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that include fish, coconut chilli and
onion, all wrapped in a banana leaf and
grilled. That’s as much of the secret
recipe Kock Seong and his restaurant
chef, Wahabi Usman, are willing to
share with us.
Old school
Much of Kuala Lumpur showcases a
metropolis in a flux, where modern
buildings push through a landscape
of more traditional clusters. Kampung
Baru, for instance, is a rather provincial-
looking, largely residential sprawl in the
shadows of the capital city’s flashiest
icon, the glimmering Petronas Twin
Towers.
In stark contrast to the towers’
imposing modernity, Kampung Baru
remains steadfastly retro. Short, ageing
trees line the narrow streets; behind
them, partly obscured by the foliage,
stand decades-old homes. Children too
young for school peek out of windows
or sit on the stoop, munching on treats.
Stray cats prowl on rattan fences, look
about for some rumor of food, then leap
off in a flash.
The village feel suggests home
cooking and cheap meals in generous
servings, and true enough, we find the
original
nasi lemak
along one of its
sleepy streets. What began as a small
stall selling takeaway food is now a
roadside eatery with more behind-the-
counter staff, several wooden tables
and stools, with two other branches
propping up the franchise. Keeping the
original Kampung Baru outlet’s almost
rustic feel seems deliberate — perhaps
as a tribute to its humble roots, or in
keeping with the overall feel of the
neighborhood.
Meals here are inexpensive. Nasi
O N T H E F O O D T R A I L
Anti-clockwise from
right: KL schoolgirls
on their way home;
refreshing dessert of
durian and crushed
ice at Peranakan
Place; Nasi Lemak
Antarabangsa’s
rustic set-up; the
basic nasi lemak
plate; refreshing
mugs of Horlicks
and local tea;
choose your
own toppings
at Nasi Lemak
Antarabangsa
