating boiler; a service tech might indeed check water level and pressure in the boiler itself to be sure it's within normal operating levels and pressures (typically 12 psi when the boiler is cold).
How can I find the name of the manufacturer and model, and possibly a serial number of a 1971 manufactured home?
Anon I'm sorry but I don't have a clear enough idea of what's going on with the structure of the doublewide to be confident of an answer.
I can't tell if the gap you describe has been there since original construction or if it indicates more worrisome ongoing movement. If you are referring to the mating of the joists of the two halves of the doublewide at the center of the floor structure, it'd be normal for them to be bolted together. Picture two floor structures, say wood-framed, with their perimeter rim joists bolted together at the center of the combined area.



Picture a floor support on piers set both beneath the combined rim joist center girder and the outer perimeter rim joists that run parallel to the nailed-together center.
Imagine that the outer perimeter piers or foundation settled downwards beneath one or both of the floor sections. Frankie, without knowing a shred of information about the home, I'm afraid any cost guess would be just arm waving. I'm having some trouble getting any ideas on if my mobile home that I'm renting is even considered livable. Mac, indeed leaks n older mobile homes are common at roofs,moron edges, windows, doors, and can rot the structure as well as even the floor - meaning the home could be unsafe.
Donna if you can reach the holes through the register you may be able to patch them - depending on the materials used for the original duct.
A repair may be rather involved: one would have to remove the finish flooring such as carpeting from above, then if necessary cut relief kerfs with a power saw, parallel to and centered over the floor joists at the existing subflooring butt joints, and possibly add screws to secure the flooring in place. Does the damage present immediate safety hazards such as risk of collapse or inability to open emergency exit doors in case of a fire.
What is the extent of damage: we need to know how much of the home has been damaged to understand the scope of repair work needed.
What will be the cost of repairs: if the actuyal out-of-pocket repair cost approaches the value of the home then repair may not make economic sense. Where are the leaks and have they been repaired: there's no point making leak damage repairs before the cause has been corrected. From which side of walls should repairs be attempted: it may be less costly to remove interior wall paneling or drywall if that's where the damag is present. Contact a local real estate agent, since home prices vary quite widely by geographic location as well as specific lot or site properties. Question: Poor quality of windows in a 1975 doublewide home: should I replace the windows on my doublewide? I agree that the windows on older doublewides are often in poor condition, leaky, causing damage to the structure, and that they increase heating or cooling costs. What will be the pay-back period for the cost of window replacement versus reduction in heating or cooling costs? Is it possible or feasible to install outdoor or interior storm windows atop the existing windows to improve energy costs, stop air leaks and spend much less on window improvements? Dualwide Homes was a manufactured home producer incorporated in California but with a mailing address at 55 Madison, Denver Colorado 80206. However there are immediate fire safety hazards - be sure that all exterior doors can be opened.
The Section 184 Indian Home Loan Guarantee Program is a home mortgage specifically designed for American Indian and Alaska Native families, Alaska Villages, Tribes, or Tribally Designated Housing Entities.
Our recommended books about building & mechanical systems design, inspection, problem diagnosis, and repair, and about indoor environment and IAQ testing, diagnosis, and cleanup are at the InspectAPedia Bookstore.
A professional reference designed to assist surveyors, engineers, architects and contractors in diagnosing existing problems and avoiding them in new buildings. The Illustrated Home illustrates construction details and building components, a reference for owners & inspectors.
Be certain to give yourself the best chance by revising with the Official DVSA books, PDF's, Software downloads, Apps, DVD's and CD-ROMs.
Here we explain where to look for costly or dangerous problems on mobile homes, trailers, or double-wides. Vermilye of New Paltz NY (photo at the top of this page) passed away on 19 June 2001, so of course you will have difficulty contacting him by normal means. The national manufacturing and building code standards for these structures have also been improved.
Office of the Attorney General and an attorney representing farm workers made extensive improvements in farm worker housing as a result of Steve's initiative.
These could be leaks from outside or moisture generation (cooking, showers, plants, even plumbing leaks) inside.
That in turn makes me wonder if there is not either water below the home or leaks in or into it from roof, windows or doors (notorious leakers on older manufactured homes).
Observing moisture high on walls may just indicate where the cool walls are in contact with warmer, high-moisture-content air inside the home. If you'd like to send some photos or further description of what's there and what you're seeing, that may permit some further suggestions.
It doesn't have to be snow blowing into the soffits - which is unusual; anything that allows moisture condense, collect, and freeze in the attic or in attic HVAC ducts can produce such leaks when things thaw out. But certainly any individual who cares about their mail delivery will want to make sure that their box is secure, and that it remains accessible in all weather (such as deep snow cover). But it would be a false economy to hire someone who is cheap but incompetent, or even free but does not know your type of home structure well. I would certainly ask the inspector to check that area as you'll want to know about insulation and about the roof leak history.
Or do the businesses that sell them have to have to pull them off and insulate underneath them? However depending on the manufacturer it may be possible to buy these units without some of these features installed, intended to be finished by a buyer. And it would make no sense whatsoever to complete a home's interior finishing, trim, wall coverings etc., and then expect a buyer to tear these off in order to insulate the structure.
Either your heating system is not working and needs repair, or as you suggest, your unit was not properly constructed and insulated, perhaps routing heating air ducts through a cold, uninsulated space. I've kept your questions here because this is where you posted them and we want you to find our reply But details about how mobile homes and double-wide homes are built, inspected, and maintained is at MOBILE HOMES, DOUBLEWIDES, TRAILERS. I have worked with a great many different plumbing systems over the years, but I had never heard of this system before. Right before the furnace kicks on, there is a knocking sound that travels throughout the house starting out slow and getting faster and faster as it moves through the rooms. We had a local heating contractor check it out and their explanation was that the water pressure is too low.


I can say in general that structural connections are very important to prevent a building collapse or to prevent dangerous movement that an open a gas line or rip an electrical wire.
If they're through-bolted securely, say 18" on center (I'm not an engineer) I think they'd be quite secure. The floor joists are not bolted together, but are connected with a spike driven at an angle of about 20 degrees from horizontal. It is a 1979 unit that I bought a couple of years ago and I recently discovered the issue with the joists when I tore up some damaged sub-flooring. If investigation shows that that's the case (start by checking for out of level floors), the trying to pull the nailed-together center joists with bolts would be futile and risks separating the rim joist from the floor joists.
More, we don't know what underlying issues will be found, not even the size, type, age of the home. I'm not technically in a park, so there doesn't seem to be any information regarding what the codes would be. Sometimes I find that a careful inspection from below, with a food light,mlooking for leak stains, can give an idea of the areas and extent of leakage. If none is provided then the installation is a terrible one as no one anticipated the need for service, maintenance, repair - in that case you'll need to make an access opening.
For example sheet metal patching or even fiberglass and epoxy patching can work on metal ductwork; but flex-duct with holes needs to be replaced. If none of those are present I suspect that subflooring sections may be tightly-butted, inadequately supported, and buckling from moisture from the soil below.
But if the damage is extensive and continues behind cabinets or other built-in components or extends into the roof, removal of outside cladding (also a mess) may be less disruptive and less costly. The windows are single pane, I want to replace them if I buy it, with double glazed that are more efficient.
If the time period is short and the payback period long, replacement of the windows may not make economic sense. My suggestion (which means more of an expense to you than buying a manual) is to go back to your county building department to ask what other certification they will accept.
Fully revised and updated, this edition, in new clearer format, covers developments in building defects, and problems such as sick building syndrome.
The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. The risk is that the inspection is free or cheap but the cost to fix problems and surprises that such an inspector missed can be enormous.
Check first for safe and un-blocked heating and ventilation flues as a blockage there by a dead animal would also be unsafe. Also in our OPINION it is not normal for a tenant renting a double-wide or mobile home to be expected to insulate, install heat, install electrical wiring.
I can only SPECULATE that perhaps your home was contracted for and sold as an incomplete unit, or was sold for and moved from a different climate.
They put in a backflow preventor and a shut off valve off the water line so you don't have to drain the furnace to service the whole system but didn't have any other solution. But a fair rule in remodeling is to figure the end cost will be as much as twice the original estimate.
I already know I've been mislead about the condition of the place, and that IS on me, but I am seeing increasing evidence that the home is not water tight, I know the roof is bad, and I believe I can go right through the pop-out wall if I wanted to.
They have since gone out of business and I have not been able to locate the installation manual. Its registration as an active company was suspended in California on 4 May 1987 according to the California Franchise Tax Board. Normally if you obtain a statement or home description by a licensed building design professional such as an architect or engineer the building department may be satisfied. Since then the front door has been sticking and a hairline crack has appeared running horizontally across the wall from the top of the door. Well liked for its mixture of theory and practice the new edition will complement Hinks and Cook's student textbook on defects at the practitioner level. Guide to Safety and building codes for mobile homes - what building codes regulate mobile homes & doublewide homes. I don't think the renters insulated it at all.A  I pulled a piece of trim from around the slider door and no insulation there. But the lights still flicker and the fuse box blows fuses all the time (for no reason) like if I have the washer on. I am wondering if I should bolt them at the top to bring them together again, or whether I am better off leaving things as they are.
There is packing tape slapped over a large hole in the wall and painted over, so I missed finding that on my walk through, but a lot of the north side of the home seems to have rot in the walls. The county I live in requires the manual for permits because they need to know the specs for load bearing walls etc. After all, in the case of a home that is more than 40 years old, a statement of its present condition is more reliable than what might be inferred by a 1970's installation manual. Special Offer: For a 10% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order. This is at least a 78, maybe a 75 era mobile, and the master bedroom on the front got destroyed by a fallen tree a few years before I moved in.
Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, for permission for InspectAPedia to use text excerpts from The Home Reference Book & illustrations from The Illustrated Home.
They had a 12,000 volt cow fence hooked and waterA  for their 50 head of cows in when we got here. Carson Dunlop Associates' provides extensive home inspection education and report writing material.
Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference eBook purchased as a single order.



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