GetYourGoat
Mixologists arenot cryingover spikedgoat’smilk
chicago
weusecomes fromPortugal.”His
luxe tastingmenu featuresdishes
likeblackpork from theAlentejo
region servedwithclamsplucked
from thewaters justbelow the
restaurant, plusCentral European–
inspiredcabbage jusandReinette
apples—aNorth-meets-South-
Europe spinon thePortuguese
dishofporkwithclams.
Koschina, raisednear the
Austria-Germanyborder, paved
theway for this sortofhybrid
cooking24yearsago,when
he tookover thekitchenat the
nearbyVilaJoyaHotel.
“When I arrivedhere,my style
wasverymeat-oriented,”he says.
“With somuchgreat seafoodat
myfingertips, I had toevolve.”His
menu,whichchangesdaily,might
feature thecountry’s famed salt
cod servedwithbeet coulisand
yogurtor roastedgoose liverwith
pureedbroccoli and smokedeel.
In2013, his restauranthosted the
International Gourmet Festival,
and it’s currently theonlyplace in
Portugal on theWorld’s50Best
Restaurants list, atnumber22.
And lastyear, the superstar chef
landedonGQPortugal’sManof
theYear list, alongsideathletes,
fashiondesignersandauthors.
—JAYCHESHES
GOINGSOUTH
Austrian chefHansNeuner in
hiskitchenatOcean
C
heese fanatics have long loved goat’s milk for the distinctive
tanginess it imparts to freshchèvres.Now,mixologistsarebegin-
ning to spread thegoat gospel bypairing theuniquely flavorfulmilk
with spirits that show off its surprising diversity.This has resulted
in cocktail flavor profiles that range from the expected (cozy and
creamy) to the surprising (crisp and refreshing).
“I’ve always had an affinity for goat’s milk,” says Alex
Bachman, of Chicago’s Billy Sunday. “It has a similar fat
content to cow’s milk, but it’s greener—it represents what natural
milk can be.” For his luscious Box Lunch,Bachman infuses goat’s
milkwith oats and baking spices like vanilla, cinnamon andmace.
Palo cortado sherry adds a dry nuttiness, and génépi (an aperitif
made from an alpine plant) provides chamomile notes. “It’s rich
because it’s dairy, but it’s not super-heavy,” he says. “I’d describe it
as an alcoholic horchata.”
While the flavors in the Box Lunch are autumnal, the
CitizenPublicHouse of Scottsdale,Arizona, employs goat’smilk
in a downright summery concoction, a farm-inspired elixir of gin,
lemon juice, orgeat syrup and peach liqueur, topped with a sprig
of rosemary.
AtNewYorkCity’s Betony,EamonRockeymakes a strawberry
milkpunchwithgoat’smilk thathasbeencompletelyclarifiedusing
a process that involves curdling themilk and removing all solids.
The versatile finishedproduct can bemixedwith any spirit,but he
recommends lighterones likepisco,cachaçaorhispersonal favorite,
aChampagne floater.“It’s light andperfect at any time,but best in
the sunshine,”he says.
“An ice-cold glass of milk can be a really refreshing beverage,”
Bachman says.“There’sno reasonwhy agoat’smilk–based cocktail
can’t be refreshing in the sameway.”
—NICOLETAYLOR
PAULCALISTO/REDBULL
HANGAR-7 (CHEF);
MATTHIASMERGES (DRINK)
tastemakers
BOXLUNCH
Yields1drink
• 3oz. infusedgoat’smilk (see recipebelow)
• 1oz. génépi
•½oz. palo cortado sherry
Add ingredients toamixing tinand stir.Strain intoa small frozenmilk jug
andgarnishwitha candy-striped straw.
infusedgoat’smilk
•½ cupwholeoats
•½vanillabean
• 1½ sticks cinnamon
•½ tsp.mace
• 1 liter goat’smilk
•¼ cupbrown sugar
Toastoats,vanillaand cinnamon inapanovermediumheatuntil browned
andaromatic.Remove fromheatand fold inmace.Heatgoat’smilkuntil it
barelyreachesaboil, thenpour itover theoatmixture.Coverand steep forone
hour.Strainanddiscard solids.Dissolvebrown sugar in themilkand cool.
40
MARCH2015
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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
