My corn snake just shed,simple outdoor bench seat plans,simple wood projects for beginners - For Begninners

Published : 08.07.2015 | Author : admin | Categories : Garage Organization
Corn snakes are highly recommended for any snake lover, because they make great pets for people of all ages. Corn snakes are nocturnal and use the heat from the ground, not heat from the sun so heat lamps are not suitable. Give your snake some hiding places: You should provide some places for you snake to hide in to feel secure.
After a few days, your snake's eyes will return to normal and a few days after that the shed will happen. Leave the snake alone during the process of shedding, the snake will be very irritable and will not hesitate to bite. If your corn snake gets out check in all the small dark places - corns love being in tight spaces. If your snake is breathing through it’s mouth or hanging upside-down by the wall, it may have respiratory problems!
Some people will advise that feeding your corn snake more or more often will make it grow faster.
When a snake vibrates it’s tail and positions itself in an 'S' shape, it is agitated and may strike.
Corn snakes are one of the easiest breeds of snake to care for and they make excellent pets for first time snake owners. The internal organs of a snake are protected by a rib cage, most of the organs are long & thin, and are staggered down the length of the body. Which ever type of enclosure you wish to house your corn snake in, it is vital that all of the internal surfaces are made from non-porous materials, such as melamine covered wood, glass or plastic, this should substantially reduce the growth of mould & other nasties, also, the enclosure will be much easier to clean.
Snakes are cold-blooded reptiles and as such they can not create their own body heat, they therefore do not have the ability to control their own body temperature biologically.
Wooden vivariums are made from thicker materials, so placing the heat mat underneath the floor of one will allow very little heat to reach the inside of the vivarium, therefore, heat mats need to be positioned inside of them, usually against one of the end walls, or laid flat in one corner.
Corn snakes do not need UV light or any other lighting, however, allowing natural light into your snakes enclosure will help them maintain their biological clock. Floor covering (bedding) can be as little as a few sheets of paper towel or newspaper, but for snake comfort as well as an appealing look, reptile substrates are usually used, these are made from various wood chippings and can be found at most good pet shops. Snake waste should be removed from the vivarium as soon as possible, along with a portion of surrounding substrate, baby wipes and paper towels are good for this job, the floor of the vivarium and any other obstacles (bowls, hideaways etc.) can then be wiped clean and some fresh substrate put down. Corn snakes like to hide, I find my snakes enjoy hiding in terracotta or thick plastic pots with holes in the tops of them.
Hideaways can be anything from extremely cheap toilet or paper towel card tubes, to realistic looking caves, artificial logs also make good snake hideaways. Hatchlings and young corns should be given bottled water until they are at least 1 year old, as tap water often contains chemicals that might possibly build up in young snakes causing gastric problems which could lead to a premature death. Corn snakes can sometimes be found lying in their water bowl, the main reason for this is to cool off, especially during the summer months. This is best carried out by filling a plastic storage box with 2 ~ 3 inches (5 ~ 7½cm) of warm water, and slowly lowering the snake into the water tail first.
Try not to handle your snake prior to feeding, and for 24 ~ 48 hours after they have eaten, too much handling after a heavy feed can cause them to regurgitate. Don't offer your snake live food as this is cruel and unnecessary and can also lead to your snake getting injured, unless you are trying to get a non feeding hatchling to eat a live pinkie. Only feed your snake a rodent which is no wider than 1¼ times the widest part (girth) of your snake.
Make sure the food you offer your snake is not still partially frozen, nor too hot, both can be harmful. It is important to have a warm area in your snake's enclosure, as corn snakes need to be warm to be able to digest their meal properly, a cold snake might regurgitate their meal or have other digestion problems. Remove your snake from their vivarium at feeding time, if your snake is always fed inside their vivarium, it could lead to them striking at the hand that feeds them! Try not to handle your snake too much after a feed as this can also lead to them regurgitating their meal. If your snake refuses their food, it could be either that they have begun their shedding cycle, or that they are too cold to eat, or that the food is not warm enough, if the latter, try heating the rodents head in warm water and tempt them again. Wash your hands thoroughly after handling rodents, this is not just for hygiene, warm hands smelling of rodent are an ideal candidate for a snake to strike at! Snakes must periodically shed their outer layer of skin to leave a newer more flexible skin, thus allowing them to constantly grow. When your snake is starting their shedding cycle, the first thing you will notice is that their usually glossy skin will loose its shine and begin to look dull, a couple of days later the snake's eyes will cloud over and appear to look a milky blue colour.


A snake should shed their skin in one complete piece, but if the old skin is in pieces, allow the snake to bathe in lukewarm water for a while, this will help loosen up any pieces of old skin still attached to them.
Slipping Into Something More ComfortableEven coddled in the cozy confines of captivity, your snake’s skin wears out and requires replacement. Prepping for the PeelingThough proper husbandry should eliminate the need, pre-shed baths will help ensure your snake is well-hydrated and sheds properly. Minor ComplicationsIf things go well, your snake’s old skin will peel off in one long piece -- a scale-for-scale replica of your pet.
There are many, many different floor coverings commercially available for corn snakes but you best options are aspen chips and newspaper. Corn snakes are becoming more and more easy to obtain, but that doesn't mean you should seek them out.
Baby corn snakes are started on pinkie size mice and progress up the sizes of: pinkie mice, fuzzy mice, small mice (hoppers), medium mice (weaned), large mice (adult) and extra large (jumbo adult) as they grow. Corn snakes enjoy similar temperatures to our selves, they eat mainly rodents which can be purchased frozen, they are generally non aggressive and fairly docile, and most important of all, they are non venomous! The left lung has little or no use and is usually either very small, or completely missing, however, the right lung is very capable of meeting the snake's oxygen requirements, and can also act as a buoyancy aid in water. Much larger enclosures tend to make hatchling & very young corn snakes nervous and less willing to feed voluntarily. It is a good idea to house your adult snakes in vivariums with front facing sliding glass doors, corn snakes are not keen on anything coming at them from above and this type of vivarium eliminates this problem, also, they are easily stackable when keeping several snakes. Snakes maintain their internal temperature by moving between warmer and cooler areas of their enclosure.
If you do decide to use artificial lighting, whether for heat, light or simply to make the vivarium look more appealing, care should be taken to ensure that the enclosure does not get to warm, and that a fine wire cage is fitted around the bulb to prevent the possibility of a snake getting burnt on the hot bulb. Pine wood shavings (as used for hamster bedding and in rabbit hutches) should not be used as they can become acidic when wet which is hazardous to a snake. These make a naturally comfortable hideaway as snakes often like to curl up, also pots are easy to remove and reveal the corn snake. Don't forget to increase the size of the snake's hides as the snake grows, and if like myself, you use pots with holes in the tops of them, upgrade to bigger pots, with bigger holes. The water bowl should be refilled daily, and thoroughly cleaned at least once per week, this will prevent a build up of bacterial organisms which can be harmful to both snake and keeper. Other reasons for this behaviour may be that the snake is carrying eggs and is preparing for her prenatal shed, or because the snake has some ticks or mites that the snake is attempting to drown, or that the snake is having difficulty passing waste, if you have noticed the snake is late in passing their waste, you may be able to make the snake far more comfortable by giving them a warm bath. The snake can then be left in the water until they pass waste, they should then be taken out of the water straight away and rinsed off with some damp but clean paper towel.
They are a beautiful pleasant natured snake, easy to handle and very loveable, however, you must respect your snake and always handle with great care.
A snake with a belly-full of rodent should retire to a warm hideaway and be left to digest their meal.
Unfortunately, reptiles also carry certain strains of bacteria, so using a sanitising gel after handling them is highly recommended, but if you use these gels before feeding or handling your snake, make sure you have rubbed the gel into your skin thoroughly so that your hands are dry. Baby corns will eat baby mice (pinkies), and adult corns will eat adult mice, small rats or chicks. Corn snakes can consume prey up to 1½ times their own girth, but your snake will be less likely to regurgitate if they are not pushed to their limits. You might find that your snake eats more readily when they are left to eat in a small area, such as in their hideaway. Adult corn snakes will probably eat an adult sized meal every week, but to avoid your adult snake carrying extra fat, you need only feed them once every 7 ~ 14 days.
It is also a good practice to wash your hands before, and after handling your snake, this will be beneficial to both snake and keeper.
Corn snakes usually take 7 ~ 10 days from start to finish of their shedding cycle and during this time they are unlikely to eat and will sometimes be found soaking in their water bowl.
After a few more days, the snake's eyes will once again look clear and the snake will be ready to shed their skin within the following few days. Try to ensure all old skin is removed after the snake has shed, failure to do this could result in bacteria growing under the layers of old skin. During the early stages of the process, which takes about 7 to 10 days in total, your corn snake produces a layer of fluid between the skin layer to be shed and the layer underneath it.
In contrast to many other animals, which replace their skin in very small pieces, snakes replace their entire outer layer of skin at once in a behavior termed shedding, molting or ecdysis.
If your snake appears to have retained his eye caps, soak him immediately and make an appointment with your veterinarian.


Snakes DO in fact use UV to synthesize vitamin D3 but in captivity they don't need it because they receive vitamin D3 from the mice They eat.
Your snake should not be handled at this stage; as they may resort to self defense, wait until after the shed.
Corn snakes might be easy to keep, but they still have needs, and things can still go very wrong, so I have created this care sheet to help newbie corn snake owners look after and enjoy their pet snake. A suitably sized heat mat (no larger than 33% of the vivarium floor area) should be used to gently warm one end of the vivarium, while the other end stays cooler and suitable for the water bowl, corn snakes can sometimes be found lying in or around their water bowl cooling off. Your snake may be very nervous and more likely to strike and possibly bite after being relocated, if this is the case, allow a few days for them to settle down before handling. It is a good idea to use tongs to feed your snake as this will keep your own scent off the snake's food. The snake might also be quite restless & irritable, and they might even strike at you for no apparent reason. If the snake has not been soaking in water prior to this, then it is a good idea at this point to raise the humidity of the snake's enclosure by spraying the substrate with warm water, or by adding a bowl of damp moss to their enclosure, this will help the snake hydrate and make their shedding of skin a little easier.
Once shedding has been completed, the snake is likely to be hungry and looking for their next meal.
The fluid works as a lubricant, helping the old skin to slide off smoothly; however, it causes your pet to appear somewhat milky until shedding takes place.
The frequency of the process varies, some snakes shed every three to four weeks, while others only shed a few times per year.
Corn snakes in captivity (especially hatchlings) have been known on occasion to eat one another, with both snakes involved dying.
Feeding your snake out of it's tank is an easy solution to this and also it means that the snake does not associate feeding with its tank but be careful because if you handle your snake after a feed then it can regurgitate its meal so wait 48 hours before holding your snake again! Feed your snake weekly and give it a change of scene once in a while and it will be happy in it’s new home. Although the water dish should be on the cold side most of the time, you should put it on the hot side when your snake is in pre-shed. Vivariums measuring 4 ~ 6 feet in length are ideal for adult corn snakes as this gives them the space they need to stretch out.
This gives the snake the ability to stay hidden even when they need to change their body temperature. Corn snakes are generally quite shy and will always be looking for somewhere to hide, so when handling them, don't be surprised if they disappear down your top or up our sleeve! Personally, I use anti-bacterial liquid soap and water to wash my hands until I have completely finished tending all of my snakes.
In general, quickly growing juveniles shed more often than slow-growing adults, but reproductive events, injuries, parasites and illness can all influence shed frequency.
Do not force your snake to swim continuously -- make sure that he can rest comfortably and breathe for the duration of the soak.
The reasons for rough sheds include inadequate cage humidity, dehydration, mites, stress and illness. When the snake is small, it is ok to start your pet off in a smaller tank such as a Living World Faunarium or similar product. You can soak your snake for about an hour at a time, and repeat the process every day until he sheds.
If your snake doesn’t shed his skin entirely, repeat the pre-shed soaking regimen, which will usually loosen the skin significantly. After a long soak, remove your snake and gently rub the areas that still have the old skin.
Once you have your snake, leave it 5 days before feeding or handling it so it can settle in.
Two hides, one for the hot side and one for the cool side of your enclosure, are the MINIMUM required, while more than 2 hides are preferable, as they provide security and peace of mind for a prey species like the corn snake. Definitely join a reputable forum, and lean on the advice and experience of those who have been keeping corn snakes for decades.



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