NOVEMBER 2012
•
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
under a befuddling hybrid of mashed
potatoes and shrimp salad.
Denmark loves the ropelike
rød
pølse
,
served on a paper plate with
ketchup, mustard, rémoulade,
onions and a bun on the side. Legend
has it these Slim Jim–esque skinny
sausages appeared in the early
1900
s, then sold like crazy among
out-of-work Danes in the Great
Depression, when they were dyed
red to camouflage old meat. The
gimmick proved so popular that
the beloved sausages maintain
their signature hue today despite
(
thankfully) conforming to modern
standards of freshness. —A.A.
LITTLE BY LITTLE
“
Smushi” combinations,
from left, tomato and mackerel mousse; cheese
and grapefruit; smoked salmon and pickled
cauliflower; shrimp and egg salad; veal and leek
I
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YOUR WINE
COULD
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IT WOULD BE
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stretched out the door. Recently,
chef Frederik Jensen drew on the
eatery’s collection of 500 recipes to
create a coffee table cookbook called
Royal Smushi
.
Bolstered by the restaurant’s suc-
cess in Denmark, Christiansen and
his partner, Lo Østergaard, are now
slated to open a third Royal Café this
winter in Tokyo (there’s also one in
Beijing). They expect it will do nicely
in a city obsessed with small-scale,
aesthetically pleasing food. “The
Japanese think of the café as an
adventure in trying out new tastes
and impressions,” says Christiansen.
“
Come to think of it, that is also what
the Danes think.” —A.A.
