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The beans are stored in large red
silos and the coffee roasters take
what they need from each one to
create the right blend. A bit of
Nairobi gets added to India, and
Brazil is mixed with Papua New
Guinea. The beans are then
poured into the roasters and
cooked for 15 minutes. When
cracking sounds emerge from
the drums, the filter coffee is
ready. Espresso coffee has to be
roasted for longer, until it cracks
twice. The (whole) beans are
then packed. “We always advise
our customers to grind the beans
freshly just before they make the
coffee,” says Andraschko. Now
that’s real coffee culture.
Andraschko Kaffeemanufaktur,
Köpenicker Straße 154, 10997 Berlin,
www.andraschkokaffee.com. You
can book tours of the roastery and
barista courses online. Andraschko
coffee is served at the Tim Raue
restaurant and Grill Royal
Let’s eat grandma!
BLUTWURST
Elsewhere Blutwurst may be
known as Tote Oma (“dead
grandma”) or Verkehrsunfall
(“road accident”); but in Berlin,
black pudding is treated with
honour and served in the best
restaurants.
In a provincial-looking
corner of Neukölln, in front of
an old-fashioned facade, hangs a
sign that says: “Fresh black
pudding today.” Here at
Blutwurstmanufaktur, butcher
Marcus Benser prepares fresh
Berlin black pudding every
morning. He makes at least a
tonne of it a week. Hard-up
locals used to buy blutwurst
HAND TO MOUTH
Numerous small specialist shops in the German capital preserve
traditional Berlin recipes. Come and visit the tiny kitchens where
you’ll find a host of handmade treats to tempt your taste buds
B E R L I N
Puppy fat
KALTER HUND
The oddly named Kalter Hund
(“cold dog”) is a bit of a departure
from all those organic
wholemeal biscuits you’ve been
health-consciously nibbling
lately. Jens Rose’s black and
white striped cakes are among
the most calorific and delicious
cakes in the world. They have the
thundering creamy, sugary,
chocolatey rush you remember
from your 10th birthday when
life was simple and sweet. No
wonder they’ve been selling like
hot cakes for five years now.
Rose and his wife make them in
their Friedrichshain bakery and
send them to customers all over
Germany; in the run-up to
Christmas, the couple can send
out 150 a week.
Kalter Hund may be
associated with the former DDR
(communist East Germany), but
it was probably invented in the
interwar period, says Rose. “It
was just dished up for longer in
the east,” explains the baker.
As a child, Rose was often
given Kalte Schnauze (“cold
snout”) as Kalter Hund is also
known, but he wasn’t a big fan: “I
found it far too sweet and heavy.”
So he’s adjusted his Kalter Hund
accordingly, replacing white
sugar with raw cane, and vanilla
sugar with real vanilla pods. The
rest remains unchanged: plenty
of cocoa butter, cocoa powder,
almonds, eggs and butter
shortbread, mixed together and
Blutwurst, eine Berliner Spezialität – einst
Essen für Arme, gilt heute als Delikatesse
Blutwurst has gone from working-class
staple to gourmet delicacy
transformed into 16 black and
white layers of biscuits and
chocolate cream. It’s very rich,
but a delicious slice of childhood
nostalgia has to be worth risking
the calories.
Kalter Hund Manufaktur Rose,
Ebertystrasse 49, 10249 Berlin,
www.kalter-hund-manufaktur.de.
Cakes from €11. The shop has no set
opening hours, so call in advance on
+49 (0)30 427 2044. Choose from 14
different types of Kalter Hund
Berlinmix
ANDRASCHKO COFFEE
WilhelmAndraschko doesn’t
knowwhere the quote comes
from, but he thinks there’s a ring
of truth in it: “The Viennese have
a distinctive coffee house
culture, but no coffee culture.”
In Berlin, he says, it’s the other
way round. Young Berliners are
surprisingly passionate about
good coffee. Which is why the
Vienna native, who learned his
trade in Italy, chose an old
factory site in Kreuzberg for his
coffee roastery. It’s surrounded
by architectural practices and
advertising agencies, the kind of
places where staff appreciate
good coffee.
Andraschko and his wife
Elisabeth frequently travel
around the world on a quest to
find the best highland coffee.
When they do, they have the
sacks of beans shipped to
Hamburg, where they collect
them and bring them to Berlin.
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