trees, cacti, agaves and mimosa. Still in the same family
after three generations, it’s now run by Dagmar
Meneghello, a charismatic retired journalist and avid
patron of contemporary Croatian art, who often wears
striking kaftans. She’s truly devoted to the place, which
is probably why even some of the more eccentric details
fit in just right.
There are seven stone villas and six bungalows for
rent, all painted in deep, vibrant colours and decorated
with pieces fromDagmar’s quirky art collection – but,
even if you don't decide to stay, it’s well worth the
taxi-boat ride fromHvar Town just to have lunch or a
candlelit dinner at the amazing Palmižana restaurant.
Set on a terrace with deep red walls decorated with
driftwood sculptures and bold, modern canvases, it
serves traditional Dalmatian dishes prepared with
creative flare. Everything is totally authentic and made
from fresh, seasonal ingredients bursting with flavour.
Try the local speciality
Hvarska gregada
(
a delicious fish
casserole made from scorpion fish and lobster, with
potatoes and fresh herbs), brought to the table in a big
black pot. Many sailing boats put down anchor in the
nearby bay just to eat here, and previous guests include
Bernie Ecclestone and John Malkovich. There are also
two small pebble beaches: apparently, the name
Palmižana comes from
spalmare
–
meaning to spread in
Italian – as this is where wooden boats were pulled out of
the water and coated with resin.
Jerolim, the islet nearest to Hvar Town, is even more
relaxing, and a perfect choice for a peaceful, lazy day
with minimal distractions. I’ve spent many a blissful
afternoon here, and you can walk around and swim
completely naked, as naturism is widely tolerated in
Croatia. Bathing nude is a strangely exhilarating and
liberating experience – somehow it’s easier to reconnect
with the elements when you have nothing on – and you’ll
also finally get that all-over tan. The only place you need
to don some clothes – swimwear will do – is at the
informal Amo bar-restaurant (
veneranda.hr
),
where
you’ll find a glorious shady terrace with coloured
beanbags and hammocks.
LIFE'S A BEACH
05
Fresh fish is a gift for
Hvar chefs and diners
06
Out on the islands
you can enjoy your
own private bay
07
The water is so clear
you can see to 50m
08
The Palmižana
restaurant doubles as
an art gallery
09
Dagmar Meneghello,
Palmižana's owner
06
05
07
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S E C R E T I S L A N D S
S P L I T
