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Clockwise from
top: Wat Arun, the
Temple of Dawn;
guards at the
Grand Palace; Pak
Khlong Market is
a hub of activity;
kids playing at
what remains of
the defensive
wall protecting
Rattanakosin
H E A R T O F B A N G K O K
In the early 19th century, Ko
Rattanakosin was protected by a
defensive wall interspersed with 14
bastions. A stretch of wall still stands
on the east-side canal Khlong Ong
Ang, as do two remaining forts.
Phrasumen Fort is close to Phra
Arthit pier on the Chao Phraya, while
Mahakan Fort is on Banglampu
canal. A nearby pier, Phan Fa Lilat,
is the starting point for khlong boats
that head to Siam Square and
Pratunam shopping districts.
THE DAY STARTS
at Tha Tien Pier
when novice monks gather for the
ferry over to iconic Wat Arun, the
Temple of Dawn. And as the sun rises,
Bangkok’s Chao Phraya River gets
busy. Water buses pull up and push
away; little
hang yaaws
(
long-tail
boats) roar over the backwash of
bigger boats; and occasional cruisers
drop off waves of sightseers ready to
explore. The starting point for some of
Bangkok’s top tourist attractions, the
pier is a worthwhile destination in its
own right. Start the day off with a
pad
krapow
(
stir-fry with basil) breakfast
from the hawker stalls outside in the
early morning.
The day can be finished off here as
well. Head to Boh Bar, which opens its
shutters and sets out tables and chairs
on the gang-planked jetty. When
the sun sets, floodlights bathe the
Temple of Dawn and the pier lamps
along the river make patterns on the
water. Tha Tien is the eighth of up to
37
piers served by the Express Boat
service, but I can only make out the
next pier upstream, Tha Chang, that
is convenient for the Grand Palace.
To the south around a bend in the
river, Rajini is adjacent to Pak Khlong
Market with its piles of chillis and
herbs, and nighttime deliveries of
jasmine and roses by perfumed trucks.
