WORDS
SIMON KURS, LIZ GRANIRER
PRICES ARE PER PERSON WITHOUT DRINKS
1 0 5
Sra Bua
Berlin
|
Asian fusion
|
€68
tim raue’s previous
Asian-inspired
restaurant picked up two Michelin stars,
his eponymous eatery has been awarded
an astonishing 19 points by the
Gault &
Millau
gourmet guide, and he’s a judge on
Germany’s
Master Chef
. To put it simply,
his Sra Bua collaboration with Hotel Adlon
Kempinski shouldn’t disappoint.
And, fortunately, it doesn’t. To get a real
taste try the Ruam Gan menu, consisting
of six starters, four mains, three side
dishes and three desserts. The amuse
bouche – yellow radish with Japanese
mustard sauce and cold ginger tea, and
caramelised chilli cashew nuts – set the
bar high, not that Raue struggles to hit it.
Scallop ceviche in elderflower and citrus
dressing has a wonderful gingery
sweetness, while a deeply flavoured BBQ
pork belly is so beautifully cooked, the fat
melts like butter in the mouth. Save room
for dessert too: the sweet-potato foam cake
and banana with hazelnut cream confirms
you’re in the presence of a true master.
Hotel Adlon Kempinski, 77 Unter den
Linden, +49 (0)30 22610,
kempinski.com
Ametsa with Arzak
Instruction
London
|
Modern Spanish
|
€50
it’s tough being
a hotel restaurant. With the kitchen busy from
breakfast on, fine dining can often take a back seat. Not so for
Ametsa with Arzak Instruction, the rather unwieldily named
dining room of the Halkin in swish Belgravia.
The ‘instruction’ part refers to the fact that, earlier this year,
Juan Mari Arzak and his daughter Elena, of the Michelin-starred
Arzak in San Sebastian, were taken on as chef consultants.
Though not ever-present, their influence is unmistakable, from
the staff – handpicked in Spain – to the modern Basque menu.
Initial reviews were mixed, but clearly something’s been
done since – a fact confirmed by the recent Michelin star. On a
busy tasting menu, a king prawn and spider crab dish stands
out. Sitting in creamy sweet-corn chowder, the delicate seafood
is topped with a tangle of crispy noodles that add real bite.
Elsewhere, perfectly pink tuna in a punchy caper sauce is a
serious flavour combo. Though full by desert, diners will need
iron will to refuse desserts, such as a headily spiced custard
with pineapple ice cream. Hotel or not, this place is delicious.
The Halkin by COMO, Halkin Street, + 44 (0)20 7333 1234,
comohotels.com
R E S T A U R A N T
R E V I E W S
V I E W P O I N T S
01
The Belgravia-based
restaurant is now a
dining destination
02
Piedras Lunares
(moon rocks), frozen
Cointreau and orange
covered in chocolate
02
01
