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If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us. If you are talking about the temp gauge on your cluster that is the coolant temp, not the oil temp. Whenever I've driven on a cold motor, I try to keep the RPM's around 2500-3k and keep it out of boost for the time being as well a waiting a minute or so after initially starting the car before going through the gears. It helps that my neighborhood is right smack in the middle of a school zone so that traffic is slowed down to 25mph when I exit the neighborhood in the morning.
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If a car has a check engine light on and has P0171 and P0174 codes stored, the most likely cause is a vacuum leak.
Mass Air Flow (MAF)Another cause of P0171 and P0174 codes can be from a damaged mass airflow sensor. Fuel Pressure Incorrect fuel pressure from the fuel pump can also rarely cause a lean condition. We recently had a check engine light come on and after having it scanned at a local parts store we replaced an oxygen sensor.
Joey, the most common vacuum leak on Explorers (around your model year) is from the intake manifold seals. Hey I found failure in my explorer 2000 in fact it was a vacuum leak, I bought some carb-clean and spray it around the upper engine running and it leak, so I took the intake out and put some engine sealer took me like and hour now my car feels great, thank you very much Dennis, you are a great dude.
Eddie, I would double check to make sure the correct sensor (there’s four total) was replaced.
Hey Dennis, my car (Explorer 2000) is showing a code and it says P1309 No DTC definition found.
Jerry, After clearing the codes, if the computer sees the same fault is present it will set the code. If I notice that a hose is a little cracked but not all the way through should I still replace it?
If all the codes are now gone except the P1000 there’s probably not a fault to worry about. Hi Dennis,I found a rubber hose elbow that collapse dimple inward on the back of intake the connects via rubber and plastic hose to the driver side valve cover, took battery off for 15 mins, turn car on No CEL after 2 hours of driving. On vehicles built before 1996, 2 digit fault codes are set by the OBD I system instead of more comprehensive 4 digit P (power train) codes on vehicles built 1996 and later that have OBD II systems. I would check specifications for fuel pump pressure – I think it should be more like 45 PSI. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Just recently I've noticed the temp gauge on my car sits a hair higher than the middle line(2nd between the 2 big lines).
These codes are set by the car’s computer when it sees too much oxygen in the exhaust.

If the reading from the mass airflow is incorrect, the computer can be doing its calculations with wrong numbers.
The fuel pump regulator could be allowing the wrong amount of pressure to be pumped to the fuel injectors. If a fuel filter is clogged or restricted this can alter the amount of fuel that reaches the injectors also.
The parts store employee had recommended the oxygen sensor replacement however the code quickly returned. They are small rubber type seals that fit into recessed grooves on the underside of the upper intake. I have changed out the sensor with a new one on drivers side closest to the bumper, wiped out the codes with scanner but the code still shows up.
The check engine light came on several months ago and I had it checked and it read lean gas. Recently have noticed alot of things acting up on the dash when it gets well below freezing outside. Fuel pressure is not likely to cause lean conditions though, due to the computer’s ability quickly compensate and adjust the air fuel mixture. We thought maybe we had a defective part, so they exchanged them and we installed the parts again to no avail, it was still stalling. A smoke test if properly done will help find the leak, no matter if it’s a PCV elbow or anything else. Two days of driving the car the engine system fault tranmission fault light came on and the begin to idle while in park or stopped at the light. The fault can many times be a bad O2 (Oxygen Sensor) sensor, also called an Air Fuel Sensor on Toyota.
It idles rough, and when starting to drive from a stop position sometimes it spits and sputters. When it gets extremely cold, you have coolant that is hitting it at -20 degrees, and the engine heat on the other side isn't enough to open it up very much. If the computer sees more air entering the engine than what is actually going in it will enrich the mixture.
After buying a fuel filter and going home my husband was about to install it when I searched online and found your article. Meaning it may be best to check for a vacuum leak when the engine is cold and heat expansion has not sealed the gaps temporarily. There are several people on Jeep forums that have replaced the MAP sensor and ECM (Electronic Control Unit) for this particular problem.
I took it to the shop for a smog after driving the car for two weeks and two of the computers hadn’t reset.
It has to do with the computer running a self check which can take several drive cycles meeting specific criteria. I suggest letting a shop keep the vehicle over-night so it can be properly smoke checked in the morning when it is cool. Therefore if the computer sees less air than what is actually going into the engine it will decrease the amount of fuel in the mixture. After explaining to my husband that the cause could be from a leaky vacuum hose, he ran the car with the hood up and we could hear hissing. We took the car to the Ford garage and had that changed, but it was still not running right. You may want to leave the vehicle at the shop overnight so the technician can check it cold.

The vehicle has to be driven certain lengths of time and under certain conditions before the computer will finally remove the P1000. Most other manufacturers put the thermostat on the hot coolant side, which is a far better location for actually reading and responding to engine temps.
Just because the code is related to oxygen sensor readings, it doesn’t mean that the oxygen sensors are bad. Mass airflow sensors can be damaged by dirt getting past the air filter and sometimes from oil that can come off of aftermarket air filters such as K&N. BTW – the reason the code was not triggered for awhile after it was cleared is because the computer requires some time, called drive cycles in order to monitor data and determine if there is a fault present after codes have been cleared. If both of these codes are stored this means that both banks of the engine have excessive oxygen in the exhaust.
K&N air filters have to be lightly oiled and if excessive oil is applied some of it can come off and end up in the mass airflow sensor. If the data monitored is not within a certain predetermined range, called parameters the code will be set and the CEL (Check Engine Light) will come on. If the oxygen sensors are replaced it’s most likely that the same codes will reappear. Although the parts store employee was trying to be helpful he was recommending replacing parts that were not bad.
Since there’s not much clearance, it can interfere with cam sensor and ruin it in the process. Another way to check for a vacuum leak is by using a propane bottle with the hose attachment. I don’t think he was doing this intentionally, but it was starting to cost us an arm and a leg!
No telling how long this would have gone on, but with your help we were able to repair the problem ourselves and not continue throwing money at the problem. By introducing propane to the area where the suspected leak is you can sometimes notice a change in the idle.
It’s important to install the replacement cam synchronizer in the same clock position, or a code may be triggered again. If this doesn’t fix the issue it may be time to let the Jeep dealership diagnose it rather than throwing expensive parts at it.
If you have access to a scan tool, checking the oxygen sensor readings or fuel trim can be done while checking for leaks with propane. If the readings increase when you are adding propane to be suspected leak area, this indicates a vacuum leak. Evaporative leaks have to do with fuel vapors and a smoke machine is used to find those leaks.
To check for engine vacuum leaks with a smoke machine, just find a vacuum hose that goes to the engine and attach the hose on the machine.
When the smoke machine is turned on, smoke will enter the engine and help reveal the vacuum leak source. It is common for some smoke to come out out certain areas without indicating a vacuum leak, so if you think you’ve found a leak with the smoke is best to double-check it to make sure.

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