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DELIGHTFUL DAVAO
outskirts. The drive along MacArthur
Highway towards Mount Apo National
Park gradually reveals a verdant, very
different landscape. Setting aside the
occasional shack, for the most part
it’s a scene of comfortable rural living,
complete with plantations, makeshift
stalls and roadside homes. The sturdy
road leads up a giddy incline towards
Toril, a Japanese settlement dating
back to the early 20thcentury.
Figuratively and literally, Eden
works onmany levels: it’s an undulating
patchwork of gardens, water features,
sports facilities, private cabins, a spa
and nature attractions, all connected
by walkways that provide a workout
and a welcome blast of mountain air.
The real draw for daytime visitors is
the wildlife: fan-flaring peacocks that
strut around like they own the place, a
smattering of wild horses, a deer herd
and an impressive number of rare bird
species. A sort of all-in-one family
health resort-cum-zoo, Eden also offers
a fine opportunity to soak up views of
mighty Apo. Those who aren’t inclined
to leg it along hilly trails might find
Malagos Garden Resort in Calinan
—with its orchid nursery, butterfly
sanctuary and bird parks — a satisfying
alternative. Blessed with plentiful
coastline to go with its hilly outskirts,
Davao is generally typhoon-free and
its year-round warmth and best-of-all-
worlds situation make for easy access
to islands and beaches. Though Isla
Reta (on Talicud Island, boats depart
fromSta AnaWharf downtown) is
more remote and, inevitably, more
enticing, Samal — a short sea crossing
away — is the largest and most popular
of the islands here. It’s the best option
if an idle afternoon of pristine sand
and translucent seawater — served
up in this case courtesy of Paradise
Clockwise from top: Huckleberry offers cocktails by
NYC-based mixologist Enzo Lim; the flavors and
ambience reflect the US Deep South; among the
offerings are jugs of rum infused with tropical fruit
like mangosteen; exterior view; a wicked cocktail
Island Beach Resort — is what you’re
after. The 10-minute ride from the city
in an outrigger boat (PHP40) offers a
preview of Samal’s palm-filled interior
while the return trip on the final boat
at 5.30pm boasts fabulous views of the
sinking sun as it casts an orange halo
around Apo’s boulder-strewn peak.
Local flavors
Its proximity to nature’s delights
notwithstanding, Davao City is better
described as solid and functional than
spectacular. But just about any city
looks impressive from on high and
that’s the selling point of Jack’s Ridge,
my next stop. Davao’s premier vantage
point, it’s also home to the city’s best
PHOTOS BY JOREM CATILO. ON MODEL: DRESS BY SUITE BLANCO.
