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C A M B O D I A ’ S C O U N T R Y C H A R M
deep-fried tarantulas in Phnom Penh,
we mustered enough courage to
sample a skewered rodent. And, yes,
cliché as it may be, it did taste just like
chicken, greasy chicken. Moreover, as a
word of advice for those curious enough
to try it, it would have probably gone
down better with a can of Angkor Beer
than the sugary orange soda I had.
After having our fill, we felt brave
enough to face whatever the rest of the
trip might throw our way. On the way
back to O Dambang, our driver gave
me the chance to maneuver the norry,
which was controlled by a long wooden
pole that accelerated the engine, while
a crude pedal served as brakes. Sitting
at the helm, the rhythmic clanking of
the norry quickly became a kind of
comforting music to my ears.
The fate of the bamboo train in the
coming years, however, remains to
be seen as the country rehabilitates
its railway system. “It’s good you
ride this, because next year maybe
no more.” advised a policeman who
oversees the O Dambang station. In
the face of the nation’s unstoppable
march to progress, I do hope norries
will somehow continue running as a
humble testament of Khmer struggle,
resilience and ingenuity.
Despite being the country’s second
largest city, Battambang is a far cry
Top: Battambang’s
commercial district.
Below: Psar Nath,
the town’s Art Deco
central market.
Slow but
sure boom in
Battambang
