HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
•
NOVEMBER 2012
115
TELAVIV
||
THREE PERFECT DAYS
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
THE INSIDE SCOOP FROMTHOSE IN THE KNOW
ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER JAMES FIELD
Ron Huldai
MAYOR OF TEL AVIV
“
We recently completed a makeover
of the Habima National Theatre. One
of the nicest surprises was the square
in front, designed by local artist Dani
Karavan. It’s become a hangout for
parents and kids, who love to play
among all the beautiful flowers.”
Etgar Keret
FILMMAKER AND FICTIONWRITER
“
The first things I look at in a city
are its children and dogs. Children
and animals will always tell you
where a place’s secrets are.
In Meir Park you can meet such
children and dogs, as well as
elderly people, all taking a break.”
Michal Ansky
OWNER OF PORTMARKET/TEL AVIV
FARMERS MARKET
“
Neve Tzedek, Tel Aviv’s Soho, is
packed with designer stores, jewelry
studios and small, chic places like
Nina Café. Be sure to catch a show
by the Batsheva Dance Company at
the Suzanne Dellal Centre.”
One Goldstar turns into more,
which turns into a trip to
Radio
EPGB
,
a thrumming subterra-
nean club with DJs spinning
and video art projected onto
the craggy stone walls. As is
the custom, you get to bed at
some point the next day.
DAY TWO
| You stand at the
gates of Jaffa, perfect
sambu-
sak
(
bread stuffedwith potato,
egg and cheese) from the leg-
endary
Abulafia Bakery
across
the street in hand, staring up
at the old Jaffa police station.
In its heyday the building was
somewhat notorious; Adolf
Eichmann was jailed here for
a time. Now it’s being turned
into a boutique hotel. So goes
Tel Aviv.
You continue on Yefet Street, past the
O oman clock tower and the rows of li le
neighborhood shops. At the top of the hill
is airy Kedumim Square and the
Old Jaffa
Visitors Center
,
where you learn the piv-
otal role Jaffa has played throughout the
centuries. BothNapoleonandSt. Peter had
defining moments in this very spot, and
Jonahmight have had one too if he hadn’t
beenswallowedbyawhaleonhiswayhere.
You descend the hill and wander
through Jaffa’s crooked alleyways,
occasionally catching glimpses of Tel Aviv’s
whitewashed sprawl. Not long ago thiswas
a seedy place, something the city sought
to remedy by offering studio space to art-
ists. It worked: Today, Jaffa is do ed with
independent galleries and is exceedingly
