25
10.30AM:
If a cup o’ joe is
what you’re after, head to
Anthracite Coffee Roasters
(357-6 Hapjeong-dong,
Mapo-gu). Anthracite’s buttery
espressos and hand-drip coffees
are among the best in Seoul.
NOON:
While in Korea,
don’t miss the chance to
enjoy
samgyetang,
a healthy
and delicious chicken-and-
ginseng soup. Goryeo
Samgyetang (55-3 Seosomun-
dong, Jung-gu) is a local
favorite. The broth is clear,
the chicken meat is so tender
that it falls apart as soon as
you touch it and the ginseng is
high grade. You might even be
tempted to make a return trip
to try the fried chicken, which
ranks with the best in the city.
omnom
nom
3PM
7PM:
Feasting on Korean
barbecue is a must. Tong
Dwegi Jip (17-1 Donhui-
dong, Jongno-gu), located
in an alley near Jongno 3-ga
Subway Station, Exit 6, is
about as authentic as it gets.
This tiny place has an old-
time feel to it. The service
is curt and the pork menu is
simple. Pork jowl (cheeks)
and pork neck are available
but the specialty here is
pork belly — good, thick
cuts seared on gas griddles.
A tip: Put jackets and purses
in the plastic bags provided
or you’ll smell like barbecue
all night.
9PM:
Cap off your day
by going for
chimaek
, a
short-hand expression
derived from the words
“chicken” and “
maekju
” —
the latter meaning “beer”
in Korean. My go-to spot
is Reggae Chicken (317-
9 Sangsu-dong, Mapo-
gu). Its fried chicken is
crispy and flavorful, and
the dipping sauces make
it even yummier. There
are plenty of beers to
choose from, too.
MIDNIGHT:
If you’ve
watched a Korean TV
drama, you’re probably
familiar with Korea’s tent
restaurants. To see one
for yourself, head to
i
DANIEL GRAY
BLOGS AT
SEOULEATS.COM
AND ORGANIZES LUXURY FOOD TOURS IN
SEOUL. HE SHOWED CELEBRITY CHEF AND
TV PERSONALITY ANTHONY BOURDAIN
AROUND WHEN HE VISITED SEOUL.
Jongno 3-ga. It’s home to
rows of tent restaurants that
serve local favorites such as
pan-fried chicken gizzards,
chicken feet, fried squid,
spicy ramen, eel and more.
There’s plenty of
soju
and
beer and you’re welcome to
linger until the sun comes
up. You’re almost sure to
have plenty of company.
If it’s snack time, head to Myeongdong
for some street food. Enjoy giant, spiral-
cut, fried potatoes on a stick; doughy
pancakes known as
hotteok
(right) with
a filling made of brown sugar, honey and
cinnamon; and dried or grilled octopus.
Wash it all down with a cup of freshly
squeezed pomegranate juice.
