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Gorgeous beaches are readily accessible
by bicycle or even on foot from the
island’s small town center. Located
just 4km east, the white-sand coves of
Caniwara, Sibang and Cababaan can
be accessed through a hilly pathway
leading away from the edge of town.
This pathway is lined with wild flowers
and wind-warped trees, where palm-
sized butterflies tango in the wind. You’ll
also spot all sorts of birds, both native
and migratory.
During our visit, orioles and buntings
accompanied us en route to the coves;
and, upon reaching Cababaan, a
lone sea eagle surveyed us from its
perch high above, right next to the
towering precipices.
You can also stroll from one cove
to the next, a task easily done when
the tide has receded. Effortlessly
rivaling the famed beaches of Palawan,
the secluded coves are flanked by
impressive cliffs carpeted in thickets. Tall
sentries of bare rock jutting up from the
sandy beach demarcate the coves, while
the restless ocean swirl into the inlets,
transforming into turquoise shallows
under the full sun.
But more stunning seascapes lie
beyond Caniwara Cove at Nagudungan
Hill, a craggy knoll that stretches
out to sea. A narrow and winding
pathway leads to its grassy head,
where casuarina trees kowtow to the
incessant winds that batter the island.
Nearby, a small, white lighthouse had
been knocked over and now lay on the
ground defeated.
As we ascend the hill, an incredible
vista of the triplet coves slowly
reveals itself. “The awesome views
on Nagudungan left me amazed and
speechless the first time I was there,”
says freelance travel journalist Estan
Cabigas
.
“It was so spectacular that after
almost an hour, I was still astonished
that such a place exists!” Farther away,
rolling pastures — mowed by languid
goats and carabaos — collapse into
majestic chasms more than 100ft feet
deep. The striated cliffs plummet to
a jagged shoreline with some hidden
pockets of sand. Flocks of migratory
birds, roosting high within its basalt
fissures, take off on the strong wind
gusts that pummel the landscape.
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Expect white sand and clear
waters throughout your journey;
take shelter in the shade; get to
Calayan’s beaches by bike