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C U L I N A R Y A D V E N T U R E S
WHEN PORTUGUESE
galleons dropped
anchor in Macau’s harbor in 1535, the
hundred or so families that lived on
these three rocky islands — dotting the
underside of China — were probably
not surprised. After all, strangers often
traveled this way: Indian trading vessels,
Vietnamese junks, Arabian dhows
carrying clove and cinnamon, and, of
course, a good few pirate ships. They’d
seen all sorts at this convergence of
trade routes that headed north past
Taiwan or turned south to the Philippines
and then the Spice Islands.
Local Chinese would have been
surprised, however, to learn how long
these visitors would stay (almost five
centuries!) — and at the extent to which
both the islanders’ and Europeans’
tastes and customs would be influenced
as a result.
The local cuisine is a prime example
of this cultural mix. And the three
styles — Cantonese, Portuguese and
homegrown Macanese — have profited
from the region’s rich seas alongside a
universal love of fish. One Macanese
dish that exemplifies all this sees rice
fried with flaked
bacalhau
(dried and
salted codfish), bell pepper and olives.
It’s delicious and available across town
— although a characteristic plateful can
be ordered at Chi Mei Mun Uk in the
crowded district behind Casino Lisboa.
This little café is open around the clock
— handy for some visitors to the city —
and it’s always busy, especially at the
start of the day when it serves classic
local fare like pork in a bun.
Honolulu Café is another hotspot.
This chain of 10 eateries serves some
of the best coffee in Macau — and even
offers exclusive
kopi luwak
(made from
beans eaten by civets) at about MOP120
(PHP652) a cup. But the everyday java
is unbeatable, and goes well with a
breakfast of fresh bread roll filled with
spicy mackerel.
Clockwise from left: The A-Ma Temple is dedicated to Matsu, the
goddess of fishermen and sailors; steamed
garoupa
(grouper) by
mezza9 at the Grand Hyatt; crabs in a bundle at the Red Market