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M Y S T E R Y I S L A N D
Jae-hong and I pushed farther to
the north-east corner of Cheonbu-ri
town and Seokpo village, overlooking
incredible vistas of the northern
coastline’s rock formations. Among
the most spectacular were the
Samseonam Rocks, which, according
to legend, were once three angels,
who were too enamored by the
beautiful coastline that they refused
to return to heaven. Consequently,
they transformed into three towering
pinnacles in the sea. I do not blame
the fateful creatures, staring transfixed
at the view. Less I suffered a similar
fortune, I pulled myself away from
the awe-inspiring scenery to finish
the day trudging back through the
forest to Jeodong-ri, the settlement
we admired the day before from the
lighthouse, where, coming full circle,
a chance meeting brought about my
most venturesome day on this mystery
island on the map.
Cebu Pacific flies to Incheon (Seoul)
and Busan from Manila and Cebu.
From top to bottom: Dense fog
covers the walkway; a bowl of
dongdongju
or traditional rice
liquor can keep you warm;
snack on huge dried squid
More hikers arrived, and more
cameras clicked to cheery counts
of “
Hana, dul, set!
”
We descended
the other side of the mountain to the
farmlands of the Nari-bunji Basin, a
remnant of an extinct volcanic crater.
Chipmunks greeted our return to the
lowland bush, amidst blossoming
asters and chrysanthemums that led
to a clearing where
tumakjip
houses
provided temporary shelter from the
rain. These traditional homes were
built with straw, logs and mud, and are
kept warm during colder months with
firewood ovens.
In the center of the valley, organic
vegetable farms surround a folk
restaurant where freshly picked produce
is transformed into delicious dishes.
Jae-hong introduced me to
sanchae
bibimbap
(
steamed rice with assorted
native vegetables), accompanied by
mandatory
banchan
(
side dishes) and a
generous bowl of
dongdongju
(
traditional
rice liquor). “Gun
bae!”
a spirited group
of middle-aged women at the next table
joined our toast to a victorious hike.
They followed the warm libations by
snacking on a two-foot-long dried squid,
the specialty of the island. Giants do
lurk in these waters, I mused to myself.
“
Eat feet — very good,” one of the
women instructed me, handing over a
withered tentacle. It was tough but tasty.
“
Kamsahamnida!”
I chimed in gratitude.
