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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
•
JUNE 2012
31
AFTER THE WESTERN BISTRO,
the
burger joints and the old-fashioned
saloon, it was only ama er of time
before Fort Worth chef Tim Love,
food televisionmainstay and grand
pooh-bah of Texas cuisine, turned
backyard grilling into a five-star
affair. At his new al fresco restau-
rant, Woodshed—his fi h eatery in
the city—Love is introducing Tex-
ans to barbecue writ large: Exotic
woods. Smoked ice. Brisket-stuffed
piquillo peppers. Hickory-braised spelt served with a tiny, perfect quail.
Love calls the food “back-porch cooking,” but the real theme, of course, is
the heating element itself. “It’s all about the wood,” he says, standing by a
picnic table and surveying the logs stacked in every corner of his sprawling
backyard-inspired restaurant, which opens out onto Fort Worth’s Trinity
River throughbarn-sized garage doors. “We roast overwood, grill overwood,
evenbraise overwood,” he says. Andnot just anywood, it turns
ALL UP IN
HIS GRILL
At his newbackyard barbecue–
style restaurant, Texan TimLove
shows howmuchwood a top
chef would stock, if a top chef
could stockwood
BY JAY CHESHES
FOOD & DRINK
LABOR OF LOVE
Woodshed, top,
the new Fort Worth
grill mecca run by
chef Tim Love