Hvar Adventure
organises one-day
sea kayaking trips
around the Pakleni
islets, with stops to
swim and snorkel, as
well as half-day
sailing trips in the
company of an
experienced skipper
who can teach you the basics of yachting. Or sail further
afield with a two-day trip around the island of Vis or
take an even longer tour, which might include the larger
islands of Šolta and Brač.
Island hopping in Dalmatia is slightly easier than in
Greece, as the islands lie closer together and are served
by one main ferry company, the state-run Jadrolinija
(
jadrolinija.hr
).
Vis, Croatia’s most far-flung inhabited
island, was a Yugoslav naval base during the Tito era and
remained closed to foreigners until 1989. Its rugged
landscapes have escaped modern development, and its
vineyards produce the highly esteemed white Vugava
and the red Plavac, which are predominantly organic.
Šolta is often forgotten, but if you like hiking, it’s criss-
crossed by donkey paths, and the south coast has some
amazing pebble coves backed by steep cliffs, accessible
only by boat. It’s also known for its excellent olive oil,
which you can taste at the Olynthia oil mill (
olynthia.hr
).
There’s only one notable hotel on Šolta, but it’s pretty
impressive: the sumptuous 18th–century Martinis
Marchi (
martinis-marchi.com
)
in Maslinica, which has
six luxurious suites, a restaurant and a small marina.
Finally, if you’re looking for a total escape, how about
sleeping in a lighthouse? Plovput (
lighthouses-croatia.
com
)
manages a dozen or so restored ones along the
coast, several on remote, uninhabited islets and some on
little more than a rocky outcrop. Generally, they have
one or two apartments sleeping two to eight, with
electricity, running water, TV and a kitchen, but you’re
advised to bring food and other provisions. According to
Plovput’s Hrvoje Mandekić: “All of them offer a unique
experience of seclusion and the spirit of 19th-century
architecture combined with sun and crystal-clear sea.”
Sounds rather idyllic, don't you think?
SAIL AWAY
10
The Martinis Marchi
11
Lastovo is one of the
islands closed to
visitors until 1990
12
Struga lighthouse, on
Lastovo, contains four
holiday flats
IF YOU KNOWWHERE TO GO,
YOU CAN FIND ‘SECRET’ EMPTY
BEACHES, EVEN IN AUGUST
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10
12
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