May2016
Smile
93
inSapa, but fewundertake themassive35-
hour journey (amere29andahalfhourson
the fasterexpress train) fromHanoi all the
waydown toHoChiMinhCity.There’sno
reason todo itunlessyou’rea fanof train
travel; at$90 for themostcomfortable
“softberths”, itcanbeevenmoreexpensive
thana two-hourflight. “This is themost
comfortablestandardavailable,”assures
theVietnamRailwayswebsite. “Though
itcannotbecompared toEuropean
standards,” ithastens toadd.
The trip fromHanoi toHue isadifferent
story. Ifirst traveled thisrouteoutof
necessity, since theonlyotheroption, pre-
budgetairlines,was to take thecheaper
but lessconvenient touristvans.But the
12-hour tripwasarevelation. If I’dneeded
anotherreason to fall in lovewith the
country, the trainridewas it. I’venever
traveled toHueanyotherwaysince.
Thesoft sleepersarebasic, but really
comfortable.With fourbeds toaberth,
andbeddingprovided, it’snotabadway to
travel.On this trip, though, thesoftsleepers
were fullybooked, andwehad tosettle for
theslightlycheaper “hardberths”,whichas
faras Icouldrecallweren’tactuallyharder
than thesoftberths; themaindifference
was that thereweresixbunks toaberth.
Wearrived tofind theberthalready
fullyoccupied: therewasaVietnamese
lady travelingsoloon thebottombunk,
andanotherwomanacrossher,with two
youngchildrenhuddledunder theblankets.
Twoother foreignerseachhad themiddle
bunks, soweexcusedourselves, and
clamberedall thewayup to the topbunks,
our faces less thana footaway from the
“If I neededanother reason to fall in lovewithVietnam, the train ridewas it. I'venever traveled
toHueanyotherwaysince”
1
Hue's rush-hour traffic
2
Conical hats soldas souvenirs
3
Vietnam is famous for its streetsidegrub
6
4
Thenight attendant at the train station
5
Thebestway toget around town ison twowheels
6
TheReunificationExpress
