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D
ubrovnikmayno longer
be thebargaindestination
it once was, but what this
town on the southernDalmatian
coast has lost in affordability it
has gained in service and overall
standards. Andwhile it’s true that
the old town, a pedestrianised
UNESCOWorldHeritage site,
sees coachloads of cruise-liner
tourists descend almost hourly
on its streets, by venturing a
little way along the ancient city
walls and into the labyrinthine
alleyways, you can easily avoid
the crowds.
The best time to visit
Dubrovnik is late summer,
when the crystal-clear seawater
– Europe’s cleanest – is still
pleasantly warm and the
evenings are still balmy. The
city’s buildings and
cobblestones are highly
polished, giving it a museum-
like feel. Dubrovnik, from 1358
to 1808 the Republic of Ragusa,
an independent city-state, has
been a cultural mecca and
trading centre for centuries.
In keeping with Dubrovnik’s
status as a major cultural centre,
in late summer the city hosts a
wide variety of concerts. Among
these is the highly regarded
Julian Rachlin & Friends
Chamber Music Festival, now in
its 12th year, which takes place
from6 to 8 September
(www.
rachlinandfriends.com)
. Each
year, Lithuanian-born violinist
Rachlin invites big names from
the international chamber
D U B R O V N I K
HITTING ALL THE RIGHT NOTES
Dubrovnik is a magnet for lovers of historic architecture and beautiful
beaches. But head for the Pearl of the Adriatic in late summer and you’ll
also discover some great music
music scene to perform at the
festival. This year’s all-star cast
includes Radek Baborák, Boris
Brovtsyn, Itamar Golan and
opera singers Thomas Hampson
and Angelika Kirchschlager.
The concerts are held in the
grand surroundings of the
Rector’s Palace in the heart of
the Old Town. The open-air
courtyard provides an
impressive backdrop for this
intimate event. Musicians and
audience rub shoulders as
classical sounds fills the starry
night sky, evoking the past
glories of the Ragusa Empire.
Last summer, the Belgrade
Philharmonic Orchestra made
its debut appearance at the
festival, reflecting the new
conciliatory and forward-
looking mood in the Balkans. At
the Concert inWhite, guests and
musicians dress – yes, you
guessed it – in white, and the
whole city gets caught up in the
spirit of the event. Later on,
Dubrovnik’s squares are filled
with revellers dressed from head
to toe in white, enjoying a post-
concert drink.
Jazz enthusiasts should head
to the Troubadour (Bunićeva
Poljana 2). The bar’s owner holds
impromptu jams outside,
playing the cello and singing
while his friends accompany
him on piano and trumpet.
When all the seats in the narrow
alleyway by the cathedral are
taken, the crowds spill over into
Das Dominikaner Kloster
Dubrovnik’s Dominican monastery
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