FEBRUARY 2013
•
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
place to go on Shabbat and have a
cappuccino instead of being stuck
at home,” Klatchko says. “I wanted
to make a place where people could
feel they were being taken care of.”
That’s something she seems to
have accomplished. On a recent
Saturday morning, the diners pick
through a rack of magazines, scan
their laptops and unfurl newspa-
pers; conversations flow between
tables at a volume just below
the Ella Fitzgerald on the stereo.
“
Hili’s is like an oasis,” says Karen
Brunwasser, deputy director of the
Jerusalem Season of Culture and
a Qawe House regular. “It’s a little
patch of life on Shabbat. I bump into
all my friends there.” —W.S.
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“
Rosh Hashanah,” a dish named for
the Jewish New Year, is a leg of lamb
withwhite beans cooked all night “so
that they look likemashed potatoes,”
Chico says.
Kima
includes layers of
grilled kebab, potatoes, onions,
spinach and eggplant. There are also
several varieties of
kibbe
,
dumpling-
like treats stuffedwithmeat ragout or
Swiss chard and zucchini and served
in soup or curry-nutmeg sauce. As he
continues describing themenu, Chico
nods hello to his father, who still
comes every day in his wheelchair
to eat
kibbe
in soup for breakfast.
“
This kind of food can only happen
in Jerusalem,” Chico says. —W.S.
OLD SCHOOL
Clockwise
from left, Azura; “Rosh
Hashanah,” a leg of lamb
with white beans; one of
Azura’s antique oil-wick
stoves, called
p’tilia
