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T A K E A B I T E
KANSI
Often described as a cross between
sinigang
(
sour soup) and
bulalo
(
bone marrow broth),
kansi
gets its trademark kick from
batwan, a local fruit used as a souring agent. “We also add
atsuete, lemongrass, beef shank, bone marrow and jackfruit,”
says former Nobu chef Tom Bascon, who was born and bred in
Bacolod city. Some cooks like to include long peppers for more
punch and, Inez Vargas J. Gamboa of Vargas Kitchen adds that
another secret ingredient is often ginger. “Ginger gives the rich,
translucent broth that extra zing.”
FRESHLUMPIA
“
The Ilonggo take on the fresh spring
roll is savory, garlicky and sweet, all in
one go,” JJ Yulo says. It calls for extra
fine rice paper wrapper,
ubod
(
heart of
palm), cooked pork, grated fresh garlic,
with a sweet sauce incorporated
in
the
roll, rather than served on the side.
Vargas Kitchen prepares its lumpia in a
similar fashion but breaks tradition on
one point. “With Mamita’s recipe,” Inez
explains, “sauce is served separately.
We also add tiny bits of pork fat that
are fried until they’re super crisp.” This
spin is something many self-respecting
Ilonggos have come to crave.
Ilonggo fresh lumpia can be
held in one hand and consumed
in a fewbites.
Most family recipes
require kansi to simmer
for at least three hours so
that the flavors intensify,
resulting in a throat-
soothing broth that spells
the ultimate comfort food.
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PHOTOS
JAPOI CEQUINA
Try Aida’s chicken inasal at Manokan Country
(
Reclamation Area, Bacolod City
)
Try the lumpia at Bar 21
(
21
st Lacson St, Brgy 4, Bacolod City
)
Sharyn’s Cansi House is a
good place for kansi in Bacolod City
(
Narra Avenue, Capitol Shopping Center
)
