WIZZ MAGAZINE
/
23
THE VIEW
FOOD & DRINK
WORDS BY PETERJONCRESSWELL
“Whether it’s top chefs,
VIPs or any of our
customers, we always adopt the
sameapproach,” saysMichelin-
starred chefWojciechModest
Amaro, founder and creative force
behindWarsaw’s Atelier Amaro.
“Wedo not serve thebest dishes.
We plandishes according to
seasonal produce, dishes which
wouldbe served toany guest at
theAtelier.”
Last June, on the 25th
anniversary of Poland’s first
democratic elections, the guest
happened to beUS President
BarackObama. “When I heard
that hewould visit our restaurant,
I felt very proudand excited,” said
Amaro. “On such occasions, you
feel honoured and focus on doing
your job thebest you can.”
For Amaro,Obama’s visit was
as prestigious as theaward of a
Michelin star for the second year
running, a first for Poland. It was
also the highlight of a career that
has taken theSilesian chef to the
most prestigious establishments
in theworld, learning in the
kitchens of El Bulli, LeGavroche
andNoma in
Copenhagen.
Returning to
Warsaw to open
theAtelier in
2011, Amaroalso set upa farm
outside town toproduce his own
plants, herbs andmeat. Seasonal
ingredients underpin everythingat
his restaurant.
“I createmy own versions of
Polish cuisine, dishes imbuedwith
all its distinct flavours” saysAmaro.
“Forest covers30%of Polish
territory, somany ofmy dishes
featuremushrooms, venisonand
game, wildherbs andberries. I
also servemy signaturebread
withblack onion seeds and
pumpkin seeds.”
Andwhat did he
cook forObama?Sent
to the top tablewas a
starter of asparagus with fresh
broadbeans sprinkledwithbeech
oil, followedby Polish veal with
unroastedbuckwheat. As an
alternative, codwas servedwith
spring vegetables, flavouredwith
lavender. Dessert was parsley ice
cream flavouredwith strawberries
and elderberries.
“Protocol didn’t allowObama
to come to the kitchen, but he
sent greetings via his personal
assistant,” says Amaro, “and a
bottle of Champagne. They also
said that the President was very
impressed. The plates came back
empty, which I heard doesn’t
happen often!”
atelieramaro.pl
WARSAW
WhatWill ItBe,
MrPresident?
WojciechModestAmaro tells us
what he cooked forBarackObama
when theworld’snumber oneVIP
visitedWarsaw this summer
Above:
ChefAmaro
Right:
Bird’snest
of violet flower
parfaitwith
amaranth rhubarb
