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Corn snakes are readily available at pet shops, reptile expos, online and directly from breeders. Corn snakes hatch at 8 to 12 inches long, and most eventually reach 4 to 5.5 feet in length. With proper care, a corn snake could live at least into its latter teens, and it may well live into its 20s. Baby corn snakes can easily live in a plastic vivarium the size of a large shoebox for the first several months of their lives. No special lighting is required, but natural light from nearby windows will help your corn snake adjust its day and night cycles, and its seasonal cycles. Most breeders use aspen shavings as bedding because it is absorbent, soft and holds its shape when snakes burrow. It is important to give a new corn snake a few weeks to settle into its new home and into a regular feeding routine before stressing it with unnecessary handling. Their extremely variable and gorgeous colors and patterns, ease of care and breeding, and generally docile dispositions have earned corn snakes their rightful, premier place in herpetoculture. Adult corn snakes need a cage at least the size of a 20-gallon long aquarium, but bigger is even better.

Be careful to avoid direct sunlight shining into the cage, or the temperatures could quickly become lethal. If the corn snake sheds its skin in pieces, increase humidity inside the hide box by adding a clump of damp moss or paper towel whenever the snake prepares to shed. After three or four successful meals, start handling your corn snake for short periods, except for the first two to three days after a meal. The size of mature corn snakes is just right: big and hardy enough to accept regular handling, yet not large enough to intimidate a novice or child. Newspaper and reptile carpet also suffice, but the corn snake tends to get under it whenever possible. Place the bowl in a cage corner so it can be easily found as the snake cruises the cage perimeter at night. Although it is normal for baby corn snakes to flee, hide or defend themselves, it is also true that they have no real ability to harm you. Be sure to approach the corn snake from the side rather than the top like a predator would do. Easy to breed and care for with an endless array of genetic traits, corn snakes offer something for the newest snakekeeper, yet they also challenge those with years of experience.

Be prepared to offer a live newborn mouse to baby corn snakes stressed by a new home or not used to thawed mice yet. A white mouse or a cat that plays too roughly with its owner can do far more damage than even the largest corn snake. Climbing branches may be appreciated, but a couple of dark, tight hides are essential to help the snake feel secure. Placing your corn snake and a thawed mouse in an empty container with a few air holes and closing the lid will help the snake concentrate on the food, and encourage it to eat.
Be sure the lid is on tightly, and don’t put it near a heat source, or you risk overheating the snake.
Once the corn snake begins to realize that you are not going to eat it, and also that it needs to calm down to regain the security of its quiet cage, it will usually tame quickly and become very used to handling.
Feed baby corn snakes once every five to seven days, and feed adult corn snakes once every seven to 10 days.

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