110
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turtles and dolphins, I pitched my
hammock between two trees — my
bed for the next two nights. The
local surf team, Amihan Boys, take
good care of their place, cleaning the
shoreline every morning and taking
care of the turtles. One day I joined
them as they rescued a green sea
turtle weighing over 100kg, the biggest
I’d ever seen. After three hours, the
pregnant turtle laid 156 eggs on the
sand beneath my hammock. If that’s
not yet an auspicious sign in any
culture, it should be: the following
day, I went out in the surf and for the
first time ever, stood up on my board
and road a wave unassisted.
After all that traipsing around
remote beaches, it was good to
be in urban sprawl of Davao City,
where I met up for drinks with
other backpackers passing through.
Among the many ways solitary
travel is thoroughly satisfying, is
the snatches of time you spend
with other people, especially those
who share the same passion for travel.
I’d been to Mati a number of times
before, but the capital town of Davao
Oriental never ceases to spring a
surprise on me. At my favorite beach of
Dahican, a safe haven for endangered
marine life like the
dugongs
(
seacow),
T H E U L T I M A T E S H O E S T R I N G A D V E N T U R E
Cantilan wasn’t part of my original
itinerary, but was too charming not
to explore. The locals were so warm
and friendly, and fellow travelers
made for kindred spirits. I met Cathe,
a CouchSurfer, who became my friend
and guide while I was in town. The
nearest beach is 10 minutes from the
town proper. Cantilan’s sand comes in
shades of gray, brown, black and white.
After two days, Cathe invited me to
explore Ayoke Island, 45 minutes away
by banca. It’s a marine protected area
and surfing spot where some foreigners
have set up camp. While walking
around the island, I was offered fresh
buko
(
coconut) juice, and it was the
sweetest I had ever tasted in my life.
James with a 120kg
rescued green sea
turtle at Dahican
Beach; (top) the
Davao Oriental
capital in Mati is
bustling with activity
PHOTO
LESTER LEDESMA (DAVAO)
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