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FROM THE TOWN
of General Luna, on
the south-eastern tip of Siargao Island,
you can easily espy where the waves
naturally break in the sea, forming a
white line of splash in the distance.
In the days before the island made its
mark on the map as a prime surf spot,
this natural reef barrier that serves as a
marker between local waters and the
mighty Pacific Ocean was where hardy
fishermen would catch incredibly small
fish. These fish were then fermented
into
ginamus
,
a dark, briny condiment
that remains a staple on many
Surigaonon dining tables.
Now those breaks are world famous
for something else: surfing. The past 20
years have seen the island be defined
by its famous swells — many of those
who come and sing the island’s praises
are initially drawn to the big waves,
only to later discover that there’s so
much more. Siargao’s charm has
landed it on must-visit lists around the
world and all this attention is creating
a subtle stirring, similar to the first
ripples of what will soon develop into
something big.
No surprise, then, that more
establishments are popping up — from
resorts, restaurants and bars, to rental
shops. While most of the business
owners who actually live on the island
are excited about recent developments,
many of them are also visibly wary of
unwieldy growth, mindful of the way
some idyllic beach destinations have
fallen to ruin in the name of commerce.
“
You can’t say you’ve surfed the
Philippines if you haven’t been to
this island,” says Elaine Abonal of
Surfista Travels
com)
,
a surf tour outfitter. “Surfers,
bodyboarders, adventure seekers from
around the world travel all the way
over. Still, while it’s hardly a secret,
it’s not overcrowded and the vibe is
generally chilled and relaxed. You can
still experience simple island living —
going barefoot.”
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