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picked up something from the
mantel and handed it to me. “You best be
taking this lucky sheep bone with you if
you want safe passage across the island,
what with that fancy car you’ll be driving.”
“That fancy car” was none other than
the rare Ferrari 360 Challenge Stradale,
the street-legal version of the 360Modena,
Ferrari’s extensively reengineered track
car. Only 1,278 of themweremanufactured
between 1999 and 2005, making the Stra-
dale highly sought a er by collectors. The
island that I’d be traversing in it (under the
auspices of my lucky sheep bone) was the
Isle ofMan, famed for its indigenousManx
Loaghtan sheep, sneaky and malevolent
sprites and, most important, the Isle of
Man Tourist Trophy, one of the world’s
most prestigious motorcycle races, which
takes place every year from late May to
early June.
From my inn in Port St. Mary, at the
island’s southern tip, I had an easy 27-mile
trip via rental car to Ramsey, in the north,
along a road tacked to the serrated edge of
the island’s east coast. I was to meet Ma
Honeyse , my Ferrari man, in Ramsey—
specifically, at the start of the A3, whose
stretch from Ramsey to Kirk Michael
forms part of the race circuit.
While waiting for Honeysett at the
rendezvous, I contemplatedmy surround-
ings: standing stones le by the Vikings,
protruding from the earth like daggers;
Celtic forts that predate Christ; ancient
burial sites that have frowned
over the valleys for 4,000 years.
A distant rumbling dis-
turbed my train of thought.
It came again, closer: the
distinctive blatting made by
downshifting the gears of a
supercar. This was followed
by an epic wall of noise as
the Stradale broadsided around a bend
and came to an urgent stop beside me,
assuming an aggressive stance. Honey-
se stepped out and, a er the customary
exchange of pleasantries, gestured to the
driver’s seat. I obliged, folding myself in
and bolting down the shoulder harnesses,
the whole process carrying overtones of
space travel. I dug the lucky sheep bone
out of my pocket and placed it on the
center console.
As opposed to starting the engine, the
only function of the Stradale’s key is to
prime the electronics for ignition. Key
inserted, I prodded the prominent red
starter bu on on the console, and imme-
diately brought the V-8 to life. A er a noisy
throat-clearing, the engine quieted down
toapurposeful rumble andawaitedorders.
I tentatively touched the accelerator—
and took off with a velocity seldom seen
outside a Road Runner cartoon.
Despite the Stradale’s lean, carbonfiber–
muscledbodyanddelicate aluminumbone
structure, my plan to stretch its legs along
the mountainous road heading west to
Kirk Michael gave way to a bronco ride.
Approaching 6,000 rpm, its rumble became
a howl that grew in intensity until, at 8,000
rpm, my hearing began to distort. At this
point, I eyed the “race” bu on on the con-
sole, but Honeyse ’s glare dissuaded me.
“That,” he yelled, pointing accusingly at the
bu on, “will shake up your internal organs
and rearrange your brain.”
I decelerated to meet a sharp turn and
the car released a pulse-racing series of
what sounded like explosions, startling a
flock of peace-seeking tourists convened
at a pedestrian crossing. After a
HISTORICAL LURE
From left, rolling
countryside on the
Isle of Man; the castle-
like Tower of Refuge,
situated off the island’s
east coast and built in
1832 to provide shelter
to any mariners caught
in a storm
BOARDING PASS
Britain’s Isle of Man offers a
unique side trip for visitors to London, which United
serves with daily departures from six of its U.S.
hubs; the fabled island is even closer for travelers to
Manchester, served by daily nonstop flights through
New York/Newark andWashington Dulles.
Go to
united.com to see flight schedules and book your trip.
28
JUNE 2012
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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
CINDY-LOU DALE (LANDSCAPE); PATTY ATHERTON/ALAMY (TOWER OF REFUGE)
DISPATCHES
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ROADTRIP
“That,” he yelled, pointing to the “race” bu on
on the console, “will shake up your internal
organs and rearrange your brain.”