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Valencia and at the Guggenheim Bilbao,
this year-old avant-garde restaurant offers
top-flight local ingredients in adventur-
ous combinations: rabbit confit with dried
olives and edible flowers, for instance, and
a dessert made out of Tic Tacs. There’s a
garden in the back, Argentine jazz on the
speakers and a hip, young clientele every-
where you look.
After dinner, you hit
Ocho7ocho (
6
)
in Palermo Hollywood, a neighborhood
named for the film and TV studios and
Argentine celebrities who live there.
There’s no sign outside—as with many
bars inBuenosAires, there’s just adoor and
a doorman, who lets you into a lively room
with dark lighting and inventive cocktails.
Here, immersed in the a er-hours scene
of Palermo, you find a line from Borges is
running through your head. “Nothing is
built on stone,” he wrote. “All is built on
sand. Butwemust buildas if the sandwere
stone.” Despite its turbulent past, Buenos
Aires is built as if on stone, you think—a
confident and eclectic mix of influences
andhistoryworthyof adramaon the stage
of the Teatro Colón.
Hemispheres
contributor
JONMARCUS
admits that “Don’t Cry for Me, Argentina”
was running through his head the whole time
he was in Buenos Aires.
SPECIAL BLEND
Lunch and conversation
at Café Tortoni, the oldest coffee shop in
Buenos Aires; left, the colorful Caminito in
La Boca, birthplace of the tango
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
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