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T I M E O F F I N
…
COLOGNE
See
Cologne without its cathedral would be
like Paris minus the Eiffel Tower. This
dramatic structure – one of the largest
Gothic cathedrals in existence – has
become the icon of the city. It was made
a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.
Explore the cathedral and its treasure
chamber on your own or take an official
tour. You can even climb up the tower.
Situated directly next to the cathedral,
the
RÖMI SCH-GERMANI SCHE
MUSEUM’ S
collection includes a
Roman mosaic with illustrated scenes
from the life of Dionysus (220/230 AD)
and the reconstructed burial site of the
legionnaire Poblicius (40 AD). The
RAUTENSTRAUCH-JOEST-
MUSEUM
presents modern and
interactive exhibits with a focus on
ethnology, arranged thematically and
accessible to younger visitors.
If you’re planning to take a tour of the
Cologne, don’t miss the city’s famous
well, the
HE INZELMÄNNCHEN-
BRUNNE
, and the
GÜRZENICH
,
a large festival hall that was built by the
Gürzenich family between 1441 and 1447.
The
47 1 1 -STAMMHAUS
, located
in the Glockengasse, opposite the opera,
is the home of Eau de Cologne. The
Gothic revival building has since been
turned into a shop and museum.
If that’s all too much history for you, take
a relaxing
BOAT TRIP
on the Rhine to
the picturesque Siebengebirge hills, visit
the zoo, or take a tour of a
KÖLSCH
BREWERY
(booking is required). Or
treat yourself to some amazing views of
Cologne by crossing the river in a
55-year-old
CABLE CAR
.
Drink
The
STADTGARTEN
► Venloer
Straße 40, 50672 Köln, +49 (0)221
952994-0, www.stadtgarten.de ◄
hosts over 400 diverse cultural events
every year, including concerts,
contemporary literature readings and
talks. Every Saturday at 11pm, part of
the restaurant is transformed into a
stage, and guests are treated to jazz,
soul and funk concerts. The Stadtgarten
isn’t just a gig venue, it’s a leisure hub
that also houses a restaurant,
Biergarten
and garden restaurant.
Kaiser Wilhelm II and his wife Auguste
Victoria graced the
ALTE
WARTESAAL
► Johannisstrasse
11, 50668 Köln, +49 (0)221 912 885-0,
www.wartesaal.de ◄
when they
visited the Rhenish-Prussian metropolis.
The historic building, located directly
next to the cathedral, is now a popular
bar, restaurant and event location for
club nights and the WDR TV cabaret
show Mitternachtsspitzen.
If you fancy something hipper, try the
HALLMACKENREUTHER
►
Brüsseler Platz 9, 50674 Köln-
Belgisches Viertel, +49 (0)221 517970
◄
. Taking its name from legendary
German comedian Loriot’s famous
bed-buying sketch, this bar-cum-
restaurant is decked out in stylish retro
1950s furnishings and attracts a
fashionable young crowd.
The Cologne locals are a cheerful lot.
They’re good for a laugh, and not just
during Karneval. German speakers can
give their laughter muscles a workout at
the historic
MI LLOWITSCH
THEATER
► Aachener Strasse 5,
50674 Köln, +49 (0)221 2727370,
www.millowitsch.de ◄
which stages
comedy shows.
Sleep
The
HOTEL IM WASSERTURM
► Kaygasse 2, 50676 Köln, +49 (0)221
20080, www.hotel-im-wasserturm.
de ◄
is housed in a 140-year-old
building that was formerly one of
Europe’s largest water towers. The
five-star luxury hotel opened its doors
in 1990, and has since become a
celebrity favourite – fashion designer
Wolfgang Joop refers to it as ‘a home
from home’ and Madonna is also said
to be a fan.
HOTEL FLANDRI SCHER HOF
► Flandrische Straße 3-11, 50674,
Köln, +49 (0)221 20360, www.
flandrischerhof.de ◄
is located in the
fashionable Belgian quarter in the
centre of town. The privately run
three-star hotel offers 190 rooms in
four categories, including a special
luxury suite, and direct access to all the
best shops, restaurants and local
attractions.
ART ’OTEL COLOGNE
►
Holzmarkt 4, 50676 Köln, +49 (0)221
801030, www.artotels.de/
cologne-hotel-de-50676/gercoart ◄
offers 218 rooms with design inspired
by the Korean artist SEO, as well as a
cocktail bar, Pan-Asian restaurant
and a terrace boasting fabulous views
across the Rhine.
Visitors on a more modest budget can
opt for the
WELTEMPFÄNGER
HOSTEL & CAFÉ
► Venloer Straße
196, 50823 Köln-Ehrenfeld, +49
(0)221 9957 9957, www.koeln-hostel.
de ◄
. It’s popular with backpackers and
offers rooms with bunk beds, which
sleep one to six, as well as a communal
kitchen.
Eat
It’s an easy mistake to make. Order a
Halve Hahn
(which translates as ‘half a
chicken’) in Cologne and you might be
surprised when the
Köbes
(waiter) brings
you a rye bread roll with Dutch cheese
and onions rather than a roasted bird. The
Hahn is one of the many misleadingly
named local staples eaten in the
cathedral city on the Rhine. Another is
Kölsche Kaviar, which actually consists of
very unfishy black pudding served with a
rye bread roll and onions.
The best way to sample these Rhenish
specialities is in the authentic
surroundings of one of the city’s many
breweries. A good place to start is the
MALZMÜHLE
► Heumarkt 6,
50667 Köln, +49 (0)221 210117, www.
malzmuehle.de ◄
or
PÄFFGEN
►
Friesenstraße 64-66, 50670 Köln,
+49 (0)221 135461, www.paeffgen-
koelsch.de ◄
These kinds of venues are 10 a penny.
The fare is inventive but can be quite
heavy. If you’re feeling particularly
peckish, try some Rhenish
Sauerbraten
(marinated beef) washed down with a
Kölsch
– pale, top-fermented lager, which
is traditionally served in 0.2-litre glasses.
The cuisine isn’t from Cologne but the
locals still love the
GREAT WALL
►
Komödienstraße 37, 50667 Köln,
+49 (0)221 2774712, www.
greatwallcologne.de ◄
. The Chinese
restaurant also attracts a loyal Asian
clientele, which is always a good sign.
For fine dining, try
TAKU
► at the
Excelsior Hotel Ernst, Trankgasse 1-5,
50667 Köln, +49 (0)221 2701, www.
excelsiorhotelernst.com ◄
. The
restaurant is situated directly opposite
the cathedral, and specialises in
Pan-Asian cuisine.