B O H O L
59
what hangs in the balance
—many Boholanos
who are accustomed to
rolling out the welcome
mat are pitching in, in
whichever way they can.
In the capital, Tagbilaran,
everyone I encounter
— from the airport staff
to the security guards,
shopkeepers and drivers
— is cheerful and quick on
their feet, even at an early
hour, almost as if to prove
that life goes on, that it’s
business as usual and that
Bohol retains its enviable
assets: historical riches, a
vibrant culture and plenty
of natural wonders.
With other journalists,
I take a quick tour of the
usual stops. First on our
list is the Blood Compact
Memorial, sculpted
by National Artist
Napoleón Abueva, a son of
Tagbilaran. Themonument
commemorates the 1565
pact between Captain
Miguel López de Legazpi
and Datu Sikatuna; a treaty
of friendship and alliance
between the Spaniards
and the Filipinos. It’s also
a reminder, along with the
churches, of Bohol’s long
and proud history, and
how significant it is to the
nation’s heritage. Then
it’s off to the Philippine
Wildlife and Tarsier
Sanctuary, nestled in the
forested foothills around
Corella town, a safe haven
for these palm-sized,
nocturnal creatures. Our
tour guide, 22-year-old
SpaniardMarian Navarro,
leads us through the maze
of trees while offering a
few reminders — no flash
photography, sudden
movements or loud noises,
please. In hushed tones,
Marian tells us of her life in
Bohol as a volunteer with
the Tarsier Conservation
Program, which she and
several others crossed
continents to support.
The draw, she tells us, was
irresistible.
The challenge
It’s only when we visit
Baclayon, the second oldest
church in the Philippines,
that we come upon the first
evidence of the quake’s
devastation. Four years
before, I was instructed to
wear a shawl over my bare
arms and wrap a
tapis
or
From top: The altar of
Baclayon Church; delicious
banana fritters for
merienda
;
enjoying the breeze at the
Ocean Suites Hotel
A day in
Pamilacan
Just a 45-minute
bangka
ride
from Baclayon (not counting a
detour to see some dolphins),
laid-back Pamilacan Island is the
place to slow things down even
more.
GET THERE
•
Coordinate with the island’s
Captain Andy ahead of time
and arrange for a seafood feast
of a lunch. tel: (928) 769 1822
•
Leave before dawn and treat
yourself to an awe-inspiring
sunrise as well as the chance for
some dolphin sightings.
•
As soon as you hit shore,
finalize your lunch plans with
Captain Andy. Order what
you like from the catch of the
day, then spend the rest of the
morning enjoying the sand and
surf — and work up an appetite
for fresher-than-fresh seafood.
Better yet, arrange a snorkeling
trip to either the Pamilacan
Sanctuary or the Coral
Garden and lose yourself in a
breathtaking underwater world.
•
If you stay the afternoon,
arrange for a massage.
•
Rent a bungalow and stay for
the night — or for as long as you
please.
GO FIGURE
Boat-for-hire:
PHP3,500 both
ways
Island entrance fee:
PHP10
Picnic lunch:
PHP250/ person
Rustic bungalow with electric
fan:
PHP800 nightly per person
with three meals
Hut:
PHP600 nightly per
person with three meals
Full-body massage:
PHP350
for one hour
Snorkeling trip:
PHP200 per
person, which includes guide
and paddleboat ride
Mask rental:
PHP150
Fins rental:
PHP150
PHOTOS
PAOLO PINEDA; JOREM CATILO
ON MODEL
CAFTAN BY REGATTA
